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etc

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Posts posted by etc

  1. I got a 2001 Subaru Legacy Outback, 4-cylinder automatic. It was more or less a parts car. I paid $550 for it plus some gas for towing. I mainly got it for the transmission. I figured I could part out the rest of it. I removed the tranny. 

    I have never seen it ran and had it towed.  I don't know what the problem was, it turned over but refused to start. 

     

    Ended up selling the rest of it to a guy for $600 or about what I had in it, with the understanding that it is a parts car and is missing the tranny. 

     

    He contacts me a week later, saying the 2.5L engine is no good. He says it knocks. I asked him to produce a video and send it to me. He is 1.5 hours away and it's not practical to go see it. He than said it has a span bearing or bent valve and that he has already removed from the recipient vehicle.  I ask for proof and he says his word is good enough. He said he feels screwed that it's a $300 car and not $600. 

     

    I don't really question his credibility  but my question is this, how much is a parts 2001 Outback worth, with missing tranny and potentially bad engine?  Does the 2.5L develop a knock, and how would a bent valve manifest itself? If the root cause of the car not starting was broken timing belt, this might explain a lot.  

     

    Furthermore, he refuses to show any proof the engine is bad, and removed it from the vehicle he had it installed in (I  am assuming a different car) with no way for me to verify it's no good.  

     

     

     

  2. Cosmetically it's so-so. The front bumper is missing some paint, the rear had a minor fender bender (2mph) and is misaligned in places about 1/4 inch.

     

    the seats are fine. Carpet could use cleaning.

     

    No rust. Virginia car.

     

    Rear brakes new, front OK. Axles seem fine. I think 2 of the tires are almost new. It passed inspection last year without issues.

     

    The torque bind issue has been fixed.

     

    In another time and place I would fix it, but I just don't have the capacity to engage in yet another project.

  3. I am in Rockville, MD.

    Well, how much do you think is a reasonable price for this? I would think somewhere between 600-900. I can offer a reasonable price but don't want to give it away either.

     

    There are some new parts in it, like radiator and the windshield. Plus keep in mind it's in running condition. I have been driving it this week without issues. Put the key in and drive.

  4. Problem is, I don't know how to fix it. I was going to do the Timing belt and the water pump but got overwhelmed, plus I think it was me who broke it in the first place.

    I tried to loosen the crank pulley bolt, couldn't, gave up on it and then shortly after that, it disintegrated to the condition that it's in now. It ran well before I touched it. So I am not sure it's the fault of the car.

  5. I am kind of fed up with low options of the Brighton wagon, no power anything, no tach, I really want a manual tranny now.

     

    If the engine can be salvaged, wouldn't it be better to yank the engine and put it in a low mileage 98 Legacy that needs an engine, and part out the rest.

     

    Possible to put that 2.2L into something like this, 98 Outback with blown 2.5L:

     

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/98-Outback-Wagon-runs-and-drives-needs-repair-AS-IS-/290430410280?cmd=ViewItem&pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item439f005e28

  6. It has that crank pulley keyway loose, lacks power at low speeds and gets horrible MPG, about 13. So it needs work in that area, plus the Timing belt is way overdue and looks in bad shape.

     

    How much can I sell it for vs how much can I part it out for? I don't really want to get involved with shipping as most of the stuff is either heavy and bulky and expensive to ship. Is there enough local market in Maryland (DC area) to part it out to?

     

    The enigne is solid otherwise, good compression, the head gasket is fine, etc.

     

    left1.jpg

     

    odo1.jpg

     

    engine0.jpg

  7. Hello and welcome. You block the crank to tighten the bolt it the same way you blocked it to loosen the bolt (unless you used the starter bump technique). Ram a prybar or something through the flywheel access hole, or if it's a manual just leave it in 5th. You can use a chainwrench with some old belt to protect the pulley but I've found it easier to just ram a prybar into the flywheel.

     

    You're supposed to put a little engine oil on the crank pulley bolt when you reinstall it. Make sure you get it tight enough because if it backs out later, which does happen to some people, bad things will happen.

     

    That's what happened to me. I tried to loosen it, gave up.

     

    Eventually the crank pulley keyway broken inside, my timing is completely wrong, no power, doesn't move unless warmed up for 10 minutes... apparently when tried to loosen it, I did loosen it just a bit and it went from there.

  8. I think the issue is that crank pulley bolt, there were numerous threads on it, including mine.

    Yes, it's very possible to fix it and if you know how I suppose not a difficult fix.

    It runs just fine when warmed up, just gets abysmal MPG.

    I should have it available in a few weeks.

     

    Has a new radiator plus I have the OEM water pump/timing belt parts in a box.

     

    Sending you a PM.

  9. 1998 Legacy wagon L, 155K miles

     

     

    subaru003.jpg

     

     

     

    Has a serious engine problem, basically I need a new engine. Something to do with the crankshaft, it won't even move at all unless warmed up for 10 minutes.

     

    Found a low-miles 2.2L engine + tranny (under 40K miles on them) from a wreck for 800 FRNs, worth getting it? It's here:

     

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280494787892&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT

     

    It's automatic and I would really prefer a manual however for best MPG. But the replacement tranny is very low miles, supposedly.

  10. There's a lot of reasons that people are loyale to the brand... some that come to mind:

     

    1. Really simple to work on - this is one of the big one's for me. The engine layout is not transverse - thus under the hood (especially the older one's) looks like under the hood of an old Chevy truck. All accesories, belts, etc are easily accessed. They are 100% symetrical down the center of the car - thus an axle from the left also fits the right.... etc. It also makes weight distribution very good and improves handling as there is little to no torque steer.

     

     

    GD

     

    +1 to that.

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