tmonkey51
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Posts posted by tmonkey51
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The strength of a truss is at the peak of the rafters. The horizontal tie or ceiling joist is probably only OK to hang sheetrock on. Probably you can pull a subie engine on a 2x6 but I would double it. As long as the cj is tied solid to the rafters with 2x4's or actually scrap plywood is good also then it should be good. If the truss has enough interior structure you could perhaps just gusset the gangnails with plywood maybe. Hang off it. It should feel SOLID. You could just sister the whole ceiling joist from wall to wall if you offset the joints about 5 or 6 feet. The ceiling joist in your truss may not be one piece, it may be gangnailed end to end. Be aware.
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The mpfi sensor with one tab on it is seriously less expensive @ rockauto than the normal one with the plug. Can I make it work by soldering a lead to the body? Or maybe put a grounding connector the size of the sensor itself above the o ring?
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I saved the pic
These engines are obtainable that's the problem.
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http://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/cto/1259270952.html
Pre subaru? This guys been selling this thing for a long time. Conversion to ea82? It is a 2 door wagon, I like those. Any history buffs in the crowd?
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Probably, if your not a genius you can't do it. I checked all this out when I was looking at one. People change out the struts for normal struts. It's like the 95 imp struts that work.
You have to get the adjustable coilovers it seems to dial it in .
There is a link to the xt site somewhere if you search which gives a good explination. It should be in my old posts.
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http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50768
I still have this bookmark. I learned everything about the subaru here, starting with the timing belts. It's kinda tricky but once you learn it a monkey could do it. It will definitely be one tooth off the first time you try to snake it on there but be careful and it's really no problem. A hot tip I read recently is to use zip ties instead of the timing cover bolts, I'm definitely doing that. Some of the timing cover bolt will spin in the plastic or break so be ready. The pulleys when they come have a warning sheet about getting ANY oil or grease on the new belts because it is corrosive so I took all my covers off and washed them real good cuz that seemed like good advise. 200,000 is when you need pulleys I think. You don't have to take out the radiator to do the belts.
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The problem being that wherever you cut the roof has to be trimmed out some kind of way. Easy to cut, hard to make look decent. Plus, How do you make a tailgate? And, the structure of the unibody must be preserved. If the work is too much, having no real plan is way more work you can bet.
I just really like the idea of having t tops over the back seats.
I'm kinda hoping that somebody who can photoshop can put the pieces together.
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OK, I've fantasized extensively about this. Get like a ''87 wagon, and the same year brat wrecked with a good roof, preferably with t tops. Cut the roof off the brat just as close to the t tops as possible and at the bottom of the rear quarters. Cut the roof off the wagon right about where the post between the front and rear windows, including the whole back end of the car to strait up from the top of the rear wheel wells. Graft the brat roof on at that spot thus creating t tops over the rear seats and graft the bottoms of the quarters on wear ever they come together probably losing the back doors but leaving a window.. Take a Toyota truck bed(I like the '77 with the old school latches on the tailgate) and cut it vertical at the wheel well strait across the bed. Also cut off the front corners of the truck bed and weld them on to the now stubby bed. Just enough of the corners to make the transition to the subaru body from the toyota at the top of the rear wheel well. You have to make the brat roof fit so that the back glass fits good with the back seats of the wagon or make a removable panel or just leave it open and war wagon the thing. The brat roof gives the roof a place to end in the back with trim. The front of the now bobbed truck bed should go right up to the rear bottom of the rear seats so that when you put the seats down there would be almost a full truck bed. Put some diamond plate on the back of the rear seats for those gravel loads. Weld it all together good to preserve the structure.
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I have a 88 4d coupe d/r. The boot on the axle is leaking grease from the big side. My plan is too cut the clamp off, slam some wheel bearing grease in there and put a new hose clamp on it. I'm wondering if there is some special kind of grease in there or just regular grease? Thanks
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Definitely planning on on the 2" lift from the previously mentioned link. Bad back means 2" matters. Seems like you need the 2" for the 14" rims to be just right. Looks badass, without overdoing it. The spring thing sounds even easier. Which Honda is that again? Either way I can't wait.
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OK, more awesome imfo. So does that mean that any ol' gl/loyale with a dead automatic (a dead car only good for parts IMHO) is maybe worth putting in a auto awd leggy tranny thus creating a awd gl?(or fwd just to make it go?)
