dcmille290

Sounds like a plan. Thanks, now if it would stop raining. David

Hi everyone, OK, first off I'd like a weber and eliminate the Hitachi but cannot right now The issue is, engine idles well, revs fine but when you get to a small hill at 30 mph the tach starts bouncing up and down and the car feels like a bucking bronc. I cannot figure out where this issue is coming from. Most issues with the GL have been easy to fix. The engine was replaced before I bought it, so I have no idea if something wasn't connected right when the engine swap was done and the shop that did it doesn't exist anymore. 1987 GL Wagon, EA82. Any suggestions would be appreciated. The vacuum lines are a nightmare under the hood of these. Thanks, David

Should have let you all know what condition the engine is in. I maintain it really well, it's got new plugs, wires, distributor cap & rotor, and I have checked all of the vacuum lines as best as possible. I have also thought about the exhaust system. When it's cold I warm the engine up, and when it idling up it never really seemed like much was exiting the exhaust tailpipe compared to how fast the engine was revving. How can I tell if that could be the case? Thanks, David

My 1987 EA82 GL lately has not been able to go up a hill. It warms up fine, goes down hills OK, but even at 50 when I start going up a hill the engine spits and sputters and feels like it isn't getting fuel. Sometimes I have had problems with it going over 50, but most of the time it just hills. I am open to any advise, I'd like to get this resolved before Winter gets here. Thanks, David

Wow, that had to be one of the worst rear drum brake rebuilds I have ever done. The linings were fairly easy to replace and re-install, as was the cylinder. The biggest issue was trying to get the hub back on over the new linings. I backed the self adjuster back as far as possible and they appeared to still be out way too far. The wheel cylinder was all the way in, so that wasn't an issue, so when it was almost dark, I left the adjuster off and managed to get the hub back on the axle. If anyone has any experience with putting the rear brakes together, please let me know. I am going to try and get the right side done this weekend. Thanks, David

Thanks guys for the help. I stopped today at my buddies tire shop and his 1/2" impact wrench busted them loose in a heartbeat. I tightened them up to drive the 6 miles back home, now I am attempting to get the whole thing back together again. David

I found a leak on the inside of the LR tire this morning on the way to work, and little to no brake pedal. I suspect a blown wheel cylinder. I tried in vain to remove the castle nut, forget it. Not rusted, the threads are really clean. I just cannot budge it loose. Also, what is the torque for read wheels, GL wagon? I read somewhere it was possible to remove the hub without taking off the castle nut? If this is true can someone tell me how that is possible? I am stopping at a buddies shop this morning to see if he can break the nuts loose for me, then I'll limp it home and finish the cylinders and linings. Thanks, David

OK....I'll give you all the long story. Bought an 87 GL wagon, nice condition, sat without running for 4 years. Bought it, added some gas to carb, jumped old battery and drove it home. It barely made it up hill from town, clacked, like a valve slapping, really badly, not much power. History: Old owner was told she needed another engine, small shop in a small town changed it with one from JY. I found a package in the rear storage compartment with a timing belt in it? Wonder why. I decided to back off the timing and see if it quieted down the valve clacking. Found I had to back it off as far as it would go. Drives OK. New plugs and wires and about 12 miles a day for the last 2 years. I have a feeling the shop did something incorrectly in regard to the timing, I have no light to check it with. I can remove the timing covers if needed to see if the timing marks are correct. I did find the small flywheel inspection cover under the back seat? Now it seems to stumble when trying to climb a hill, gas mileage is really poor and the only time is seems fine is idling and revving. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated. There are also several vacuum lines in and around the engine compartment that are plugged off. May or may not be an issue. I am sure the engine is an EA82, but maybe a different engine was in it before? Don't know. Thanks in advance, David

OK, got it running, after holding the carb wide open with the pedal, got it cleared up and a normal idle. Took it for a drive, and about 3 miles it started acting like it was out of gas. Finally stalled, I held the pedal down, got a semi idle, finally revved it up and got a normal idle again. Last test drive was great. Ran it hard and it isn't acting up. I feel it may be a stuck float flooding the carb. I'll find out more in the morning. Thanks guys, David

Checked the marks, and they line up where they are supposed to be. I haven't changed anything since it quit running on a trip yesterday. I just went out and dumped more gas in the carb, held the butterfly open and got it running, kinda. It is stumbling really badly, not knocking or anything just sounds like it is only running on 2 cylinders or 1 ? Belts are still all off so I cannot leave it running too long. I will do some more checking. David

Good news, after about an hour I got the covers off the front, and both belts are OK, and not broken. So, I went back to the rotor, and it seems now that last night when I bumped the engine over the rotor landed in the same position it started, twice! I checked the coil spark, good. Now I checked the plug wires and I have a spark at the plug. Pulled the fuel line from the cab, turned key on and I have fuel from the pump. I then poured some fuel into the carb and it still won't fire. Now what? I have spark at the plugs, fuel pumping into the carb but it won't fire??? Thanks, David

I cannot begin to tell you all how lucky I feel to have found this forum and a thread with my issues. Thanks to all of you. I have been turning wrenches since I was 8, and have never had to do a timing belt job. The rotor is not turning on 87 GL wagon, 1.8 so a quick Google brought me here. The service manual makes this look really complicated, but the directions here make me feel it's not that bad. I guess my reluctance is getting these timing marks the way they should be. I do understand that I have to remove the R side belt, to change the L side. Is it possible I did damage to anything by trying to start it if the belt is broken? Can someone give me some direction when it comes to putting it back together with all marks right, so it will run? This is our only car and I need it to get to work and back daily. Thanks in advance, David