legacy2.5

thanks. after driving it more today, i noticed if i shift slowly, it hardly grinds. i think tom. i will replace the fluid, maybe with an additive, and test test drive it. and if i need to i will start to remove the trans. can you see the clips you are talking about through the rubber boot, where the clutch pedal freeplay is adj. ?? Does anyone have any recommendations for manual trans. fluid?

i just bought a 1990 legacy 5 speed for my winter car, so i dont have to drive my '97. i picked up for a good deal, and the previous owner said he just had the clutch replaced somewhere. my problem is when i shift fro 1st to 2nd, and 2nd to 3rd the gears want to grind for a second before engaging, and the same thing happens when downshifting. anyone with any ideas???? i had a problem like that with a manual dodge before, and it was fixed by mopar manual trans. fluid. i thought subarus took a regular off the shelf gear lube. Has anyone had a similiar problem with there older legacy 5 speed? thanks for the possible help in advance.

thanks. i try to help with enough real world and training that i have. if anyone has any questions ever feel free to email me. i think the problem with the micro switch is removing and re-installing it. jason

I was an import auto dealer tech for over 10 years. As I posted the same type of question 3 months ago with a full description of the problem. the dome light does not go on, and the door open light does not go on in the dash cluster, the door switches operate and test fine, the doors are in adjustment, hinges are perfect, the door latches properly. Now I will tell you what I found out this weekend. A single black wire on the end of th ignition switch leads to a micro switch, which after a long time spent diagnosing seems to be sticking. The micro switch senses the key in the ignition, which will start beeping if the keys are left in the igniton when you park and open the drivers side door. My chimer was going off while driving. because it was sticking it was making the chime go off. Now the chime is in the meter display area near the fuel gauge, but you have to remove the printed circuit board to remove it. So instead of spending the cash to replace an other wise perfectly good ignition switch, and having to get a new one re-keyed ( because you cant get the micro-switch alone ), I elected to cut the negative wire for the micro- switch ( which can be repaired if i ever replace the ignition switch ) I did use a subaru electrical manual to trace wires and look at diagrams to make sure there would be no negative effects on cutting the wire, and there were none. Plus that damn noise drives me crazy in the first place and I dont think I would ever hook it up again anyway. So, as you can see I did attack the root of the problem, I was curious to see if any other legacy owners had a similair problem.

did you ever get an answer about the key chime? i have the same question

if i am not mistaking the fuel filter on yours is the same spot as mine, under the hood behind the windshield washer tank. i have been using blended oil which is half oil, half synthetic and priced in between the two.

have you hooked your computer up to a scanner to find out what code is being set. i would retrieve the code and go from there before you just start replacing parts. once the code is pulled you will have an idea where to start looking.

my frustration level is ok, i work on cars for a living (nissan). i had the rims on for the last 1 3/4 years with no problem till recently, but i will check the mating surfaces, i did not notice anything out of the ordinary the last few weeks when i keep tearing the frt. wheels off. thanks for your help, at this point i am open to all suggestions.

i thought the rotors might be the problem, so i replaced them with brembo slotted rotors, noise still there, i used disc brake assy. lube , i lubed all the contact points and installed the guide pins correctly, caliper is free and floats normally

1997 with 95,000

the noise was there before i updated the brakes. see, i was saving some cash to upgrade the stock brakes, but i noticed the steering wheel was vibrating some i resurfaced the stock rotors, after that i started becoming aware of the noise. then i just ordered the rotors and pads, noise was still there, then replaced guide pins, caliper mounting bolts pad retainer clips, lubed eveything up, noise still there. inspected front suspension and founf one outer tie rod end seeping a little grease, with the mileage i had i just went and bought a loaded subaru rack so everything was new. have not tried to downshift it because i can only hear it when i just about to come to a stop, the noise a clicking/creaking type noise is rythmic (rotional type noise?) starts to slow as the vehicle slows. i just added pics of my legay gt to the readers rides

i was thinking that too, i just could not figure out how come it only happens when hot would apply to axles, but i am open to that also, thanx

i have this strange noise and after replacing a few parts still cant fix it. so heres the deal, i have this strange clicking type noise coming from the front end only after the brakes and vehicle are hot, after repeated braking, and goes along with vehicle speed (1997 legacy gt). i can here it when braking 15 mph and under, it goes away when i lift my foot off the brakes, and did i mention that the vehicle need to be warm and only start after repeated braking.. i have recently installed brembo slotted rotors, ebc geen pads, all new brake hardware from the pad clips to the guide pins, and mounting hardware, the caliper pistons are not sticking, the brake fluid is fresh, and all the lines have been flushed. the noise was there before i installed all the new brake hardware. i just put a new subaru rack in today with brand new inner and outer tie rod ends. it was doin this with the old rack in it. the steering universal joint seems ok, i had someone shake the steering wheel back and forth while i held the universal joint and and i did not feel it binding and it moved freely when it was loose from the rack today. the front suspension is fine ie: struts, springs, ball joints, there is no movement or play. the nopise is not coming from the motor. i was wondering if anyone has encountered this before, i am a technician and either me nor any tech can figure it out. the car has never been in an accident, the alignment is in spec, the wheels are tight, the motor mounts are good. i was thinking either a front axle is starting to go?, a bearing in the front diff is starting to go? (it happens if the trans is in neutral, its an auto). the fluid in the front diff is still clear and was changed maybe 15-20 thousand miles ago, i was thinking maybe the diff fluid is heating up and causing a slight bind under load. i talked to some subaru techs and they cant really think of anything after i told them the symptoms. the car seems to drive fine. if anyone has any ideas it would be helpful. i think i got all the symptoms down, but ask away and i will try to answer them.

i would check the shift interlock assy.