Pat Gilbert

Thanks alot for your write up. I will visit a few local yonkers. I am thinking that Loyale and xt6(rears) are the same overall length, just have to be sure to get a 4wd model, but no, we will be using the 4 Runner struts. Those are practically identical to the 4wd loyale rear strut. Except strong. That's what I want, something that does not bottom out or break easily. I do not jump it, at least not yet.

So I have to fix my XT6 because the rear suspension is failed. I have 4WD, so a rear strut for moderate offroading would be the toyota 4 runner 4x4 front strut with new loyale wagon rear springs? I have heard the xt6 FWD struts are a bad choice for replacing the original xt6 air ride. I read that they handle poorly and ride terrible. I do not want to modify my knuckles though, as I have read may be necessary to use say later Impreza struts. so I may try to peice something together like you have done. I do not want to increase the ride height, really, except on the strut that is popped!! I wanted to ask if the XT6 front 4wd strut is any different than your original loyale strut, and in what way? Also, when you were sourcing the front springs, you mentioned that you took the old coils with you, were they the loyale 2wd versions?

Well I bought a different dist. for an 1800 engine, exact duplicate except the number on the side, and the plug. Switched it out.....no spark! I suppose I'll need to locate an ignitor module thingy. That is the next step in the line, so to speak....... Anyone got an ignitor module for this vehicle? Please message me at aorqo@hotmail.com

I got a feeling its the ignitor/resistor, anyone gota line on 1 of those?

Well I have checked the signals with the disty hooked up and get the 5v/0v switch while cranking from both GY and BW wires. At this point ALLDATA says the control unit is bad(Idont know if they mean ECU or transistor). I think they mean ECU, but the name 'control unit is interchangable' with both parts. It would seem that signal back from disty to transistor means good computer? I am confused at this point, but not frustrated.

My PN is DP4 86-03A 8204, but the plug on the bottom that comes out looks the same. That is what you mean 'swap plugs' right?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SUBARU-XT-LOYALE-DISTRIBUTOR-1988-1994-USED-AUTO-PART_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1638Q2em118Q2el1247QQcategoryZ33690QQihZ007QQitemZ170238498251QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V Uh is this the one? Gear isnt even close to the same.Plug doesnt match, but you said it fox hook it on up eh?

By the way the rotor turns, I've removed and replaced whole disty to pour the water out, inspect for damage, missing gear(LOL), see if I could remove the sensor(can't), so on. Believe me I wont have a problem with the timing belts, I got two in the trunk, and a quick release radiator!!!! I like the fact that the ECU is kicking out the right voltage though.

I have checked voltage into the disty, all is well, 10v, 4v, 4v, ground. My flow chart reads to check the coil pole wires for alternating between 5v/0v while turning the engine over. It is always 10v either pole. ALLDATA says to replace the crank angle sensor at that point. Iwent to the parts store and they said I could buy a new dist/crank sensor for 200$ lifetime warranty. When I asked about the ignitor they said not servicable. I find that hard to believe seeings how I can remove it!!!! If I go ahead and trust ALLDATA, I will be looking for a used disty I reckon.

The ECU appears to be intact, so I will proceed to the dist, and check the optical sensor response. If I have a hitachi computer, will I have a Hitachi distributor? I see a ND one listed for this car as well

That's good to hear! I have considered a MSD SCI ignition, with a Hall's Effect distributor, but I haven't finished the diagnoses yet. Does anyone see a problem with that sort of setup? Can I use an optical with a MSD ignition? I may spend a few bucks, but I would have a great ignition if this old girl ever dies(LOL). I got fuel pressure, and the relays all come on so...

Sorry if I posted in the wrong section!! I wasnt thinking repair, I was thinking replace. While I was waitng for a reply I figured I would look around, and saw a post " How to repair a damaged ECU for EA82 (if the fuel pump doesnt run). I see a diagnoses that includes taking the ecu apart to visually inspect for damage. I have taken apart many a computer and do know the risks, but dont want to risk destruction of the unit. I know the pins and locations for the timing section of the ECU, but am unsure how to proceed. Will the defect be obvious if it is in the ECU? I smelled a burned something electrical smell in the car, not like wire insulation, more like an old HO train track shorting out. No visible wire damage.

!988 Subaru DL, 5 speed N/A. My wife hit a huge mudpuddle(river) the other day, and the car died. She parked it and walked, we picked it up towing it, and whilst towing I pop-started her and she came alive, with the usual sputtering from driving through a river. I revved it up a bit to clear it out and succeded in clearing it, only to see all functions cease, no lights no pump, no ignition. No problem right? Just the fusible link, right? No, the link popped I replaced it, I have all functions except timing, and the tail lights. I have voltage at the coil, but I dont think it dumps correctly. Apparently the distributor must be replaced as a unit? I cant just buy the optical sensor? Or could it be the ignitor, the small device that tells the coil to dump, located just under the coil? I have a spare coil that works, and the Subaru coil works fine on my Falcon, so it must be one of the other two, or could it be the ECU? Timing is controlled by this model's ECU right? Any input would be helpful, and also the Subaru Graveyard nearest to me (Battle Creek MI), for parts. I love this car and cannot stand to let it sit. If you can assist let me know. I was also wondering if I can scrap the electronic disty for a good ol solid state unit? Thank You for your time.......