Baronpilot

I replaced the CTS and broke the connector and had a hell of a time finding a replacement, but finally did. Found a cracked crankcase ventilation hose coming out of the block near the CTS. It's about .75 inch diameter. Replaced that. Idle surge is all gone, now IAC is working great. All new vacumn and ventilation hoses probably helped. I STILL have the rich idle problem. So, now that I've ruled out the CTS, what would be the next step?

Thanks for the advice. After some searching, I finally found one at a two wrecking yard and they charged me $15. Subaru dealer said "We only sell the complete harness" and I guess the wrecking yard guy knew that. Thanks to the great advice on here I got it off and replaced the connector body. Anyway, it's back together. Thanks for the help.

So I need to insert somthing into the pin gap to release a catch then the pins will pull out from the backside? I won't need to cut the wire? That would be best. should I come from the wire side or or the other side? Thanks for the reply!

'96 OB 2.5 I was replacing the CTS (Coolant Temp. Sensor) and I broke the connector in the wiring harness. I'm an engineer, comfortable with tech stuff. I'm worried about botching the repair and getting problems down the road...so...any ideas? I'm thinking I could try to find one at a junk yard (these sensors seem common...any idea what cars I can look at?) by that I mean a connector on a harness. Cut it off and splice it into the car.

OK, minor setback... I broke the connector in the wiring harness that goes to the CTS. So now I'm writing a post looking for advice on fixing this... Please reply if you have any suggestions....

Thanks John. Also found this post: http://www.lovehorsepower.com/SubaruDocs/CoolantTempSensor.html ...methinks I will not be placing a DVM on this very easily. Looks like I'll have to pull it to test it.

I'm having problems finding the CTS sensor. I've got one that looks like it in the front of the block, but it only has one wire and the parts diagram shows two. Manuals tell me to look under the intake manifold but am not having luck finding it. This is a 96 Outback 2.5 Liter. Any help would be appreciated.

OK, I'll check the CTS tomorrow and post results. I found I can get one from NAPA for about $20. More later.... Aloha

Hi Olnick, Just noticed you're in Honolulu. That is where I used to fly a baron! I used to live in Aina Haina. When you had a bad CTS on your '95 legacy and it went "open loop" (Saab used to call that limp home mode) did it turn on your CEL light? (Check engine light) My CEL is not on.

OK, one post said that a bad CTS (coolant time sensor) will result in flooding during warm engine restart. This car starts and runs great, warm or cold. Still think it might be a CTS? Any other symptoms?

Thanks, Olnick. 1. The surging idle is gone, don't know if it was the vacuum lines or the Seafoam in the input to the IAC valve. In any event, since it seems to be able to control the idle better I thought I would leave well enough alone. The idle surges whenver I push on the brake pedal (idleing, in Park) and then settles right down after a couple of oscillations, so I figure the IAC is fine. Do you think that could cause the rich idle mixture? 2. I cleaned the MAF sensor by spraying the wire with the C&C MAF cleaner stuff. It's clean. 3. I will check and clean the front O2 sensor. Is that the one that I see on the passenger side, just behind the engine? 4. Coolant temp sensor...cost is $40 at Autozone. I will look in manual for testing tips before I replace. That's a good idea.

First post. '96 Outback 2.5 Auto Executive summary: Smog test fail, rich idle, No CEL. Mechanic advises could be Fuel Pressure Regulator, MAF sensor or MP sensor. Any tips? ------- Long Story: I'm trying to help a little old lady with her Subaru. Failed smog. Shop changed O2 sensor, gave up. 2nd shop changed Knock sensor, gave up. Two sensors and frustrated mechanics cost $700. So, I stepped into this mess to help out a friend. When I got the car the major symptom was a surging idle. I decided to work on that before getting another smog test. Changed air filter, Oil and filter. Cleaned IAC valve by pooring a small amount of Seafoam in it, twice. Changed all small vacuum lines. Cleaned MAF sensor with spray, per the procedure on this forum. Idle surge is gone. Car runs well, but upon taking it to my friendly (really, he is...) smog check guy he told me it was "full rich" at idle. Suggested it is one of three things. 1. Fuel Pressure Regulator 2. MAF sensor 3. MAP sensor (Vacuum sensor) Should I test fuel pressure to rule out Fuel Pressure Regulator? Any tips for sorting this out, or experienced guesses? Below are notes from the shops: Shop 1: No notes. changed O2 sensor Shop 2: Check Engine light is on also run too rich at idle speed. Scanner Check shows P0505 Idle Control System. Check for Rich Condition, No codes are present. Scanner Data Shows a Oxygen Sensor Bank 1 sensor 1 stay at .000 MV. Customer replace Oxygen sensor and still not working. We installed a computer and still no change at all. Installed back original computer. Shop 3: Customer states car will not pass smog check. Engine light is on. Check and advise. See attached paper work. Dignostics based on symptoms actual time used for confirming and diagnosing problem with car. Includes time to road test, hook up test equipment and trace problem to it's cause. Check engine light is on check and advise. **** Scanned computer P0325 Knock Sensor Circuit 1 Bank 1. Checked resistance at Knock Sensor (specs are 400K ohms or more) No resistance @ sensor. Recommend replacing Knock sensor and rechecking. Remove and Replace Knock sensor on vehicle. Old sensor had no resistance and causing MIL light to come on. Cleared code and test drove 10 miles and light stayed off. Rechecking .87V - .86V at idle, readings at 2500 RPM .81V-.83V, sensor is staying rich and not switching properly. Install new sensor. After replacing B1S2 O2 sensor mechanic rechecked readings are still the same .81V - .90V staying rich on the downstream side. Re-installed old sensor back in vehicle. Have checked MAF (Mass Air Flow), TPS (Throttle position sensor) etc... Vehicle does have unsteady idle until unplugged TPS sensor and idle steady's out at about 1500 RPM. TPS 0.60V closed throttle, 4.45V wide open throttle. MAF KOEO 0.00, idle 3-4 GS. Called Dealer and spoke to a mechanic to try to get some insight of what step needs to be taken. Was not able to get any info to help cause. recommend taking vehicle to dealer for further diagnosing. Thanks for your time. I'll post results.