RacingFlyer

Hello all, I have listed on eBay a brand new receiver/drier I have for sale. I had bought it to fix my A/C but it turned out to be the wrong one I needed. So now I need to unload it. It is a UAC P/N RD1159C which should be equivalent to Subaru P/N SOA332A412. I ended up needing SOA204660 instead for my Matsus*ita A/C system. This drier also works on some Acuras, Hondas, Toyotas etc... Here is the link. Bids start at $9.99. Hope it can help somebody http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Acura-Legend-NSX-Honda-Accord-A-C-Receiver-Drier-NEW-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3a5e80ceafQQitemZ250693602991QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_500wt_975

OK, thanks. I'll look at the new one when I get it. The old one did not really have that data on... I looked and did not find anything.

Hi, I am afraid I need some help from people who know about old A/C systems on our cars. I think I just blew a seal on my compressor as you can see... Two weeks ago, I had it recharged with Freeze 12 instead of R12 at a local shop... now I think I should have stuck with R12 or go to a shop that is specialized in A/C systems... or may be it was just time for the compressor to let go... It is a Matsush*ta N1300AC4 unit on my car. I have already ordered a reman compressor and a new accumulator/drier. Got a smoking deal for both of eBay. My question for you guys is how much oil is supposed to be in the system? I have obviously lost a bunch of oil but nowhere in my documentation does it show how much oil there is in the system. Also, when you recharge with R12, what are supposed to be the typical high and low side pressures you are reading? I am asking because once I change the compressor and the drier I want to make sure I supervise whoever does the job on my car and that they do the right thing. Thanks!

Part deux: the inside I used a Rostra 250-3593, because I thought it was a perfect fit... I spotted that open square area to the left of the steering wheel. It's a cap that pops open. I don't know what was supposed to be there, probably some kind of option I don't have. Anyhow, there is already a whole inside this space for a wiring pass through. Perfect! Anyhow, I removed the cap, drilled it and installed the Rostra panel on it, then ran the wires from under the steering column. Then all that is left is to wire the thing... There is a power prong that you plug to a 15A fuse in your fuse box. Any fuse, as long as it is an accessory. I used the one... for the cruise... logic The VSS can be found behind the fuse box. Unscrew the fuse box, drop it and behind it you will see 3 big connectors. From left to right, a blue one, a black one (center) and a white one. Pull the black one out. VSS is the yellow and red wire. Splice it to the VSS wire of the Rostra unit and plug the connector back in. Find the connector for the brake switch (above the break pedal) and splice those 2 wires to the Rostra unit, respecting hot and cold side of the brake switch. Wire the 4 pin connector between the switch panel and the Rostra wire loom (that's what will send ON/OFF/SET/RESUME to the unit). And my panel in addition needed power so I had to wire that too, but it was supplied on the Rostra loom. Pick a ground close to the Rostra unit (I used an attachment bolt of the bracket for the washer pump) That's it. All in all, I would say pretty easy I have not figured the tach signal yet but I can live without it. If it all comes to that, I have a kit that came with the unit that I can install to provide an external Tach signal. The modification cost was less than $100 including shipping. Normally it's more around $200 but somebody was selling one on eBay so I snatched it Now my right leg can rest during those long trips on the highway

OK, here is what I have done: Rostra unit 250-1223 installed in the engine compartment close to the washer pump: Route the electrical wiring above the spare wheel to the driver's side of the car. There are some open brackets you can use. Then drop on the driver's side towards the steering column. There is (at least there was on my car) an empty feedthrough just outboard of the steering column. Use it to run your wires inside the car. The throttle cable was routed under the spare wheel. You have to kinda make a 180 from the unit to start going towards the rear, then go over to the driver's side and then run along with the main throttle cable. Anchor the cruise throttle cable on the spare bracket alongside the main throttle cable. Sorry.... it was too hot and I did not feel like removing my spare wheel from the engine compartment Next, the inside...

Correct it's a 250-1223 and I did not use a stalk but a panel 250-3593. I will post a few pictures of the install in a sec. And I will explain what I did. Works like a charm (except for that safety feature that is not working but I really don't care that much about it)

That did not work either... Oh well, I have contacted Rostra and we'll see if they can be of any help. The cruise is working fine. It's just that safety feature missing and I can live without it.

