Aja1

What are some reasons that would cause a radiator to be replaced at 60,000 miles? Are there other things I should be wary of becuase of it? Thanks! Aja1

Took the car in to the shop...not the head gasket. They said it was an air bubble in the coolant that had to be bled out. Not sure where all the coolant went, but they fixed for free. They also said no damage was done by the overheating. Does this sound reasonable? -Ben

Thanks for the diagnosis. I have obviously read all about the head gasket issues with Subes, but I'm not sure I have ever seen what it costs to fix such a thing...what can I expect? Anything else I should know going into this ordeal? Thanks

Update: Checked the coolant level at lunch...it was at minimum level. Filled it up and turned the car on...lots of bubbles...violent bubbles. I'm not real familiar with the way the radiator works, so does this sound like the bubbles I should be concerned about? Thanks, Ben

It was a routine 75,000 mile service, plus the injectors. They surely changed the fluids. We'll try the start the engine with cap off procedure to see if we have bubbles. What you speak of is the HG, yes?

I took my 2001 Outback Limited into the shop last week as it exhibited these symptoms: -very noticeable shaking after start-up -check engine light was on The dealer said it was the fuel injector, which they fixed and all seemed OK for 3 days or so. Drove 200 miles or so for Thanksgiving, with no problems. Then yesterday the heat wouldn’t work, the temp gauge went way up and when I checked the coolant it was almost empty. I filled up the coolant and all seems to be OK now, heat works and temp gauge is OK. There doesn’t seem to be a noticeable leak under the car, but I’ll check again tonight. Is this just a case of several coincidences and all should be OK, or is there something else going on here? Thanks! Ben

From what I have heard the employee pricing is always available to the shrewd buyer...although I cannot attest to this...yet. I am a Subaru guy through and through, but I also prefer the looks to the Saab's version...the front end especially...but that is just me. Thanks for the input. Ben

My wife has confessed that she loves the Saab 9-2x and that she doesn't like the Imprezza. What future issues will I have if she gets the Saabaru assuming it won't be offered much longer as GM no longer has any stake in Subaru? Will Subaru dealers be able to service it? I would think internal parts would be less of an issue than cosmetic stuff. Any thoughts? Thanks, Ben

oil has been changed religiously, timning belt was changed once, on schedule so another is probably coming due. The smoke comes from under the car, not the tail pipe. The brakes are new, the suspension is not. The engine runs quite well, all engine seals were replaced a couple years ago...your numbers fit with what I thought i might be able to get...with the new car donation rules, selling may be a better option for me. Thanks, Ben

On what I might be able to sell this vehicle for? 1996 Subaru 2.5GT wagon 182,000 miles -needs transmission work, possibly replacement -has bad clutch pack problem -passanger side has minor cosmetic damage -presently runs, but transmission leaks oil which causes lots of smoke IMO this car would be best suited for parts, but I'm interested in any opinions. Thanks, Ben I live in Newton, MA

I'm assuming new belts includes the timing belt...if so how "new", if not, add $300 to replace it.

You all helped me diagnose an inhibitor switch issue...now I think I know why it isn't working...when I pull the shifter out of park and into any gear it hardly moves, like I really have to pull hard and then it really doesn't diffinitively click into gear...although it does drive without issue. It does not get any better after driving for a while either. Thoughts? This seems like it could be a $$$ problem.. Thanks, Ben

You guys are brilliant! As always I'm impressed with the knowlege around here and it has saved me $$...at least for now!

I was afraid of cracking my "wood" shifter bezel It was about 10 degrees when I did it...but you are correct, technically you don't have to do steps 1 and 2. Any idea what the cost is to replace an inhibitor switch?

To disengage the shift lock, there are 2 screws just under the center console bin, take them out, remove the E-brake cover, then pop off the plastic piece that surrounds the shifter, underneath is a small hole that you insert a philips screwdrive and push, it allows the shifter to come out of park. Takes 2 minutes to do...easy as pie.

Tremendous info from you smart people! I disengaged the shift lock, and sure enough she started right up. I let it run for a while, then shut it off, put it in park and tried to start it again...and it was as if there was never a problem! Should I live with this issue knoiwing that worst case I have to disengage the shift lock to start it? I can live with that for a while. If I do decide to get this fixed is it expensive (inhibitor switch)? Thanks to all, Ben

Thanks for the input. I'll try starting it in neutral...I'll have to disengage the shift lock anyway to get it towed won't I? If it is one of these repairs (inhibitor switch, safety switch) ...are they expensive? Thanks, again.

