shortskoolbus
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Posts posted by shortskoolbus
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wow.. sorry no advice here but good luck... 5MT i assume? it's probably 150 lbs or so.. you should be able to pick it up but probably not from any awkward positions
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You mention you have a FSM; check the transmission and rear diff sections to get info. I have a FSM for my '97 Impreza and it indicates the the automatic front diff ratio is 4.111. It also indicates that the is an ID stamped in the rear housing of the rear diff. It runs vertically between the two vertical bolts on the left side. For an EJ22 equipped automatic the rear diff is identified by VA1REF-XG and would be 4.111. Remember this is an Impreza FSM. I don't know if the Legacy is the same.
I don't think it's necessary to replace the side seals unless they are leaking already.
Thanks. Well actually i thought the FSM was pretty clear the drive ratio i'm looking for is a 4.111.
This is for the transmission:
This is for the differential:
But based on the information in this thread it made me doubt if those tables are 100% correct... such as there might possibly be some known variations not documented in the FSM.
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How do I hold the crank pulley when removing the bolt?
I have a breaker bar and a 22mm socket but it's moving and I cannot get the bolt off.
just on the passenger side below the throttle body is a black plastic piece. It helps to take the air box off to see it. Take taht plastic piece off and you will see the drive plate. They say to stick a pry bar down into there to hold the crank while you break the bolt.
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Thanks Guys. Sounds easier than i thought. The FSM had included a bunch of steps like loosing the handbrake cable clamps and the front member mounting points, etc. Actually i think it says to remove the whole rear diff with the front member still attached to the car...
How do i know what the drive ratio is for my transmission?
Also, is it necessary to replace the side seals before i put the new (used) diff back in?
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there are two possible gear ratios, make sure it matches. don't bother worrying about year/models, just check it to be sure. rotate and count revolutions. there's 3.9, 4.11, and 4.44.
rear differentials are REALLY easy to replace. did you say you did a transmission? rear diffs are cake compared to that. no special tools needed at all.
each model,trans, engine, etc has slight variations but you can just unbolt the 4 bolts at the rear diff where the driveshaft attaches. then it's completely free from the diff, no need to mess with the rest of the driveshaft, pulling it from the trans or the exhaust in the way.
i haven't done a legacy but in the past i've dropped the diff, leaving it still connected to the axles and then that gives enough room to work the axles off.
on the old school diffs there were only 3 bolts holding the diff in place. so remove those and the 4 12mm driveshaft bolts and you're done except the axles.
PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench or whatever your favorite penetrant is for those rusty driveshaft bolts. They're not all that tight, so spray them and they should come off. Make sure to use a good SIX POINT wrench on them, not a 12. If you have a torch, hit the nut real quick then bust it loose right away just for good measure.
Thanks. Actually driveshaft bolts are in great shape. I had the driveshaft off for the tranny already anyway. I'm just a little concerned because it's a lot of steps in the FSM. And now i'm also concerned whether or not i have the right ratio...
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What are you striking with the mallet? Do you put something on the other end to cap off the pipe?
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I'm with bheinen74 on this. Being AWD, your car has two differentials, One in the front that looks like part of the tranny, and one in the rear, that looks like any RWD diff. The ratios on these two differentials have to match, or you will damage the AWD mecanism of your transmission. It will physically fit, but that is only half the story. let's first be sure that it is the right diferential, then we will help you get it into the car.
First things first: is the tranny original to your car? If not, what is it out of? Do you know the final ratio of the tranny?
Next, do you know the final ratio of the Diff? There may be a sticker on the back to tell you what this ratio is.
The tranny is original to the car, I havent recieved the rear differential yet, so I will have to check. How can i check the ratio of the tranny?
I thought there was only one gear ratio for the 2.2L 4EAT which is 4.111? Unless that's not the same as the drive ratio...
You guys are worrying me.
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why do you think your rear diff is bad, they rarely ever go bad, but rather a lot of times torque bind, etc, shutter, people think it the rear diff, but it is really the rear clutchpacks, center diff of the tranny.....
you might be in a world of hurt with this " it was advertised as fitting 95-99 Impreza/Legacy 4EAT."
yeah, it will fit, but might not have the correct drive ratio......you need to post more info on here, BEFORE you ruin a tranny or something else.
I know the rear diff is bad because i am getting a pretty bad howl and chatter from the rear. I listened to it with a stethescope and it is definitely coming from the differential.
I've heard that they rarely fail, so I ruled out all options including listening to the wheel bearings with a stethescope and making sure no play in the drive shaft.
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Oops, some how i thought the year and model of my car would show up from my profile.
Its a 97 Legacy L Wagon 4EAT.
The diff should be the right one, it was advertised as fitting 95-99 Impreza/Legacy 4EAT.
I just dont know how difficult it's gonna be. My mechanic will do it for $200, but if its not a big job i'd rather just do it myself. But the last thing i did myself (rear main) i apparently screwed up pretty bad :-\
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Correct me if i'm wrong, but I thought "the right stuff" was not anaerobic? There aren't many anaerobic options out there, there's a permatex gasket maker or something like that, loctite515 if i'm not mistaken.
I've been using Hondabond HT
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No i just plan to do a direct swap.
The diff i just bought for the bad diff on my car
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Did a search for this but didn’t have much luck. Is it difficult to remove and replace the rear differential? I just pulled my 4EAT a few weeks ago, so I had all the tools needed to do that, I’m assuming that should be adequate for this job.