Well, that would explain then... Thanks Naru. I will try this next

Hi everybody, This question might be for those who have already installed a Rostra Electronic Cruise Control in an older Subie. I have just finished installing a Rostra Global Cruise in my '89 EA82T 4WD A/T Wagon and it works well, as intended. All the switches work as they are supposed to and the speed is indeed nicely regulated. HOWEVER... I have one small issue which is not a show stopper but kinda annoying. It seems that the Tach signal is not picked up by the Rostra Unit. I know the VSS signal is correct since the cruise is working. But when I kick the transmission in neutral while driving, revs jump up to the rev limiter... meaning the Tach signal is not picked up (it's a safety thing according to Rostra, does not affect function). For both VSS and Tach, I picked up the signals out of the big black connector, located behind the fuse box, between the blue and the white connectors. VSS was a yellow and red wire and the Tach a yellow wire. I followed the schematic I have to confirm that. I even did ring the Tach wire from the backshell of the connector to the + of the ignition coil and it is correct... so I know I picked up the Tach... but it ain't working as it is supposed to. Does anybody know which step I am missing? Any help welcone. Thank you

Yeah, I have it. Well, a new one. I was just planning to coat the pump and the engine block with gasket maker, and then sandwich the gasket in all that. Like a BLT But I said was because it seems that the permatex has settled. It is almost not leaking anymore... May be it just needed time to settle...

Thank you Miles! Yes, you deserve a good part of the credit. The new water pump (Genuine Subaru, NOS scored on eBay for cheap) had the new O-ring and I put it in. There is no leak visible in that area, it seems to seat good. What happens is from the bottom of the pump. I am almost certain I messed up the RTV. I bought some special water gasket RTV at the auto store but I did not like it. Too soft... I should have listened to myself and use my big tube of RTV/all purpose gasket maker... This way I would have had a nice bead all around the mating surface on the engine block... Oh well, I'll do it again this weekend, with a nice Felt-Pro gasket this time BTW, can I pull the pump out without draining all the coolant.. AGAIN? If I just pull the water pipe and the return hose, how much of a mess am I gonna get? Thanks!

Hello there, I just wanted to thank all the forum members for their posts. A while back, I was thinking about selling my GL wagon but Miles Fox made me change my mind. So, since I was to keep it, I decided to go ahead and do the major maintenance that was due on it. Last weekend, I went ahead and changed the timing belts, belt tensioners, idler roller, water pump, camshaft seals, crankshaft seal, oil pump seals etc.. And thanks to all the posts you guys wrote on this forum, it all went smooth. Well, almost... I need to reseal the water pump as it seems that I may have missed a spot with the RTV (small leak when the car cools down). My fault... But I cured that oil leak I had Now the GL Turbo Wagon is ready for another 10 years Thanks all y'all!

I agree with you Miles... You may be right... I may just keep it as a spare. I like the car. It's been very reliable to me and dependable. Easy to fix and cheap to own. But it is just not the right car for long distance. Just drove 1200 miles over the holidays in it and it is not for long haul trips. But like you said, I may just keep it as a spare and keep working on it to make it better everyday.

Hi all, Well, don't shoot me but I may be finally replacing my old faithful GL wagon. I would like to have a feel for what you think. Should I trade it in or sell it or keep it? And if I sell it, how much do you think it is worth? I haven't worked the dealer hard yet but it seems I may be able to get a couple thousand or so for it. Here is the details of the car: 1989 Subaru GL Turbo Wagon AWD 4EAT transmission - EA82T engine with 92,000 miles (yes, that's it) I bought the car in 2004 with 51,000 miles on it. Never used as an off road vehicle. Since I have owned it, I have done the following work on it: - New shocks all around - New alternator - New brake discs (all 4) - New brake pads - 2 front CV axles replaced - New radiator - New spark plug wires - New distributor cap and rotor - New ignition coil - Valve cover seals replaced in 2005. - New rear wheel bearings (all four) - New timing belts (done at 55,000 miles) - New V-belts (done at 55,000 miles and again at 91,000) - New battery in 2008 - Spark plugs changed recently - A/C was recharged with R12 in 2005 and is still blowing very cold. No leak. - Sony CD player/Tuner with Sony speakers installed (couldn't stand the old radio) Things that need attention: - Power steering fluid leak around the power steering pump. Haven't had time to investigate yet. - Front right CV axle needs to be replaced... again (noisy); have a new one sitting in the garage waiting for me to find some time to put it on - Timing belts need to be changed soon I would say - Front camber is off... eating the outside of the tires. Not adjustable... I have new tie rods, new ball joints and a used lower control arm that need to be installed to try to cure the problem but I haven't had time for that either... - Engine leaks a little bit of oil. Probably coming from the camshaft seals or the crankshaft seal. - Engine burns a little oil and uses a little bit of coolant too (head gasket...) but nothing out of the ordinary for a car that old. Well, let me know your thoughts... Keep 'er as a spare car or sell 'er? If I sell it what do you think I should ask? Thanks!

Nope. Don't have an impact wrench. Just a breaker bar and a steel pipe that I use as an extension. I guess I'll try my luck and see. I just remembered that I know a mechanic that used to work for Subaru in the 80's. He has now his own shop where he works on fancy cars (Porsche, Ferrari, Aston Martin... always fun to visit his place!) I'll call him Monday and ask him if he kept his tools from his Subaru experience. If I'm lucky, he still has the socket and wil let me borrow it. Hey, I appreciate the offer for letting me use your socket, but Peoria is a little far from Little Rock. But that was nice, thanks!