Any input on this one is greatly appreciated! Turn the key, dash lights up, all seems normal, BUT no start...no noise, no nothing. The battery is new and I tried jumping it (plus all elec. accessories work fine). Also, even with the key in the "on" positon I can't disengage the shifter from P...what does this mean? Oh, the car is a 96 GT wgn, 180K. All worked fine until yesterday when this started. Can I narrow it down to things like: starter? Fuse (although I checked most if not all of these)? Asterisk: I bought this car used in 1998, it came with a security system, one that disengaged the engine (not an alarm). I used it for a while, but then the remotes batteries went dead and I quit using it. So for the past 2-3 years I haven't used it and it was as if it wasn't installed. The AAA guy thought it might be the problem, but it seems strange that out of the blue it would engage and wouldn't be able to be disengaged using gher manual switch in the footwell (Which I tried). I also tried disconnecting and reconnecting the battery. Help!! Thanks, Ben

What do you mean plugs into my car? Do I need to take apart the center console?

I'd like to buy a new CD player head unit for my 96 GT wagon. Is there a site or thread (I searched and couldn't find anything) that gives detailed instructions on how to do it? Also, does buying a Panasonic make it any easier with connections (OEM radio is a Panasonic). My car is an auto tranny and has the electric antenna. Is this an easy project? do I need to do any soldering? Thanks! Aja1

I've got a 96 GT wagon that enjoys premium fuel too. I also have to add at least 1 quart of oil between changes. However, I have 175K and still going strong (the engine that is, other things not so much). 1996 was the first year of the 2.5 and I think they have corrected some of the problems we are having including the premium requirement (later 2.5's don't require), poor engine seals and gaskets. As for adding oil, I think we should probably consider ourselves lucky that it is all we have to do between oil changes, adding 1-2 quarts is quite common and doesn't necessarily speak to other problems. If there aren't leaks underneath the engine I wouldn't sweat it. I had to have all the seals replaced which wasn't great, but it has helped with the oil consumption. Hope that sheds some light. Aja1

I've got a 96 GT wagon spec'd out the same it sounds like. Here are the problems I've had - I don't know enough about cars to know if any of this can be handled in a preventative manner, but maybe. The car has been great to me all-in-all. -engine seals -CV joints -several cam sensors and 02 sensors -steering rack (leaky) I do have the transmission issue, but it is my own fault for running different sized tires for a long time. It is a fun car and I'm disheartened that you on;y paid $4400 for your with 92K, as I was hoping to get $3,000 for mine with 175K, but I doubt that is possible. What color is yours? I have green and still like the color. Good luck! Aja1

I've got a 96 GT wagon spec'd out the same it sounds like. Here are the problems I've had - I don't know enough about cars to know if any of this can be handled in a preventative manner, but maybe. The car has been great to me all-in-all. -engine seals -CV joints -several cam sensors and 02 sensors -steering rack (leaky) I do have the transmission issue, but it is my own fault for running different sized tires for a long time. It is a fun car and I'm disheartened that you on;y paid $4400 for your with 92K, as I was hoping to get $3,000 for mine with 175K, but I doubt that is possible. What color is yours? I have green and still like the color. Good luck! Aja1

I'll sell you a new mast assembly for cheap...I bought one thinking I could do it myself and got frustrated, then I boutha whole new pwr antenna on ebay so I have the new mast assembly sitting in a box. Let me know if you want it...$30.00. Ben

I have a 1996 Legacy GT wagon with 175K. It has these ailments: -clutch pack binding transmission -slightly leaky steering rack -worn brakes -rusted tailgate handle -check engine light on (don't know diagnosis) This is now a second car (kept for winter use this year). The question is with the above afflictions, can I get another year or 2 out of it? It isn't a daily driver anymore, and once the spring comes it will be driven even less. Should I: -keep it and not fix anything -sell it now -fix a coulle things to keep it alive and use it only during the winter My primary driver is not good in snow nor has any cargo space so this is an ideal auxiliary car if it is working. Any advice, thoughts or similar situations? Thanks, Ben