88 EA82T
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Posts posted by 88 EA82T
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I have a slightly used all metal radiator that I will sell you for $75 shipped...
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If you have an external leak then you should try to fix it. I had the same motor in my car and I ended up replacing all the coolant lines just because they were old and I kept getting leaks.
The one in your picture is the coolant return from the bottom of the turbo and the supply line comes from the thermostat housing and runs under the intake manifold straight back to the turbo. I had to remove the turbo to replace that hose, it's not hard it just takes some time. I got the hose from the dealer along with the turbo inlet and outlet gaskets. No other place is going to stock that hose and it was about $28 bucks and comes with the heat shield on it. My turbo also had the white residue coming out of it like that but once I got all my leaks fixed it really didn't use too much coolant. I figured a little bit of coolant added at each oil change was cheaper than a new turbo. I wouldn't worry about it unless you are using a lot of coolant quickly.
You will get a lot of opinions on this board about the EA82 turbo's and how bad they are but most people that have had issues with them either tried to modify them and run more boost or got a motor that wasn't maintained well before they got it. If you know what it is capable of (not much) and watch the temperature gauge constantly (turn the AC off going up hills and sitting in traffic) it will run well for a long time. I also upgraded to a 2-row radiator which increases the cooling capacity but I am not sure what the XT's came with? So that would be something to check too.
Oh, just a naming mistake but your car doesn't have an intercooler. Intercoolers are a big radiators between the turbo and intake manifold to cool the air down after it gets compressed in the turbo so denser colder air is fed to the motor. Makes more power and helps the motor run cooler. The hood scoop on WRXs is to flow air over the intercooler for this purpose.
Good luck. Hopefully it isn't a head gasket.
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I like the floor mats.
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My 88 had a switch on the clutch and brake pedals that had to be met so that the cruise control would work. I had to put my foot under the clutch pedal and hold it up while I set the cruise so it would work.
There is a rubber pad on the clutch pedal assembly that just got compressed over time and the switch had pressed a dent into that was too deep to meet the switch. I put some tape over it as a spacer and now it works great.
Hopefully your issue is something easy like that. Oh, and since yours is a turbo it should have an electric vacuum pump. You should be able to hear it kick on if you turn the car to on and then turn the cruise control on. Good luck.
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I think the fuel pump on my 88 GL10 died. It doesn't make any noise when I try to start it and it won't start. It used to hum for a couple of seconds when you turned the key on. I still need to troubleshoot a bit more but I wanted to get some opinions on my options for replacement.
Looks like I have three options:
Bosch N69417 for $256 at the dealer
Carter pump for $140
Aerotec pump for $120 or so
They all seem really expensive for a car that is 23 years old. Anyone have experience with the aerotec pumps? Just looking for some advice. Thanks.
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Wow, that car is an absolute twin to mine!!! I grew up in Pendleton and my car is from Harley Swain in Hermiston.
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Just wondering if anyone knows of a good independent shop in Missoula?
I am looking at a 2004 WRX and would like to have a good mechanic check it out before I buy it. I'll post something over on NAISOC too. Thanks.
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Fixed two things in one day so it was a good way to close out 2010.
Finally replaced my hood release cable so I could put my grill back on after the cable broke 4 months ago. Then pulled the rear window wiper motor and regreased it. I have never seen the rear window wiper move so fast before!!!
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I have the same car. 1988 GL10 full time 4WD with a 5 speed and 216,000 miles. I have kept it stock except I upgraded to a two row radiator, put in an OEM thermostat along with NGK plugs and wires. I have an 02 WRX intercooler but I haven't got around to figuring out how to make it fit yet.
From my experience I would start by changing all the coolant lines and the intake manifold gaskets. I had been getting antifreeze leaks off and on until I finally got all of them replaced. I think the biggest thing to watch is the coolant temperature and make sure if it gets hot to back off and turn off the AC until it gets back to the normal temp. Mine runs at 3-4 bars up from the bottom on the digidash normally. Oil cooler is a good idea too. What cooler are you going to install? I am thinking of adding one too.
Uh, I was going to attach some pictures but it won't let me attach them since I used them in another thread?
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Got my throttle body preheat line to quit leaking green stuff... Couple of pics of my wagon too.
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Coolant level checks out good and there is no green stuff on top of the block. Hopefully that is the end of things for awhile....
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Well, I think I got it fixed. I ended up pulling the line off with some channel locks with the hose clamp still on it. There was no way I could get in there with a screwdriver to loosen the hose clamp on the intake manifold side. So the line was definitely not the right size, see the picture. The 1/4" line was pretty hard to get on so I cut it to length and put a screw driver in the line and used that along with my fingers to force the line on to the hose barb. Then I used a spring clamp to hold it on that end since there was no way to get a screw clamp in there and tighten it. Topped off the antifreeze and went for a test drive. No more leaking.
I win, finally and I didn't have to remove the intake manifold... Car made it 20 miles to work just fine so I will check the coolant level before I head home. Thanks for the help.
