G1988L

Yeah, I actually fastened the heat shield back down about a month ago, it doesn't move but I guess it might still rattle, maybe I didnt get back on as well as I thought. As far as the injector goes im going to check and see if it leaks, though Im pretty sure it does since the gaskets soaked through and there's gas on the outside of the TB. I guess I'll need to find a used TB or injector then? or is there some kind of way I could rebuild it/make it work the way its supposed to?

Alright thanks, drove it today then checked to see if i got any different codes, and I did, 14 abnormal injector output, and I noticed gas seems to be seeping out through the gasket on the throttle body, if the injector is leaking this would explain why the engine runs good when cold because cold engines like more fuel, then when it gets warm it doesnt want that extra fuel. Am I on to something here? -Oh yeah, I think this problem may have been building up for awhile now, considering there's a horrible rattling sound coming from under the car, pretty sure the catalytic converter is about to eat it..probably from the overly rich exhaust

Alright I reckon I'll get the timing exact first, the only thing is I dont own a timing light, How much should I spend? does price matter? Im seeing a broad price range out there from $19 to $180

I did think of that..but what should I do? I remember back in the summer when I would run the a/c the car would always overheat, with it off the temp. would stay dead steady, so my guess would be the electric fan was never cutting in, its controlled by the CTS right? what Im getting at here is since its only when the engine has warmed up this might be it? but it starts fine no matter how cold or warm it is outside ex. it was 10F outside this morning,and 55 this afternoon..started fine. Ideas?

Thanks! I found that the solenoid is causing a vacuum leak, but its just slowing down the idle a little not really a catastrophic problem. I checked everything I could think of, switched out wires with the old ones ect., then the last thing I tried was the MAF (I just thought "why not?"), unplugged it. bam. no miss. perfect. plugged it back in and it was missing again. so Im guessing this means I'll need a new (different) one. I did clean it not long ago, used rubbing alcohol (searched it on the internet said it was the cheapest best way), did that screw it up?

Ok, well i looked at the cel code under the dash, (red light flashing led right?) three long, five short. 35 Purge Control Solenoid or Circuit. what is this? would it cause the miss?

Well couldn't find any vacuum leaks(visible anyway) the one thing i do know is the part i broke the vacuum hook up off, is labeled in the diagram under the hood as "Solenoid Valve VI" i used rtv around it but that may not have done it, would this part make it miss at idle, Ive gotten pretty familiar with the engine over the last week or so but never really found out what these solenoid valves are (theres two right near each other). I also still need the procedure for setting the ignition timing correctly. I drove it today and it ran great when moving but the lower idle's a little scary at stoplights

Yea I def. need to get the timing exact, how do you do that? I just have it where it will run and drive for now, Thanks

Ahh, I'll check that out tomm. now the plastic end of a little module next to the t-stat broke off but i put rtv around it so i assume its ok now, but i'll check out the other lines. Thanks

Alright, NEW cap, rotor, wires, NGK plugs, O2 sensor, and before this stuff i replaced the timing belts, (because the water pump went). I had to take off the distributor because the screw holding in the rotor would not come out, I put back the dist. at as close to where it was before, started a litlle twisting of the dist. it seemed fine. Except now it must not be quite right because when its warmed up it idles lower and a little rough, oh did i mention the new stuff did absolutely nothing at all, still has a putt in the exhaust AFTER its warmed up when you first start it it runs fine,getting frustrated, 60 more dollars into this car for nothing.. WHATS GOIN ON WITH THIS THING?

Easy on the Ford,Chevy, American made hating, I had an 86 Ranger that was a great truck, body didnt rust like my Soob, nor did it ever break down on me once (soob only has once). Im not saying Ford is better than subaru or vice versa I love my Subaru, but with any of these older cars its normally the neglect of previous owners that cause the problems. All brands of cars break down..period I never have understood how people get so caught up in a brand they think its invincible, none of them are. I know most opinions come from personal (usually bad) experience but most people dont remember that there are other people who have had good experiences as well. Just saying the brand vs brand saying the other is all crap is kinda dumb....dont hate I thought id throw in my opinion

Thanks, I ordered the parts today. One more question, why is it that it only misses at idle after it has already warmed up enough to slow the idle speed?

Alright, I've just finished a bunch of maintenance on my 88 wagon n/a 1.8 it runs great now compared to before but it has a miss when its idling now. im not loaded with money so i haven't replaced the cap and rotor yet i'm sure it needs to be done, and since part of problem before was the pcv was completely clogged solid hoses and all, I bet it needs a new o2 sensor as well. what else would cause ths miss? btw i used autolite plugs i heard thats a no no

ahhh yess! I was really hoping the pan could stay on considering it looks like a pita to get off in the car, and the valve covers leak a little bit anyway (all the more reason to take them off and reseal) and theres no way they arn't filled up with that crud. It's gonna snow and ice here tomorrow so no school, now i know what i'll be doing(besides putting the rest of it back together) Thanks!

Thanks, I know i'll be replacing all the hoses and pcv, (hoses all broke or cracked when i wiggled them loose) I guess my real question is should I take off the valve covers,clean them out ect. then drop the pan and clean it out there must be an outstanding amount of crud in them?

Hey everyone, I just found that the pcv system on my ea82 (165k) is stopped up and when i say stopped up i mean fully no way anything was getting through there, but only the drivers side hoses and valve cover are like this. yes the cel was on for a loong time, my uncle gave me the car he never had it fixed i figured id wait to do anything about it. knowing all this build-up is inside the valve cover. does this mean the gritty substance (carbon?) is getting down in my oil and wearing out all the internals? so should I take off the valve covers and drop the pan to clean out this crud as well? I can't believe how well the car ran before the water pump went out and forced me to tear into this thing,literally could not hear it running cruising..

Thanks everyone!

I'm in the middle of replacing the water pump on my 88 GL Wagon, when taking off the bolts that hold on the water pump, the head on the first one broke right off no problem some vice grips fixed that, the others came out no problem (all very rusty)except one bolt is shorter than the others and after the one broke im fearing the rest of the one may still be in the block, are all the bolts the same length? if they are im in trouble, how can i fix this?