doc526
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Posts posted by doc526
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I get the rain X brand from wal-mart. I am pretty happy with them.
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When I started this ordeal a while back, the first question I wondered is how exactly does the computer determine a misfire. From what I have seen and read, the computer looks at the crank sensor and if it determines that the crank speed is different than what it is looking for, it throws the code.
Some of the things I asked myself were what would cause a cylinder to slow down? My inital answer, poor ignition. Next questions was what parts are associated with that? Etc and go from there.
I would start with the simple things first. Pull the plugs and check. Pull the crank sensor and check. I have heard about crud building up on the sensor causing them to drop the magnetic field that triggers them. Spray the coil with water. Check your timing.
Since it is happening at idle it seems that it what ever is causing it is pretty severe.
Then if you do start changing parts, go one at a time. This way you can be certain that you have actually fixed what was wrong.
If I had not had an issue with a Hyundai I once owned, I would of called BS on the plug wire issue. I went through 4 sets of aftermarket wires before I returned them and bought OEM wires.
Hope that helps.
Dean
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well the other platinum plugs are only $15 so only 5 more.. if it was a sohc I would not bother with the platinum plugs. Funny thing is if I have a misdirected on 1-3 how is it still pretty smooth giving the firing order... Maybe its my exhaust leak right at the header output?
Mine never gave any symptoms of a misfire either. The code usually occured durning high speed cruising on the highway and the light would start flashing.
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Im with Fairtax. The standard plugs seem to be ok. Im still running the same plugs and Yazaki wires from when I last posted. I pulled the plugs about a month ago and they still look ok, I might change them as it has been 2 years and about 40K since then.
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Here is the repair I did along with a write up. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/109623-shifter-linkage-replacement/
From a wear stand point, I suppose the thing that the most damage would occur where there is metal to metal contact on the knucle where the bushings are worn out. Mine was rattling and being annoying so I changed it.
Good luck.
Dean
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According to the document for troubleshooting that was posted above, 150 milliamperes should be the maximum draw in standby.
I would think that since Subaru posted that in 2008 and it says that it is for all models it should be good for the 06 model.
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I have put the tone rings on and made them reasonalby tight with an allen wrench. You know, not Bruce Banner tight but nice and tight.
On a second note, something I have not seen mentioned is that you might want to remove the ABS sensor from the knucke if possible. This way when you hit the stud with the hammer you don't impart severe shock to the sensor.
Has any one done this without removing the sensor and not have any problems? Just curious. :cool:
Good Luck!
Dean
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New drive belts last week. :-\
Alt/PS one exploded sometime on the highway while driving home from work. Noticed it when I went to make a right turn sans power steering.
Could not tell that the alt and brake light were on due to the sun shining on the gauges.
Dean
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Nothing attaches to the flimsy plastic trim.
2 bolts attached to the steel. One with a nutsert, other through-bolted through the wheel well.
Cool.
That finished install looks great.
Dean
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Nice work!
How are you planning to attach it to the interior structure?
Curious as I would like to do something similar for an old 12" Kicker Solobaric L7 I have laying around.
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My dad and I have used PPG stuff in the past on the hot rods and it seems to work good.
Recently, Duplicolor has put out a line called Paintshop and I have been wanting to try it out. You can get all the items from your local auto parts store vs. going to an auto body supply shop.
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This is what you might be looking for. They are like a stripped screw removal tool. They will slip over the wheel lock and as you turn to get it off, they get a tighter grip. There are cheaper sets out there. This is what I happen to find quickly.
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1997 OBW 2.5 5Mt ~170,000 miles
I had a stumble around 1600rpm while taking off from a stop. Been doing it for about 6 months.
Did some reading and saw some suggestions on cleaning the MAF. So I took it out and hit it with some MAF cleaner. So far it has been 200 miles and it seems to have worked.
Hope this helps
Dean
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How's the rest of the car holding up at its mileage and how are you planning on using the car normally are some of the things I would be looking at.
Although you could always swap all the parts over to a newer car if you stayed in that model family.
I considered swapping my mounts to group n until I read about the increased noise inthe cabin. My car is primarily used for everyday commuting and hauling the family around so that was not really desirable. Plus I don't plan on racing it anytime soon......
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I would do all 3. If you think about it, they all will be flexing on the torque of the motor.
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the pickup changed on the newer cars has a heavy bell type strainer thiss weighs more and whould definatny vibrate more than the original ones.Anyway today i'm taking apart a 2.5 1 from a 2001 forester blown headgaskets runs very good still no slap or knocks 210000kms whant to use it as experiment to see what berrings look like on a engine thats running fine with no bottom end problems will take detailed picks of the berrings and post them here will see how they look if i can get past the 6 engine jobs in the way first
I would disagree as the heavier pickup should have a dampening effect on vibration.
Adding/subtracting weight is how you move the resonant frequency of a device out of the problem area.
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Sweet! Are you expecting any increase in noise in the cabin with them?
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Some new information. It is a dual layer pin. Found one kicking around in my hardware cabinet that I did not know about. I used a pair of Starrett calipers to measure it.
.333" in diameter
1.20" long
.075" gap in the long opening of the roll pin.
Hope this helps.
Dean
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If I remember correctly it was just a 1 pin. It was a fairly thick wall pin I do remember that. It also had a taper on the end to aid in alignment.
If the shifter is stuck on there, you might want to try a combination of kroil and pb blaster. I was sold on pb when working on my 49 ford pickup.
Let me know if you need any more info.
Dean
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Im not sure on if you really need new pins or not. I bought new ones because I did not want any problems as I was going out of town the next day. You can try the old ones and see how it goes.
I saw where your trans took a dump. That sucks! I am following your thread as it progresses.
Dean
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It can. I had a cheap autozone alt go bad within 200 miles of installing it.
Since you can feel the alt freeze up as you turn it that you found atleast one problem. Sounds like one of the bearings in the alt went bad.
I would also at the very least replace the bubbled hose too and go from there.
Like some of the other responses mentioned, get a mechanics stethoscope. They are great for finding problems like this. Harbor Freight has one (pn 41966) for 3.99.
Good luck!
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The shifter joint grommet is toast so neutral is sloppy.
Also make sure your return spring is in good shape. That can also cause sloppyness.
Good luck with the swap!
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I have had the same problem as hohieu. Make sure that it is the correct seal.
When I did my front bearings, I messed up 2 seals thinking that it was something that I was doing wrong. Turns out that Timken part did not work. Wound up getting one from the dealership.
Shifter Linkage Replacement
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted
Nice idea! I did not have much trouble getting mine out. I'm one of the lucky ones and live in Georgia where salt is virtually non-existent. I saw your question regarding the spring. My spring was ok but I had tons of slop when shifting gears. It's still shifting great.