shortskoolbus
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Posts posted by shortskoolbus
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it's a 97 Legacy
When taking them out i just popped them out with the wheel lug by leveraging against the diff... but don't have anything to leverage against going the other way now.
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I swapped out my diff and am not sure how to get the rear axles back in. Obviously i just need to push them hard enough, but i can't get enough leverage on anything.
Any tips to get them back in?
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yeah i've done that job before as well with no help from equipment = rough.
rear seals plain suck, there's a number of folks that have had problems getting them to reseal properly.
was it leaking to begin with or why did you replace it?
I replaced it because i was back there for the oil separator... lesson learned, never touch that rear main seal unless it is leaking.
If that thing is still leaking this time, i'm not doing it again.. it's going into the mechanic.
I did make one mistake though which i hope doesn't come back to haunt me... i only torqued the drive plate bolts down to 40 ft-lb instead of 52 ft-lb.. for some reason i remembered them as 40. I did use loctite though, so i figure it should be okay... or i hope i should say..
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For the future, it would be easier to unbolt the engine mount, torque converter, and exhaust bolts. Remove the radiator.
Then using a jack under the engine just lift and roll it forward in the engine bay.
I would never choose to pull a 4EAT out the bottom unless it HAD to come out.
5speeds are easy, but 4EATs are too heavy for all that jazz.
everyone says its easier to pull the motor.. but there are so many more steps/connections!
and what about the AC? You have to recharge it again after that?
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7 bolts sounds right..
sorry i don't have any other advice then. I don't think the seal from the factory sealant should be that difficult to break though
How did you try to break it? You said you used a piece of wood? Are you trying to pry it away from the block or loosen it by knocking it to the side? I don't think it will knock loose to the side because there should be dowel pins also on the block.
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make sure you have ALL the bolts out..
On the EJ 22 there's one right in the center of the pump too. The seal should break pretty easily if its the original.
I had the same problem, and then realized one of the bolts were still in.
And then just take a pry bar and leverage it out.
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so i tried to drill the hole, my drill is too wimpy.
i ended up not doing it.. :-\, but the threads that were there seem okay still, i just used plenty of loctite.
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just finished putting my 4EAT back in... for the second time..
changed the rear main (again) and resealed the oil separator plate since i can't say for sure what was leaking from the first time i did it.. put a thin coat of sealant around the outside of the rear main which will hopefully prevent any leaks in the event that i stupidly installed it wrong again...
if that thing is still leaking, i'm letting the mechanic do it. pulling the transmission twice is more than i would like already...
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just picked the helicoil kit
didnt come with a tap handle or drill bit, but looks pretty straight forward.
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Hey guys I need some help.
I cross threaded one of the tabs on my torque converter the last time I put my tranny back on. Because it wasn’t in a position where I could tape it out and put a helicoil in (without pulling the tranny again) I had to just run a M8 x 1.25 tap right through it which I think just chopped off the top of the peaks of each thread.. Now I have the tranny out again I want to fix that hole.
I’ve never done this before, but I think its just a matter of tapping the hole out to the bigger size and then threading the helicoil in. Do I need to drill out the hole at all or can I just start tapping with the larger tap since there are still threads there.
Do I just use a tap one size up?
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The seperator plate is ALWAYS a good idea to re-seal.
Well I just did the plate a few weeks ago... i'm only back in there again because something is still leaking.
but i can't say for sure the plate isn't also the culprit, so maybe i'll do it just for good measure.
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Few weeks ago i pulled the tranny, changed the oil separator plate... and thought heck might as well do the rear main.
Well, this is what the rear main looks like today...
First picture has some coolant on it thats why it's green, but the second picture is just the oil.. It's actually pretty dirty back there in general so i really can't tell for sure that its the rear main, but looking closely i can see oil at the edges... so i think it's safe to say that it is the rear main..?
I learned my lesson about that seal - if it's not leaking, don't touch it.
I'm just debating if i should reseal my oil separator.. i'm pretty sure it's not leaking.. but can't say for sure.
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when i asked him why he couldnt get it into spec his response was "old suspension" and the recommended fix was "camber kit"... if the root cause is old suspension, wouldnt' changing the worn suspension components be the logical next step? camber kit? ....
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i think the FSM says less than 1" of deflection but i can't remember what the force is supposed to be...
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Well, i buy them from Subaru then, whether or not they are OEM, they are from subaru
geez, picky!
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i think used driveshafts are like 100 bucks on ebay.
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My car is an SOHC, i know that o-ring doesnt even belong on my engine at all...
For the oil pump o-ring, the one i was given was just a regular o-ring. It appeared to be a little small for the recess but i figured it would expand when compressed so i used it anyway. It was really loose and barely balanced within the recess, i even had to use lots of grease to get it to stick in there. Strangely it looked a lot like the one i removed from the pump, it even had a bit of blue hue to it just like the new one i got. it was definately suspect at the time, but i put the oil pump back on anyway.... thank god i saw the photo that porcupine posted that made me ask for the oil pump o-ring while i was at the dealer just incase...
The correct o-ring that i just got looks like the one in porcupines other post where he showed that oil pump in a photo, it's an o-ring with a small ridge on it. I re-did the oil pump last night, the new o-ring is a really snug and perfect fit inside the recess on the block.
phew...
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Look at the last few pages of this thread:
http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=98200&page=5
The method used to break the bolt loose can also be used to tighten it.
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C'mon give me some credit here, it's a brand new OEM belt!
but the tensioner only applies tension on the drivers side between the crankshaft sprocket and cam, no?
Hmm.. or wait maybe it does tighten up after some revolutions... now that i think about it.
I gotta stop overthinking everything..
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i've removed and re-installed my timing belt probably close to 8 times since the weekend for various reasons (wrong o-rings on oil pump and camshaft support).
I've noticed that the belt seems to have a stretched a bit.. and in fact it's not very tight at all between the crank sprocket and the passenger side camshaft... is that normal? there's no tensioner on that side, so the tension is purely between the belt and it's teeth.
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basically 100 ft lb.
the belt is tensioned by a hydraulic tensioner it's not adjustable.
Hm i have a 97 L too.. everyone is talking about a rubber thing? i'm really confused, my crank pulley is all metal.. something amiss on my car?
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I don't know if my car is different or what, but i don't see any rubber.. it's metal on metal right on the woodruff key
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Well basically he said it's because i need new struts.
I didn't really see why that would affect the alignment, if anything sagging springs more so?
Camshaft pulley holding tool
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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easy. break the bolts before removing the crank pulley.
however you held the crank pulley will hold the cam sprockets also so long as the timing belt is still on.