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So I did some more looking around for the leak and it is not any of turbo coolant lines, all those were replaced in the last 6 months. I topped off the coolant and ran it again for about 5 minutes and shut it off. Coolant started running off the back of the block on the passenger side and pooled up on the block between the thermostat housing and the throttle body. I was able to get a finger on the throttle body coolant line that is under the intake manifold and now I am sure that is where my leak is. The pictures shows the line that disappears under the intake. So I guess the next step is to pull the intake manifold...
So how hard is it to pull the intake manifold?
How much stuff do I have to pull off first?
Or will most flex enough I can get in there to replace the hose?
Can I reuse the intake manifold gaskets (they should be OEM)?
I think the source of my problem is when the guy replaced my intake manifold gaskets he replaced the throttle body coolant line but used 3/8" hose instead of 1/4" and tighten the crap out of the hose clamps. worked ok for a couple of months....
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Update; went out at break time to top off the coolant. It was down about 1/2" in the overflow jug and it was low in the radiator so I topped it off then started the engine to get any bubbles out. Seemed to be fine, shut it off started walking back inside, stopped talk to a buddy for a couple of minutes, looked back and there was a puddle of antifreeze under the car.... Not good. I really thought it was the throttle body preheat line but seemed to be dry on both ends. I can't see any leaks and all of the hoses I can see look to be dry? I can see antifreeze on top of the block and under the intake manifold on the passenger side but I really don't see where it is leaking from?
I really need some help here. Any ideas?????
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I guess I was just a little paranoid of the whole ebay thing but I am more paranoid of getting hit in the head by that damn tailgate again... It's hard to pick things out of the shopping cart and hold the tailgate up with your head especially when it's 0 degrees out. I'll get some new struts on order.
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I have an '88 GL10 with the MPFI turbo setup. I had the intake manifold gaskets replaced about 6 months ago along with the throttle body preheat coolant line. The preheat coolant line is now leaking at the end coming from the thermostat housing. There was enough slack in the line that I could take the hose clamp off, cut the hose and put it back in with a new hose clamp. That worked for about 2 weeks and now it is leaking again. When I pulled the line off to change the hose clamp, it seemed like the hose was loose going onto the barb and that the guy just tighten the crap out of the hose clamp when he put it back together.
So does anyone know what the correct size for that coolant line is supposed to be?
Is the only way to replace that line to remove the intake manifold?
Can I reuse the intake manifold gaskets?
Is it a tough job to remove the intake manifold?
Why does this always happen to me???
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Just wondering if anyone has ordered a set of these from Lift Supports Depot?
Any experiences to share? thanks.
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Upgraded to a 2-row radiator, now I can run the AC without the temp getting hot.
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you should ask for commission or something...
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Funny, I just put one in yesterday. I got mine from USA Radiators, part# 1269. The radiator itself is made by CSF. If you need the CSF number let me know, it is covered up the electric fan and I forgot to take a picture of it before I put the fan back on...
Just a note, I called USA Radiator before I bought mine to verify that it really was a 2-row radiator I was buying and their computer showed three in stock. I asked them to verify that they really were 2-row radiators and it turns out only one of them really was. So a word of caution, ask them to physically verify that it is a 2-row before they ship it to you.
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Well, I just replaced the coolant line in the picture on the bottom of the turbo which wasn't fun since I had to remove the turbo to get to it. I am sure all of the coolant lines are tight and not leaking so I am thinking it is something internal to the exhaust and/or the turbo.
My antifreeze looks green but I did just put a gallon in to top it off after the coolant line on the turbo split and I replaced it. I think my overflow bottle has gone down about 1/4" from full in the last 100 miles or so. If I do have a leak it is a pretty small one right now. I did see some brown sticky stuff on the radiator cap when I topped off the radiator. I am not smelling burning antifreeze in the car or out of the car.
Maybe it smokes a bit as car warms up? I was just chalking that up to cold mornings but maybe there is more to it?
What would the antifreeze look like if it had oil in it?
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I need some assistance/advice from those of you more experienced in turbos than I am... 1988 GL10 Wagon AWD MT 1.8L Turbo (obviously)
It looks like I am leaking coolant inside the turbo and it is coming out on the flange that connects to the exhaust pipe. You can see the white dried up stuff on the flange and where the waste gate actuator connects. I cannot see any white dried up stuff on either of the exhaust headers where they connect to the heads so hopefully it is not leaking at the headgaskets or from the heads. So I am guessing that the coolant is leaking in the turbo and getting blown into the exhaust then burning off. My coolant reservoir looses maybe a 1/4" of inch every couple of days and I do not have any other coolant leaks on the car. The oil on the dipstick looks like oil too.
So does it sound like it is just the turbo leaking coolant? Anything else I should check out?
Rear side window replacement on wagons?
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
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You need to determine if the old window is clipped in or glued in. I am assuming that you are talking about the rear quarter window and not the rear door window....
On my '88 GL10 the rear quarter window was glued in. I tried to buy a window from the local junkyard but they broke it trying to get it out because of the glue and their delicate technique. So I ended up having the body shop change it out for me, they got me a used window and installed it for less then $100 if I remember correctly. Hope this helps.