greggbrat

I just pulled out a bad/smoking motor and replaced it with a junkyard motor of better quality. But the process was not without its quirks and humor. On the way over the my friends house to do the swap (in a warm garage) the new motor tumbled out of the back of my brat onto a busy street. :-) Fortunately some nice folks helped me load it back into my brat. The motor only suffered some minor damage........a broken pulley and a smashed carb. Not really a problem since I was using my old intake/carb anyway. And I just swapped over the new pulley. It took 3 tries to get all the coolant connections connected. Not quite the recommended method.......fill it up.....listen for splashing coolant. :-) This was my first motor swap......all in all it went pretty well. Granted I think I owe my friend my first born for all his help and the use of his garage. In end it runs great........now I just need a new exhaust and some bodywork.....then it will be a happening vehicle.

I never did unplug the MAF to begin with. I checked it this morning. The MAF is plugged in......all the hoses are connected.......none of the electrical connections are loose. The fuel pump is working in a steady stream. I unplugged a fuel line and ran the gas into a jug to check. The fuel pressure regulator is hooked up via vaccum line. UGGHHH!!! I definitely know that fuel is getting to the injectors......and the injectors are at least giving enough fuel to let it run for a few seconds. I also wanted to make sure that I didnt have another coolant leak from the intake manifold pouring into the cylinders so I drained the coolant.........no change......it still only runs for a few seconds. Any other ideas?

I have read that some vehicles use the signal from the oil pressure sending unit to activate the fuel pump. Does the EA82T use this design?

Meeky Mouse, I will check those hoses but the problem seems much more dramatic than just a vaccum leak. I think if it was a vaccum leak it would run rough, cough, sputter, etc. My car starts after about 10 seconds of cranking the starter and then runs fine at idle for about 5 seconds (less if I rev the engine). Logic seems to indicate that its not getting any fuel except for the 2 second burst of gas the fuel pump provides when the key is first turned on. I also noticed that if I do not turn off the key it wont start again......which implies that the only fuel is provided by the 2 second burst provided by the fuel pump when I turn the key on. I am going to do some investigative work today. I am thinking of hardwiring the fuel pump (just as a test) and see if it will run.

I do know that the 5/8" hose is connected to the aluminum duct and the other end goes pretty much straight down and slightly back towards the rear of the vehicle to a connection. I dont recall disconnecting anything from the air box.......with the exception of the large hose (3 or 4 inch diameter) going to the turbo. I actually installed the new intake manifold gaskets without disconnecting any of the fuel lines.......so I know all the fuel lines are still correctly attached. And I only disconnected 2 electrical connections. They were both sensors (looks like a spark plug with a single wire attached). One was on the top of the motor behind the intake manifold and the other was under the motor next the oil filter. What about the fuel pressure regulator? Could I have mucked up a connection on that? If I did muck up the connection to the MAS would that explain the motor only running for a few seconds (and having to crank the starter for 10 seconds to get it started)?

My ignorance of acronyms is showing.......what is a "MAF"?

Its a 1987 RX with an EA82 Turbo motor. I just finished putting in new intake manifold gaskets.....hence I removed intake manifold and then reinstalled. More than likely I caused the problem during my intake manifold removal and installation. Now the cars starts (after about 10 seconds of cranking the starter) but then shuts down within 5 seconds.......as if it has run out of fuel. It runs great in that 5 second duration. If I let it idle it will run longer than if I rev the engine.........which seems to indicate the fuel delivery is just not happening. I know that the fuel pump is working when I turn the key.....I disconnected the fuel line from the fuel filter and watched it spurt out a good healthy stream of gas for the 2 second duration that the fuel pump primes the gas lines. I ran out of daylight to perform any other checks. Here are some of my thoughts..... Did I put the vaccum lines on incorrectly? I was reading that the fuel pressure regulator has a vaccum line attached. Would the wrong line cause it to shut down? Are there some wires that I may not have reconnected? Or wires that came loose? Thanks, Gregg

The sage continues. I installed the intake manifold gaskets....and that was a chore. But now it wont run!!! I turn the key, and it cranks for about 10 seconds before it starts. Then it runs perfectly for about 4 seconds......and then it dies out. Its as if the fuel pump isnt working right. I did pull the gas line to see if it was being primed when I turn the key on (but not starting it). Gas shoots in a big stream. Obviously it is something I did when I removed/installed the intake manifold.............any ideas???? PS. Toybuilder....thanks for the offer but I already got the gaskets. They were only $3.50.

The Good News - I found the source of the overheating. I was blowing coolant right out the intake manifold gasket......but only when it was running under a load. The Bad News - Now I have to figure out how to get the intake manifold off. Thanks to everyone for their help. Gregg

Can you wave your magic wand over my subaru so that it will also "resolve itself"? :-)

I swapped out the thermostat and also put in a vented radiator cap. The problem of overheating persists but the symptoms have changed. 1. I checked for bubbles in the radiator while the engine was running..........no bubbles. 2. The car will NOT overheat sitting at idle. I let it run for about 45 minutes and it was still at the normal operating temperature. 3. I run it around the block (about 1 mile driving fairly hard) and I get all types of steam coming from under the hood. I cant find the source but it appears to be coming from near the upper coolant hose feeding the turbocharger. So, I replaced the upper hose. The same problem continues. 4. I drove it home about 20 miles with the vented radiator cap open and I didnt lose enough coolant for it overheat but upon arrival I am getting a gurgling sound (and steam) coming from near the turbo.......but the upper turbo coolant hose is not leaking. I cant really see the lower turbo coolant hose.....but I dont really think it is coming from there. It may not be coming from the turbo at all but it is definitely in the vicinity. The big question is now. Where is the coolant coming from? I only know of 9 possible locations to get a coolant leak of that magnitude. 1. Upper radiator hose 2. Lower radiator hose 3. Upper heater hose 4. lower heater hose 5. Upper Turbo Coolant hose 6. Lower Turbo Coolant hose 7. Radiator 8. Thermostat housing 9. Water Pump Is there something I am missing? Help.......my car is hot and it wont stop overheating.

