gbb1277

Ok I wanted to give everyone a followup. The car finaly runs good again. The main cause was a bad coil. If cold the coil resistance was inspec but higher than a new coil and when hot it went way high out of spec which must have been why it ran good for a while when it was cold. Also there was a flaw in the wiring to my IAT sensor which may have contributed to the problem. I have all OEM parts now except plugs are Bosh OEM equivalents but I am changesing them out with NGKs from the dealer as soon as I can. I thank eveyone for there input you were all a great help.

Well I finnaly was able to get a multimeter and check coil resistance. Assumeing I did it correctly I found primary coil resistance to be in the megaohms. I am going to check it again in the morning to see if it gets lower when its cold which it should. So all this agrivation ans parts replaceing may finaly come to an end. Oh and I found out the previous own aparently didnt want to buy a new pcv valve and replaced it with a open pipe fitting.

Well I changes the wires to oem subaru wires. It seems to run better but still misses quite a bit. I havnt had a chance to try the o2 sensor yet waiting on a jack.

Thanks guys I am going to find and unplug the o2 sensor and see what happens. Can I unplug the coolant temp sensor will that possibly make it better for a bit? If nothing works I am going to get new wirer from subaru. My buddy checked the coil and said there was spark for all cylinders. Is it a all or nothing deal or can it just be too weak of a spark? I had a check engine light come on a while ago. It was usualy at highway speed going up a long hill but no bucking or sign of missfire. It came and went and I didnt have a chance to do anything. Then the car just started running realy bad half way to work one day after I drove somewhat aggressively. A buddy looked at it and he noticed my crankpulley was bad but thats not what caused the check engine light. It still bucked after new pulley and I checked the codes and it was a cam sensor with no missfire. I replaced that and then it ran bad again. I checked codes no camsensor code but now alot of missfires.

wow everyone I know says a wire is a wire it shouldnt make that big of a difference so go to a dealer and get true OEM wires? and is there anyway at all to tell if that truely is the problem before I thow down more money?

I just read another thread that said useing aftermarket plug wires is bad. Could this all be because I got a set of wires at Advanced Auto?

Hi everyone. My 2003 legacy is misfiring like mad and I dont know why. I have changed the plugs and the plug wires. I had a camshaft sensor code and replaced that as well. I took the plugs back out and saw black soot on a couple of them so I was told that means that I am running rich. The car seems to run ok when its a cold start after it sits for a couple hrs but after a few miles it warms up and bang back to running like ************. I was thinking that maybe the engine coolant sensor is bad not telling the computer switch to hot mode if you will and its delivering to much fuel constantly. Is this possible or more likely something else. Af far as I can tell I havnt gotten a code for that sensor.

Hello everyone. It appears my crankshaft pulley is not out far enough and has started grinding into the plastic timing belt cover. I have know idea as to why the car is a 2003 legacy gt. Is there a spacer or something missing it has already cause my AC bet to snap. I would appriciate any advice. Thanks.