Like this one http://sfbay.craigslist.org/scz/cto/1085419809.html
This guy is bummin cuz he laid down more bread than the car is worth and then the automatic dies. This car (175G) with a good (say 100g) awd auto from a leggy could be worth it.
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Actually, I figure the strait west coast run. I always figured a one way trip with a junker and fly back, but with the Subie you could make it back also, so the east coast run could be doable. How about the east coast back up through Argentina and across the Amazon basin? Can we get sponsers for that?
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Wow, thanks you guys for the awesome imfo. I figured the tranny has 50 g's left but who knows. It's good to know there's a swap. Is that a direct swap or a big harness rats nest thing? I'm kinda smart only within reason. Nice one to flip maybe. Grandma owned, the car in it's pure state. I'll be watching it.
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Gonna need the espanol for the Tierra del Fuego trip. I guess this means going thru Uraguay.
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So I saw this black wagon today, looking forlorn with the hood cracked open. I stopped since I can't help it and it's a automatic fulltime turbo 4wd. I figured bummer it's an automatic, but only 125,000 so hmmm. Is anybody familiar with this tranny so I know what I'm getting into? I didn't know there were any awd gl10's. Seems pretty special to me. She looks all sad with that "under the tree too long look". I know she wants me.
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I got it all so I'm just waiting on the moment. EA82. The first guy with the links thanks for those took me right to what I needed. The number of the subaru guy in washington I'm saving that. Got the shart o ring. Looks good to me.
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Far out imfo dude thanks.
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Had no luck at the dealer or the oem subaru links i have. Thanks for the anxiety though. I would get oem by habit. One of the mouse ears was sucked in or installed wrong originally so I'm glad I took it out. I'm getting tired of waiting for the UPS guy for ten days. I remember seeing the oem oil pumps. Good practice maybe getting a new one anyway on a 200,000 mile car. Good grief. I'm not spending any more until this thing is rolling so the die is cast. If anybody has a oem link that's nice but I'm pretty sure I checked that.
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Thanks. Hadn't collected those links yet.
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I'm doing a nose job on my 94 loyale. I decided to do the oil pump seals because I decided at over 200,000 it was bad luck to neglect it. I found the mickey mouse o-ring that is the installation gasket at one place , and the oil seal behind the gear that is apparently generic at the other place. Is the o-ring on the shaft just a standard o-ring? Nobody has this thing as OEM, including the dealer(lame). Shouldn't somebody get a bunch of o-rings and shaft seals and somehow get the MM o-ring gaskets(the hard part) and sell it on ebay?
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205,000 with a clean looking fresh smog report. It has a busted timing belt. In have been studying all the threads and I sure appreciate the wisdom. I've been formulating my plan.
I'm definately changing the water pump while I'm there.
I want to change the tensioners also, I think I read that I can change the bearings in them. That could save some money.
Apparently I can change the seals in the oil pump as It's to much bread to replace it.
The idler gear is what I think broke the belt as it's pretty loose. Can I change this bearing also?
Yes I'm changing the cam seals.
One thing that worries me is that there wasn't much coolent in it. My bad for not looking, coulda got a hundred off for that maybe. I figure maybe headgasket going into the exhaust. No coolent in the oil(does that happen on subarus?). Over 200,000 I figure on resealing the whole engine at some point is a good idea anyway. It's been a daily commuter until the belt broke so I figure it will go for a while and I'll know if the coolent gets low. Hey, maybe it's just a pinhole or a radiator thing we'll see.
They had about 5 L series at the pick and pull so I'm stoked about that. All the ea82's had the passanger side head taken of so I guess that one goes first. I'm on the prowl for my 2.2. Hoping that,s smog legal in California. Got to ask the smog guy about that.
Seriously I'm really appreciating all the knowlage. Like that thing about the relays for the power windows, I could never figure that out. I havent wanted to take a engine apart(all the way) in years. I should be able to get through the belts and stuff OK , I'll let you know.
Once collapsed always collapsed?
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
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Recently I was having bad tick and had good luck with the Marvel mystery oil. I left it in quite a while. Then it came back for a while and I figured out it was the gas from the off brand gas station. It didn't matter that it was premium.