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The aftermarket PCV that I got http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/2000/subaru/legacy/air_intake/pcv_valve.html doesn't fit my Sube. Here's the one that's in there now.http://img411.imageshack.us/img411/8316/img0007jdx.jpg and http://img142.imageshack.us/img142/5647/img0015e.jpg The receptacle into which the valve is screwed has a hole in the bottom of it to accomodate the long end. http://img81.imageshack.us/img81/9550/img0012vhm.jpg The aftermarket one won't screw in all the way because of the plate in the bottom of the receptacle where the hole is. Also, the cap with the wire on it can't fit over the top of the aftermarket valve. The stealership wants $53 for an oem valve. I'd just hate to pay such a rip-off price for one. Replacement valves at online Subaru parts places are going for $5-$9. My guess is that they won't fit my Sube either. Possibly there are several different PCVs for the 2000 Subes. Which one is correct depends on the Sube's VIN. Where do I go from here.? The valve that's on my Sube now appears clean as a whistle and the engine is still running smoothly with plenty of power and no drop in gas mileage. It's likely the original one and has 60k miles on it. How long can it last before I experience problems?

I wanna replace the fuel filter on my 2000 Legacy wagon but am unable to disconnect the fuel hose ends from the fuel filter tubes;; they just won't budge. Yes, of course, I loosened the clamps before attempting to disconnect the filter. Is there an easy way or correct procedure for doing so? Also, the PCV valve that I ordered(from PartsGeek.com) http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/2000/subaru/legacy/air_intake/pcv_valve.html looks quite different from the one that's on there now. Anyone know if it's usable(compatible)? It doesn't appear to be. Theoriginal one that's there now has an assembly that protrudes from the top end onto which the connector(sensor?) fits. The assembly pulls right out of the valve body. FYI, I just hate buying parts from the stealership because of their rip-off prices.

Well thankfully, my punctured tire was repairable. Had I been required to purchase 4 new tires because of one irrepairable tire, I would have had strong homicidal feelings:mad: toward the designers of AWD. For an AWD car owner to be forced to purchase three new tires because of one irregularly circumferenced replacement (in comparison to the other three) is obscene and outrageous. Even having to take a new tire to a speed shop to be shaved down to the circumference of the others is a bit much. I've got 4 Yokohama Avid v series tires on my Sube that cost me nearly $500, and have only 19k miles on them. There's still plenty of tread left. Having to replace them all at this point would have been totally unacceptable. Why can't Subaru( or anyone else) design an AWD system that compensates for tires that are not of near equal circumference? This issue makes AWD vehicles rather owner unfriendly, at least in this one regard. God, I'm really bummed out by this matter.

So then, would less than 3/32" tread depth difference between all the tires be equal to less than 1/4" tire circumference difference between them. Going by tread depth is less of a hassle than measuring tire circumferences.

One of my Sube's tires went flat. If the tire can't be repaired, under what circumstances do all four tires need to be replaced? I've forgotten the drill.

True, there are folks who say that they've always used Frams without problems but since there are many other filter brands with good reputations why take the risk with Fram. Fram quality is suspect with reports of inferior construction materials used i.e.cardboard end plates, thin anti drainback valves that stick in an open position. I've always used Red Line synthetic motor oil (5/40) changing it at 10k miles and Subaru oem filters or NAPA Gold, changing them at 5k miles. I've now got several Nippon Denso filters that i'll be using.

As most of us are no doubt aware of, the current Sube oil filters are noticeably smaller than the previous ones. This is true for the aftermarket filters as well. I just got a couple of Denso filters and am amazed at how much smaller they are. Denso likely manufactures the oem filters for Subaru; they supply most of the Japanese car manufacturers as far as I can tell. Does anyone know if the smaller ones have as much filter element material as the older ones? Maybe current state of the art filter technology allows for higher performance in a smaller package? Whaddya think?

Magnecors look really good. They appear to be available for $100-$120 a set. Ideal for one who puts lots of miles on their vehicle and wants maximum performance. Not worthwhile for me since I travel out of the country frequently and don't get to put too many miles on my Sube. If time is important, there's nothing like having a good, reliable competent shop do needed work on one's car. Saves one's sanity as well!

A Sube stealership quoted me about $70 for a set of wires. I can get NGK wires for $42, and NGKs are hardly el cheapos or of compromised quality. I hate and resent being gouged by stealership parts depts. True, I can order lower priced oem parts on-line from a Sube parts place but too often the shipping charge cancels out the savings of lower prices. Rooster 2 is happy with the Bosch wires that he installed so aftermarket does not necessarily mean problems. I may still go for the NGKs unless I hear of folks having problems with them installed on their Subes.

