Aja1

What are some reasons that would cause a radiator to be replaced at 60,000 miles? Are there other things I should be wary of becuase of it? Thanks! Aja1

Took the car in to the shop...not the head gasket. They said it was an air bubble in the coolant that had to be bled out. Not sure where all the coolant went, but they fixed for free. They also said no damage was done by the overheating. Does this sound reasonable? -Ben

Thanks for the diagnosis. I have obviously read all about the head gasket issues with Subes, but I'm not sure I have ever seen what it costs to fix such a thing...what can I expect? Anything else I should know going into this ordeal? Thanks

Update: Checked the coolant level at lunch...it was at minimum level. Filled it up and turned the car on...lots of bubbles...violent bubbles. I'm not real familiar with the way the radiator works, so does this sound like the bubbles I should be concerned about? Thanks, Ben

It was a routine 75,000 mile service, plus the injectors. They surely changed the fluids. We'll try the start the engine with cap off procedure to see if we have bubbles. What you speak of is the HG, yes?

I took my 2001 Outback Limited into the shop last week as it exhibited these symptoms: -very noticeable shaking after start-up -check engine light was on The dealer said it was the fuel injector, which they fixed and all seemed OK for 3 days or so. Drove 200 miles or so for Thanksgiving, with no problems. Then yesterday the heat wouldn’t work, the temp gauge went way up and when I checked the coolant it was almost empty. I filled up the coolant and all seems to be OK now, heat works and temp gauge is OK. There doesn’t seem to be a noticeable leak under the car, but I’ll check again tonight. Is this just a case of several coincidences and all should be OK, or is there something else going on here? Thanks! Ben

From what I have heard the employee pricing is always available to the shrewd buyer...although I cannot attest to this...yet. I am a Subaru guy through and through, but I also prefer the looks to the Saab's version...the front end especially...but that is just me. Thanks for the input. Ben

My wife has confessed that she loves the Saab 9-2x and that she doesn't like the Imprezza. What future issues will I have if she gets the Saabaru assuming it won't be offered much longer as GM no longer has any stake in Subaru? Will Subaru dealers be able to service it? I would think internal parts would be less of an issue than cosmetic stuff. Any thoughts? Thanks, Ben

oil has been changed religiously, timning belt was changed once, on schedule so another is probably coming due. The smoke comes from under the car, not the tail pipe. The brakes are new, the suspension is not. The engine runs quite well, all engine seals were replaced a couple years ago...your numbers fit with what I thought i might be able to get...with the new car donation rules, selling may be a better option for me. Thanks, Ben

On what I might be able to sell this vehicle for? 1996 Subaru 2.5GT wagon 182,000 miles -needs transmission work, possibly replacement -has bad clutch pack problem -passanger side has minor cosmetic damage -presently runs, but transmission leaks oil which causes lots of smoke IMO this car would be best suited for parts, but I'm interested in any opinions. Thanks, Ben I live in Newton, MA

I'm assuming new belts includes the timing belt...if so how "new", if not, add $300 to replace it.

You all helped me diagnose an inhibitor switch issue...now I think I know why it isn't working...when I pull the shifter out of park and into any gear it hardly moves, like I really have to pull hard and then it really doesn't diffinitively click into gear...although it does drive without issue. It does not get any better after driving for a while either. Thoughts? This seems like it could be a $$$ problem.. Thanks, Ben

You guys are brilliant! As always I'm impressed with the knowlege around here and it has saved me $$...at least for now!

I was afraid of cracking my "wood" shifter bezel It was about 10 degrees when I did it...but you are correct, technically you don't have to do steps 1 and 2. Any idea what the cost is to replace an inhibitor switch?

To disengage the shift lock, there are 2 screws just under the center console bin, take them out, remove the E-brake cover, then pop off the plastic piece that surrounds the shifter, underneath is a small hole that you insert a philips screwdrive and push, it allows the shifter to come out of park. Takes 2 minutes to do...easy as pie.