All4EA81

Awesome.

Anyone running this pump on the stock wiring?

I'm swapping my DGEV for a DGV 5A Weber and decided to pick up a Redline fuel pump to go with it. The pump puts out 4-6 psi, but not to worry, I have a Holley Dead Head regulator kicking around that should do the trick. Now that I've already bought the pump, Ive started thinking about the stock electrical system. The pump came with paperwork saying in can draw up to 6 amps. Is this too much for the stock wiring and FCU?

Just to give a little closure to anyone doing a search. My EGR valve, which was disconnected, was leaking intermittently. Sometimes it would suck the carb cleaner I sprayed on it and sometimes it didn't. I fixed it by making a block off plate to replace the valve.

http://www.autohausaz.com/index.html has EMPI for a good price and I got mine in a couple of days shipping it ground.

I've had better success with coarse thread taps in aluminum.

Stainless is nice.

What happens when the 7/16th's studs strip out? Cut the holes larger? This is what I was faced with but at the time I was about to install different heads anyway so I opted to helicoil the new heads with the stock 10mm threads as a preventative measure. Because at the time I had 3 different thread patterns holding the exhaust on, I was able to get all new matching studs from the dealership, including the self locking star head bolts for the exhaust manifolds "spacers". About $20 in all but worth it. I've had the exhaust off ten times since and with the help of some high temp lock tight I haven't had one stud ever budge.

Interesting. I assumed that when the fan kicks on and starts using up power the RPMs should decrease a hair. But it sounds like the car compensates and is able to boost the RPMs instead? I'm pretty sure I don't have a vacuum leak. I've doused every intake connection with carb cleaner and had no results. And my idle is pretty steady with maybe a 25 RPM fluctuation. I've also hooked up a vacuum gauge to the manifold giving me a good solid reading at idle and a consistent reading at 1600 RPMs "the vacuum gauge did fluctuate slightly with the RPMs". I'm going to disconnect the cruise and brake booster next to completely rule out a vacuum leak. I would also like to rule out all electrical problems. Any suggestions are welcome.

Is it a 32/36?

I've read on the forum that my problem could be caused by the distributer bushings going out. It seems like mine are OK so I'm at a loss to what my problem is. I have a smooth idle. When I adjust the throttle to hold the RPMs at 1600, they will fluctuate up to 200 RPMs. Then, when the electric fan kicks in, the RPMs fluctuate up to 300 RPMs. When the fan quits, the RPMs go back to the 200 fluctuation. My Dizzy is a Hitachi pointless and has very minimal side to side play but has about a 1/16 of an inch vertical play. The vacuum advance doesn't leak. When I got my 82 Sub 2 years ago the Dizzy had a Philbin sticker on it so I know it had been rebuilt to some degree at some point. It was very dirty when I got it so I took it apart to clean it. As far as I can tell I put it back together correctly, adjusting the air gap to spec. I had an old Sub mechanic take a look at it and he said that he thought the bushings seemed acceptable. I have a new alternator and I have tried 2 different coils that gave me the same results. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Just as a follow up if antibody's interested, Redline emailed me back giving me the individual gasket part #s. 444 110 03 manifold gasket 99005 068 carb base gasket The guy had to search for these #s because he couldn't find a gasket set # either. Don't know if these are the actual gaskets though. Maybe I'll order them if I need some jets or filter one of these days, just to make it worth the shipping.

Harbor Freight hole punch it is! Thanks everyone.

Thanks hatchsub. I'm looking for the top and bottom gaskets for the adapter plate.

Greetings Everybody, I'm rebuilding my 32/36 DGAV Carb and I'm having a hard time finding just the adapter gaskets online. I ordered the rebuild kit and adapter gaskets from http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/ and they sent me the wrong ones. I went to http://www.redlineweber.com/ ,looked at the Subaru kits, and it gave me the part# 99004.110 for the adapter. I looked under the gasket kit for this particular adapter and its unlisted. Anybody run into this? Anybody know a good smart distributer that can help and won't be confused with my problem? Anybody recognize the wrong gaskets webercarbsdirect sent me? Anybody recommend just making my own?

Thanks for the explanation. It was exactly what I was looking for. I learned a lot from this thread.

So besides the voltage regulator, whats to protect your system from over voltage? A second regulator? If fuses protect from "pressure spikes" what can a guy do to stop a slow flood that doesn't have any push behind it?

Well, it sounds like these old gauges are more for looks now a days. Maybe I can just wire up an accurate warning light and still keep the stock look at the dash. Isn't there a spot on the pump a simple sensor can be screwed into?

My old oil pressure gauge read about 49 psi when fully warmed up. This gauge that came with the new instrument cluster reads about 67. And it takes a long time to settle into that range. When idling it only goes down to 50 where as my old one read about 25-30 as I recall. I'm going to check for any new shorts in the circuit then try swapping it with my old one.

So I got a new alternator, instrument cluster, and ignition switch. Now my volts read a constant 14 at the battery, the alternator, and even on my dash meter. Only now my oil pressure reads sky high and my seat belt chime works. I'm still curious about the melted bulb though. If the alternator starts to pump too much power isn't that what the fuse box is for?

I just had the alt tested with it out of the car.

My guess is the voltage coming from the alternator was higher than the voltage coming from the ignition and it was able to force its way through the charge indicator lamp and ground at the volts meter. This would explain the faint glow from the lamp. The volts meter probably jumps now because too much current was passing through it to ground. What I want to know is how did this happen and why didn't the designated 5amp fuse stop it from happening? Should I be worried about it happening again after I replace the parts? So far I think I need a volts meter, a fuel gauge, and some new diodes. Who knows what else got affected. Why didn't that fuse blow?

I think its just a coincidence, but as soon as i put my dash back in my alternator started to act up. I was driving down the hwy at night with my brights and heater full blast and i noticed my volts were slowly starting to die off. At the start of the trip they were about 13.5-14 volts, but by the end they looked to be down around 11 "according to the dash meter". I also noticed my charge light had a very faint glow. I inspected the alternator connections, and the terminal to the battery burnt me. It was putting out voltage at around 15+. I cant remember what the other two wires were at, but none of the voltages were the same as i recall. I took my alternator to Napa and Schuck's and it passed at both places. I thought it might be wiring going to the charge indicator lamp so i pulled the instrument cluster and found that the housing around the bulb had gotten hot enough to start to melt "although it still appears to be functional". Also, if i traced the path of current once the wire connects to the board, it also runns into a few diodes that look to have gotten a little hot. What would cause the alternator to pump so much current? Has anybody else seen the lamp wire melt anything like this? Why did my alt pass inspection? TWICE? The day after, my volts meter started to jump around. I took my alt to Knecht's -and it failed- so I bought a new one, installed it, and volts seem normal. But my console volts meter is still jumping around. It looks like the meter is fed by the ign switch. Why would the meter be jumping around?

Hey Hey! I found the problem! I traced the wires from the fuel pump and found a bad connection going into the dash by the passengers feet. I just had the dash out changing the heater core and I didn't do a good job with all the connections:rolleyes:. Now I have heat and gas! Sorry to waste all you good peoples time and I'm very appreciative for all the responses. Its easy to overlook the simple things. I had my control unit out with the cover off, inspecting the internals, and smelling the darn thing! Thanks:grin:

Also, I have a signal from the coil that I can get an RMP reading off of going into the FPCU.