That is great information! Thanks for the link. Now for the question of the low range. I found a post that states "80-82 has lower 1st gear but a 5spd dual range has a lower low range, 1.56:1 vs 1.45:1. 29s are going to be drivable but not great... Whether they are too fast for the trail depends on the trail, is it mountanous or flat? For flat Id say good enough. T-case mod is a lot of work but go for it if you got the time money and tools" Can anyone confirm that the 5sp D/R really does have a lower low range???? And what are those numbers? Thanks, Gregg

The poor dude (that would be me) is scared. I dont really want to have to replace the head gaskets. I appreciate all your responses. I am going to check for bubbles in my radiator and keep my fingers crossed that it doesnt happen.

I have no idea if its the original tranny as I just bought the vehicle with 210K miles. Do you know if the 4wd low range is the same between the 4sp D/R and the 5sp D/R? I read a post that stated they were different but there seems to be a lot of opinions.......I dont know if any are really backed up by fact. The main reason I want to know about the ratios now is that I am doing an engine swap on saturday (the current engine is pretty much dead). It would be easier to do a tranny swap at the same time. And I found a junk yard with a few 5sp D/R transmissions selling for a measly $80. I love junkyards. :-) BTW......you nailed the biggest issue.......with big tires a 5th gear overdrive would be pretty useless. But if there is a better overall range of gears that is what I seek.

There is no smoke coming out of the tailpipe, no water in the oil, no smell of burning antifreeze.

Is there a way to confirm that it is a cracked head or bad head gasket?

Maybe we are talking about something different........the hub is attached to the CV Axle.......if you dont remove the hub then the axle cant be removed.

It overheats at highway speed after about 15 minutes.........I havent let it idle long enough to overheat but it stands to reason that it would overheat at idle too. The temp gauge needle doesnt reach redline but its fairly close. My heater works fine........if the thermostat were stuck closed wouldnt that make my heater useless? Also, doesnt the water pump leak if it is no longer working? My understanding of water pumps is that if too much pressure builds up they blow a seal (by design) of some type and leak profusely.

I just acquired an 87 5sp D/R RX Turbo and its overheating. It has about 180,000 miles. The coolant is boiling out of the resevoir into the overflow tank....and some is spilling out also. Is this a common issue? I am just not sure what is causing it. The car appears to be running fine otherwise......although I am quite sure it needs a good tuneup. Radiator needs to be cored? Bad Thermostat? I dont want to replace the radiator to find out that does not solve the problem. Thanks, Gregg

I havent received any replies yet....please help!! If anyone has an owners manaul for the 1982 Brat it will likely list all the gear ratios. Thanks

I just replaced the passenger side half shaft on my 87 Subaru RX today. It was actually quite easy. The hardest part was getting the axle nut loose. I used a crowbar in between two wheel lugs and the other end on the ground to keep the hub from moving while I removed the axle nut. And you dont need to run out and buy a 36mm socket.......I used a pipe wrench and my body weight to loosen the nut. I used the instructions in a Haynes manual for this removal........the book was right on. Also you can use a small phillips screwdriver to push the pin out of the axle shaft near the differential........just make sure its slightly smaller than the hole its going into. I think its easier to do this from under the car. Just turn the axle shaft so that you can bang it out from underneath.

I have an 82 Brat EA81 with a 4sp D/R transmission. Does anyone know the gear ratios: 1st gear ratio 2nd gear ratio 3rd gear ratio 4th gear ratio and 4WD low range ratio I am considering converting to a 5sp D/R for mostly off roading. (and a 4inch lift with 27/28 inch tires) What are the ratios for the 5sp D/R Transmission 1st gear ratio 2nd gear ratio 3rd gear ratio 4th gear ratio 5th gear ratio and 4WD low range ratio And are all the 5 speed transmissions the same with respect to the gearing ratios? Thanks, Gregg

The motor is actually stamped with "EA81" or "EA82". the stamp is located just to the left of and below the carbureator (or efi air intake) on the engine block........towards the front of the car.

That is small fortune for a carb. Rebuilding kits are quite easy to use. Or, you can always pick up a carb at the junkyard for about $25. Dont be afraid to try a rebuild yourself in the future. I know its a bit intimidating the first time to do something like that but its a fun and enlightening experience to know that you really wont blow up your car doing a carb rebuild.

It would be great if the front diff gear swap worked........but I dont have the parts to find out for sure. Does anyone have the detailed specifications on the 4 speed D/R tranny? And the detailed specifications on an RS/RX (or any other tranny) tranny that has 4.11 gears......if I had the gears sitting side by side the answer to this question would probably be obvious.