Well, if the boxed set is aftermarket and has Subaru's name and part number on the box, then it must meet OEM standards, no? And if the single wires are not manufactured by Subaru themselves, then they have to be, in fact, aftermarket. So by the strictest definition, then, there's no such thing as OEM wires. OEM wires are manufactured by a third party.... NGK or Denso, most likely. So NGK or Denso labled wires should be just fine to use, then.

I would assume, possibly wrongly (?), that Sube OEM wires are made in Japan by either NGK or Denso, both manufacturers of quality products and suppliers to Japanese car makers. And if boxed sets prefixed SOA are , in fact,relabled aftermarkets, then they should, of course, conform to Subaru's standards, no? So, OEM wires ARE actually aftermarkets since Subaru likely does not manufacture their own ignition parts (nor many other parts used on Subes), right?

NGK wires are fine to use, yes or no? 2000 Legacy 2.5L

The crush type drain plug washers that are generally used aren't readily available around here. Is there any problem using those flat ones instead? Leakage, for example.

Thanks for the info, guys. I think that I'll wait for signs of deteriorating engine performance before dealing with the plug change. Then, maybe have someone who's experienced in doing plug changes on a Subaru 2.5L engine do it. Poor clearance between fender and heads making for difficult plug access? Possibly loosening motor mounts and raising side of engine just to change spark plugs? Screw that!!! On most cars, plug changes are pretty simple and straightforward but changing plugs on a Sube 2.5L seems like an extremely unfriendly do-it-yourself Subaru owner process:mad:. Sounds like changing plugs on a Sube's 2.5L engine is good for a vicious migraine headache:eek:....I've had my share of those and don't need any more of them.

My 2000 Legacy's Plugs now have 30k miles on them, There are no performance issues yet. Engine runs just fine. How many miles beyond 30k can I anticipate the plugs(NGK copper) going without showing performance issues. When changing the plugs, what problem areas should I be prepared for? What socket extensions will I need to access the plugs and make plug changing easiest? Are the NGK G-Power Platinum Alloy Plugs (BKR6EGP) Good plugs to use? They're resistor plugs, right?

Is there any problem (like oil leakage) using a flat oil pan drain plug washer instead of a crush type washer?

My 2000 Legacy wagon's got a small dent in a front fender above the wheel. One can't get at it because there's a shroud above the wheel preventing access to the fender's underside where the dent is. Is that shroud easily removable? I want to have one of those mobile paintless body panel repair dudes come by and work the dent out.

Thanks, Porcupine, or the detailed info. At what mileage intervals is it good to replace the accessory belts. They don't last indefinitely, do they?( I think that Subaru says to inspect them at various service intervals, nothing about replacing them). Is accessing the pulleys and replacing the belts very difficult?

Forgive the ignorance but on a 2000 2.5L engine, are the alternator and A/C compressor run off the timing belt? I didn't notice individual belts for the Alt. or a/c comp. Is it worthwhile going with platinum spark plugs or not? Are non platinum NKG plugs good for 30k miles?

I checked my Sube's engine oil level, engine cold and car on level ground. Oil level was about 1/2 " above dipstick hole, the mark for hot oil. Checked several more times to be sure. Yup, about 1/2" above hole. Checked again later several times with car on level ground, after driving 20 miles and engine has heated up. Now, the oil level is about 3/8" BELOW dipstick hole. What's going on here??? It's impossible for me to get an accurate reading of the engine oil level. It's always been an issue. 2000 Legacy GT wagon-MT

The side vinyl molding strip/skirt, below the driver side doors, on my 2000 Legacy GT wagon were pulled off of their clips and is essentially secured by the clip at the rear, just in front of the rear wheel. The moulding is now hanging down a bit at the front. Should the entire moulding pull off completely from the clip at the rear that's holding it to the car. I tried pulling it off but it doesn't seem to budge. Don't want to risk breaking the moulding. Is there any trick to replacing the strip once I get some replacement clips/fasteners?

It's good to scrub the rear window with a "Comet" like cleaner and water(No, it won't scratch the glass) from time to time. Same with the windscreen. Accumulated road grime needs to come off. But replacing the wiper blades every few months is good practice for maintaining non-streaking, quiet wiper sweeps. The blade material does wear out and degrade over several months. Only the later model Subes were equipped with rear wiper delay. Mine, a 2000 doesn't have that feature.

Dunno, but I kinda think that 5/20w might not offer really good protection against wear, certainly not in hot summer conditions. I use a high quality full synthetic oil...5/40 year round in my 2000 Legacy. Don't get much in the way of sub zero winters in my neck of the woods. 5/40 synthetic should work well down to zeroºtemps and maybe a bit below that, and in above 100º F summer temps 5/40 works well.