chad millett

Well, the guy that owns thw car took it to the dealership and they changed the bulb and it works. I dont understand??????

My friend has a 2001 legacy outback. The low beam on the drivers side is out along with the daytime running light. I replaced the bulb and it still wouldnt work. I put the bulb that came out in the passengers side and it was blown. I put the known good one from the passengers side into the drivers side and it still didnt work. I checked all the headlight related fuses and they are all good. If anyone has any ideas on what I should check next........... What should the voltage be going to the small bulb?

The way I checked the inner joints was to have an assistant (that you trust) hold the brake and shift from reverse to drive while you watch the inner joint. With the ones I just did you could see them move way too much! They actaull moved up and down. After I took them off you see, feel and hear how bad and loose they were. The vibration would go away when you let off the gas and get worse with acceleration.

Ok. I changed the remaining cv axel and it was also definatly bad! The vibration is gone! YAY! It seemed if the inner joints had no grease in them at all. It was dry sounding and loose with clunks and all. Now to address the skipping in the AWD. It does it even going strait. Im hoping its just a u joint or something less expencive than clutch packs.

I checked the axels and they both had play on the inner joint. One was worse than the other. I changed the worst first. It got rid of most of the vibration. I will change the other one tomorrow. They are covered under warrentee. The one I took out was very loose on the inner joint and the new one was stiff. These axels came from Advance Auto Parts. I hope these last longer than the others. They looked different. I guess there may have been a recall. They wernt sure. The old ones didnt even make it 4 weeks and the car sat for a week and a half of it with a blown engine. Ill post the results after I change the other axel tomorrow.

I guess I will try changing the axel again. I have the reciept so they will cover it anyway. It is from Advace Auto. Its not a rebuilt part but it is aftermarket. If it was the inner joint......could it get worse then better like it has been?

I just worked on a car that wouldnt do anything when you put the FWD fuse in. I thought that meant it had a bad duty c solenoid? Wouldnt that make the trans. temp light flash at startup or something? Yes both issues need to be addressed and the odd vibration is bad enough so that the car is parked. It goes good for a bit after it sits for a few days. I checked all the fluids and they are all good. I was thinking it might be a dry front differential or something........ Im leaning to a bad cv axel again. This all started shortly after the driverside one was installed and it does seem to be coming from that side more... Its hard to tell where its comming from except that it feels like the front. The steering wheel doesnt really shake and to look at the tires while in motion looks ok. U sually you see a vibration this bad...Im so confused. Im thinking if it turns out to be two issues all part of the tranny I should consider finding another one.

If it was a failed duty c solenoid it wouldnt go into FWD when I put the fuse in.....correct? I dont think the odd vibration and the issue while in all wheel drive is the same. I believe they are two seperate somewhat serious issues. Ive felt torque bind before and if this is what that is....then its so bad its seizing up.

The car had sympyoms this summer with the AWD. It was skipping on accell and turns. It went away when put in FWD. I thought that had something to do with the clutch packs. Now it has that vibration. I havent checked the front differential fluid in a couple of months. The vibration began after the second cv shaft was replaced. I thought this was this issue until we figured out it got worse the more you drove it or the hotter it got...... I will check some fluid levels the next time i see the girl who owns the car.

The car is a 97 legacy outback. There is an odd vibration while accelerating. It gets worse the more its driven. If you let off the gas it stops vibrating. Yesterday it got so bad that it was making noise while jumping the whole front end. After pulling over and checking things out I found nothing visable. Then after it sits it will go okay for a bit then gradually get worse again. It got so bad that we left the car for the day and then drove it the few miles back home where it will sit until I figure this out. Im sure its in the front. The fwd fuse is in. I was thinking it was a drive axel but now they have both been replaced with new ones and it still does it. Does anyone have any ides what this could be??

The engine light is on and I was assuming it was because of the charcole canister. I guess I will have to wait until I get the y-pipe so I can take the car to Advace Auto Parts to get the codes read and cleared. Im sorry I didnt give you credit for saying the motor would fit, Grossgary. I got most of my information from other people in private messages because it was faster, But....THANK YOU! My guess is that this engine will outlast the car. It is 11 years old. Its not in great condition. There will be clutch pack issues to deal with sometime before winter. If this motor goes it will be the last one and the car will be junked. Thats what I do for spare money during the summer. I will recommend that my friend buy a newer subaru the next time. Im sure she doesnt want to replace the engine again. Its too bad these engines are not as "bullet proof" as the earlier 2.2. As far as plug-n-play goes....I would consider it that if there was no extra work involved. I am going to switch the intakes because I want everything to be as original.

So I installed the 2.5 today. It starts and runs good but there are some changes that need to be made. There is no place to hook up the charcoal canister and there is one extra wire that I think is ground anyway but it does have a connector on the end of it. I think im going to have to swap the intake for the one that came with the cars original 2.5. I still have that engine too. That has the charcole canister hookups and no extra wire. I will have to buy a y-pipe for the exhaust because I dont have the original 2.5 y-pipe anymore. It needs the dual port instead of the 2.2 single port. So....the engines dont quite plug-n-play, but close.

The 2.5 was only $500. The 2.2 had severe internal damage. The timing belt was still turning some but it sounded likr it was skipping teeth somwhere near the center by the crank pully. So every time someone tried to start the car more damage was being done until there was no compression. It sounded like it came apart internally. This engine has had a recent timing belt change according to the previous owner.

I picked up the 2.5 from the 98 forester yesterday. (its a EJ2.5 dohc) Im going to begin installing it today. Hopefully its just plug and play. I keep reading something about the cam sprokets possibly being different. I read where someone had this problem and the motor wouldnt start after the installation was complete. They had to change the sprocket and cam sensor. I hope I dont have this problem. Most people are saying its all the same so I hope so. Wish me luck!

No it was my own diagnosis. The 2.2 is a 97 and that year they became an interference engine. I was standing in front of the car when my friend started it. It made some bad knocking clanging noises and stoped. Then it wouldnt start and had the sound of no compression.

Are the engines from a Forester different than a legacy? I have a 97 legacy outback that need an engine....again. I put the 2.2 in the last time and it was farly easy. (after learning a lot) Well, 40,000 miles later the engine broke a timimg belt and wrecked a lot of ************. I found a 98 2.5 out of a forester. Will this bolt up? What do I nedd to be aware of? Please help! Thanks, Chad