Deener

Thanks for all the responses everyone!! I will update once it's done.

Hi all, Pops needs to replace the rear brake lines on his 94 loyale. They both ruptured right at some spot that they attach to the frame(?). I doubt the dealer will stock these things, and a junkyard might be the last option he'd like to pursue...so are these lines easily fabricated? Are they a universal size? Is it pissible to find replacements at a local parts store perhaps under a sinilar vehicle etc...?Just curious what im getting into as I will be helping him with them. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Hi all, Im having trouble telling exactly which shocks/struts I need in order to replace what is on my 2010 xt. I have an SH as the 4th and 5th letters of my vin but I still cant tell if I need to get self leveling replacements (not even sure what I have yet) or if I can just get some kyb's from ebay or what. I am towing my boat so do I need to maybe add some king springs too? I dont want to change height if i can avoid it. Anyone know what will fit? Thx

Despite my best judgement, research, and sound advice from board members I got the 2010 xt. It is very fast and very fun and has the premium pkg. I figured that if the engine goes, I'll just drop another one in. After test driving it...you were right...I found plenty of ways to justify it! Thanks for the help though, apologies for not listening.

Thanks man. This confirms my suspicion about the xt. I just really like my 98 dohc right now, hence the interest in the xt. Ill look more towards the sohc.

Hi folks. Its been a while. I am about to buy a newer (to me) forester. I am looking at the 2009 2.5x premium and a 2010 xt. I dont know much about these years and i am just looking for some basic opinions on what to check for...if there are any known issues with those years, turbo issues etc. Thanks Dean

Thanks bratman. I see them on ebay. Ill give them a shot.

Bratman...thats what i thought too...which is why i went with MLS last time. But they appear to have failed rather quickly and im up for whatever works best. Decking the heads for sure, maybe new bolts, but now i dunno about the gasket...lots of different opinions here.

Thanks! I don't know how many times ive followed a GD writeup! Im gonna make that rig for sure.

Interesting. I used the old felpro petmatorques on my ea82s too...and none have leaked. Hmph. I did check them with my straight edge and they seemed good with the feeler gauges. Thanks for your advice. One last question for you...do you recommend new head bolts too?

Sigh...no. I tried to shortcut the downtime by just cleaning the surfaces myself...worked great on my old ea82s but i guess its truly not good enough for the 2.5d. As per your recommendation, I'll try the composite/laser weld gaskets you speak of now AND get the heads decked.

Looks like my HGs are going again on my 98 2.5 dohc. But...the MLS gaskets (i replaced them last year) are made of steel...how could this be? I havent overheated the car ever. Getting what smells like exhaust in the overflow bottle. Bottle is getting full and rad is getting empty. Assuming its an internal failure between exhaust and coolant passages. New rad cap...no coolant out the tailpipe or on the ground and no visible leaks. Using subaru coolant and conditioner too. Has anyone else had the replacement MLS gaskets fail on them?

Thanks ocei77. So...if I was to just take the button out and twist the two ends together, what happens when I disconnect the battery the next time? How do I do the reset? Would that mean that I have to UNDO the connection with the ignition turned to 'on' in order to reset (and stop the lights from flashing)?

Because I am unsure if the "dock lock timer" is known to cause the specific issue I described. Its such an odd thing to happen that I turned to the internet looking for help, read a couple of similar posts and followed up with specifics related to my model. Digging into the dash is time consuming, especially if I have to tear the whole thing out just to get at the unit. Furthermore, I am unfamiliar with exactly what a "door lock timer" is supposed to do, so I don't even know if removing said device would help the situation. Ha ha, I am not throwing anything in any lake. I don't pollute. I fish.

Thanks, the doors are sealed nicely. Switches have been dry for a long time. I guess I could try unplugging the lock switches to see if that makes a difference.