I just picked up a used rear diff off of Ebay. Looking at the FSM it looks like a lot of steps to swap the rear differential though. I have a few questions after looking at the FSM:
1) How do I get the rear drive shafts out of the diff? The FSM calls out some special tool.
2) FSM says to replace the side seals, is this pretty straight forward? Take out old seal, drive new seal in? I can do it on the new diff while it is out of the car i assume. It also has some special tools to “protect” the seals when re-installing drive shafts... will that be necessary?
3) Do i really need to remove the propeller shaft? i don't want to drop the exhaust if i don't have to... the bolts at the different sections are all rusted together so i have to drop it in two big rump roast pieces or end up breaking a bunch of bolts.. thats a real PITA.
Any other tips? Thanks,
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On the front, rear or cam seals or any of the tranny or diff seals, you apply a thin coat to the outer edge to seal it to the casing. It prevents oil seepage between the case and outer seal housing. Really helps if the seal is not inserted properly and may have a slight dent or ridge on the edge from pushing it in.
I have seen many seals replaced and leaking, not from the rotating seal itself, but from the housing. It's easy to put sealer on and prevent having to do the job a second time.
thanks. i wish i had known better when replacing my rear main...
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Well i found it kind of odd that they would say to apply sealant to the seal itself
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Well here are the other icons:
This is the rear main, i'm pretty sure that this icon means grease -
Oil filter, so this must mean oil
And here's another same as the earlier one on the oil pan, which is why I think it's sealant.
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Valve covers are bone dry.
What is the rear cam seal? Is that the cam shaft support o-ring? It was leaking but I changed the one on the passenger side, will be changing the other side when i do the t-belt.
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I'm pretty sure it means to apply sealant, but what does it mean when its on the crank seal? (and the cam seals) Am i supposed to apply sealant on the seals?
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Okay here's what i would like to know.
If the rear main seal is leaking, where exactly does it leak down onto? And how much of it would i see on the back of the drive plate?
There's a possibility its my oil pan leaking... I cleaned it off, drove it around, and i can only see oil dripping off of my jack plate. I don't see any on the crossmember though, on the inside or outside... or on the oil pan. it just seems to be magically appearing...
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Here's an idea.
Update your profile so that we know where you're at!!!
If you don't want to tackle this someone here may be able to recommend a shop.
If it's a shop unfirmiliar with Suby's you might as well do it yourself again.
I have a great shop
but if i bring it there that means the subaru won... and my pocket is lighter. 
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maybe pull all the PCV hoses and make sure something isn't clogged? sounds like the crankcase is over-pressurized. i had an XT6 like that, it was so bad that oil was coming out from the bolts that hold the case halves together!!! i replaced a lot of stuff, though i never found out why. it ran and drove really well.
I took off the hoses coming from the crankcase valve to the PCV valve, ran carb cleaner through all of them and made sure they werent clogged. There's really only a couple of really short hoses.
I'll check the valve cover breather hoses tonight.
you probably drove the rear main in past being flush, installed it too far.. it may eventualy lessen the leaking, but probably not. It will need re-done.The first one I replaced because it was leaking, drove it in all the way, man it leaked for a while, but then the leaking pretty much ended after about 2000 miles. That car is still going and never used enough oil to ever go low (my old purple wagon)
Actually, if anything I think i didn't drive it in far enough because i had it flush with the top of the 45 degree chamfer, i've read it needs to be flush with the inner ring of that chamfer...
Maybe because i didn't drive it in uniformly it didn't seat properly.
Man i'm debating if I should do it again myself or have someone do it for me... i dont want to go through all that just to do it wrong again.
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Yea - don't touch the rear main.
I don't believe that you answered the question on what brand of seals that you did use.
I'll never touch the rear main again...
I should have just changed the oil separator. Damn me. I used OEM seals. Mileage is about 100k.
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The car is a 1997 Legacy L Wagon
I replaced the PCV with an OEM valve, i went back and put the old valve on anyway since I tested it and it seems to be working fine anyway and I wanted to rule out having a bad one from the factory.
I realize now i should have left that rear main alone... But i don't understand why all my front seals started leaking now also. Engine is running fine, I don't get blue smoke. It's all leaks. I get like 5 drops after i park, 3-4 in the front off of the t-belt cover and then a big one from the jack plate which is coming from the rear main.
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I had a small leak dripping onto the y-pipe and giving off smoke and bad smells... So a few weeks ago i replaced the rear main and oil separator plates.
Now all of my front seals are leaking and the rear main is leaking again too... I didn't have any leaks in the front before!
I changed out my PCV valve while i was doing the rear main as well, but i checked that the new one was fully functional before I did it.
Any other ideas why my front seals would start leaking? And is there any tricks to installing the rear main properly? Since apparently I didn't...
Some of the grease on the inside rubbed off on the packaging that it came in, i didn't apply any extra. When installing the rear main i took a piece of wood and worked around the seal and tapped it in with a hammer against the wood until it was flush... Did i do something wrong here?
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Hmm that never occured to me, maybe i'll try filling up with the car on and see if that makes any difference.
Removing/replacing rear diff... need advice
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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Yup, top chart is for the 4EAT only
Thanks for all of the advice. Just gotta wait for the diff to get in now!
I'm sure i'll be back here when i get stuck taking that thing out, its never as easy at it sounds.