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etc

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Posts posted by etc

  1. OK. How do I check that it's not a head gasket issue? It didn't look like there was any milky fluid in oil, nor did it appear that there was oil in the coolant. But I will check again.

     

    It tore off the plastic end of the radiator where the uppper radiator hose goes onto. I still had room to reinstall the hose but it tore it off one more time. I suspect the radiator is plugged up inside somehow.

  2.  

     

    here is one of the kits...however this doesnt come with H20 pump and such...I have seen kits that have it all cam/crank seals, H20 pump, t-belt, tensioner, idlers, and H20 pump gasket all for like $300 so do some searching youll def. find something...

     

    Thanks for the links.

    Question, is that T-Belt OEM? If not, is it worth getting an OEM one at the dealer? What is that Dayco stuff, is that OEM?

  3. 98 Legacy L, 2.2L auto, 147K miles

     

     

    I was driving on a highway when I heard this loud pop. It sounded like a wheel exploded. About 15 seconds later I noticed on the gauge that the temperature has instantly gone into the red zone. I pulled over at that point.

     

    Opened the hood, lots of smoke and fluid everywhere. I thought it was oil but turned out to be coolant. The upper radiator hose was dangling loose. The plastic part of the radiator that the hose goes on was partially broken off.

     

    I put the upper radiator hose back on it and tightened the bracket. Filled the radiator with water and started the car. The temperature was stable just below the half mark so that was good.

     

    Got back on the highway, drove about 20 miles when the same thing repeated. Temperature shooting to the High zone, smoke. I pulled over, strangely the upper radiator hose was loose again. I connected it again, got back on the road and drove another 20 miles with no incident, temperature stable.

     

    I noticed I had no heat whatsoever.

     

    Question, is my radiator plugged up? I tried to drain it a few months ago and almost nothing came out except for a few drops. And heat worked poorly even back then, coming on after a long delaly and even then weak.

     

    Could it be a T-stat stuck in the open loop that's causing all this?

     

    I touched the upper radiator hose and it was very hot so that may disprove the above.

     

    Why does the hose keep popping off?

     

    At this point I am planning to replace all major components of the cooling system, including the radiator as it's broken anyway and the water pump, as I will be doing the Timing Belts shortly.

     

    Perhaps someone could shed some light on this?

  4. 1998 Legacy, 150K miles, 2.2L auto

     

    I have a major leak at the crankshaft seal. The bottom of the engine on pass. side, near timing belt cover is covered with oil, which drips onto the exhaust, causing much smoke.

     

    How do I tell if it is crankshaft or camshaft seal?

     

    I plan to replace:

     

    The crankshaft seal

    Timing belt and tensioner

    Water pump

    possibly the oil pump O-ring.

     

    Is there a good thread on the forum or elsewhere detailing how to do this? Step by step guide would be helpful.

    I don't have a FSM only Haynes/Chilton's stuff.

  5. Subaru DLR took my registration and DL, got some 5 digit number, (which I should have copied for me I suppose) took it to the parts dept. There they cut me 2 keys, at $11 each. They look substantially different from the poor copy Home Depot made me. I don't blame HD as they didn't have a good original to go on.

     

    The sweet thing is the new keys now open the pass. side door and the rear wagon door that the old key didn't open, it was worn out terribly. So losing this key is good riddance.

     

    I used some graphite lubricant and now all door locks open real nicely.

     

    Mental note: Always keep a spare key, you never know when you lose it or lock it inside.

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