tuner-auto

Thanx for all your help . I hope to open up the front soon .

No codes . hope to open her up soon.

Didnt help. Im at a loss . Maybe I should start parting it out .

How do I do that ? Just pull the battery cables ? If so , Ive done that.

Havent had a chance to test the wires according to Cougars instructions but I did manage to talk with the last mechanic to work on the subaie before it was trailered to me. Here is what he said he did ..... Replaced coil pack Replaced ignitor Replaced ECU tested coil to ignitor wires - ok tested ignitor to ecu wires - ok test fire coil pack - ok test ohms to knock sensor - ok test ohms to new crank sensor - ok test ohms to new cam sensor - ok test run with cam sensor disconnected - no run test run with crank sensor disconnected - no run test run with knock sensor diconnected - no run test run with MAF disconnected - CEL on runs bad Flash ECM - Runs OK now . Now after he flashed the ECM the guy I bought it from said it ran good for about a week then went back to running like I have it now. How do you flash a ECM ? Thanx

I think my meter may need a new battery then as I have tried using all the different Ohm settings at it sits at 1 . When I touch the wires you have suggested , I get no reading change on the meter. Sorry for this lack of knowledge but with a bit of patience I will understand this multimeter usage and be better for it . Thanx

Well here is where it gets to a real learning experience. Im not well versed in electrical and I never learned how to use a Multimeter . I have a Cen-Tech Digital multimeter . I have it set at Ohms at 200 The readout says 1 on the digital display I disconnected the coil and the ignitor and connected the leads to the blue wire and the other to the red wire. I get no reading on my multimeter. It stays at 1 . Thanx in advance for the electrical leasson Im going to get when this is all done

excellent , hopefully I will get this opportunity today.

so what is the rectification then ?

I can agree 100% with you on doing that type of swap but unfortunately that is not an option as I have no vehicle to swap with.

Ignitor has been replaced as well as plugs , wires and coil.

sorry . Just to set it straight . The front two are arcing but the back tow are not. Which means I have 1 plug on each head firing . Did I square that up? Sorry for the confusion..... long week.

Will do. I do plan to tear it down to the tbelt soon . thx

Will do but if that wire did not have continuity then none of the plugs would get spark and Im getting spark at 1 & 3 plug.

parts came from working vehicles. electricals have been wiggled and tripple wiggled = no spark at 2 & 4 still

Picked up a 92 Subaru Legacy 2.2 5MT with 250k miles for $159 . Ran horribly but ran. Did a complete tune up with..... New plugs , wires , fuel filter , PCV , Air No change Checked for spark at coil and only 1 and 2 are arc ing from the coil to plug wires. Nothing on 3 and 4 . Swapped out coil for known good coil = no change - still no spark Swapped out Ignitor for known good ignitor = no change - still no spark Whats next ? Car starts right up and runs , just only on 1 and 2 cylinder. Thanx

My rear hatch in my 95 legacy wagon is missing all the plastic trim. The junkyard has about 5 Outback wagons ranging in years 96-99 that have the trim pieces I need. Will they fit on my 95 Legacy ?

I have a 91 Legacy wagon AWD NA. My struts are toast and Im riding on the coils. Just wondering what other makes, models and years of subarus will bolt on ? Meaning.... will a 96 outback strut fit? A 95 Legacy strut fit? Etc. I need all 4 struts , front and back replaced.