Doug_ATX

Thanks again. I'm looking into your suggestions.

211K on the original motor, so I'm thinking it will need more than just rings. $1800 USD is almost 4X what I payed for the her (I know, wrong argument to make on an enthusiast forum). I will keep asking around, I'm waiting for some call backs from other machine shops, etc.. Thanks for the help so far fellas

While I agree that it would be easiest/cheapest to just drop a "good" used motor in, the difficulty is finding one. The local rebuild place that I've used in the past quoted me $1850, and said that he would have to get the pistons custom made?!

So my 83 brat's #4 has pretty much given up completely. Locomotive crankcase blow-by, lovely clunking sounds, massive oil consumption and overheating as well as refusing to idle no matter how much I adjusted the carb... While limping her home, I tried to add some oil while it was running (I didn't want to push start it AGAIN) and the crank pressure blew my first pour back into my shirt! Anyhow I think this engine has made its last trip out of the valley. Its pretty high mileage although the other 3 cylinders look in decent shape (going to run a compression check on them tomorrow, but I suspect they're doing ok) I'm going to query my local engine rebuilders on a price tomorrow as well, but wanted to ask on USMB for suggestions on where to go from here as there maybe some options that I'm not aware of that will get me back on the road in a cost effective manner other than a complete rebuild...This is just a commutemobile, mostly highway. The Transmission is in great shape at least! I don'y want to have to park it, but if its cheaper to buy some hoptie to get me to work for now until I can save some $$...so be it I guess Thanks in advance for any suggestions. Doug PS.. Just to give you an idea of the impressive oil consumption rate...it used a quart every 80 highway miles =)

I ended up paying a machine shop 5 bucks to press it off, I just couldn't get it to release. Got it all back together and other than the clicking from the other side (a prelude to a similar fate methinks) she drives great . I did however try to drive the DOJ spring pin in the wrong direction at first I guess reading the procedure would have been smart. Anyhow, thanks for all the help everyone.

Alright the axle is out, and was surprisingly straightforward. The passenger CVJ (with the torn boot) was totally dry and some of the bearings were flat spotted, I'm amazed it even turned! My new problem is finding someone to press the knuckle off/on of the axle. Everyone I call seems to have no idea what I'm talking about, or has no interest in doing such a "side job" at their automotive or machine shop. Is there a name for the press that is required for to remove it? Maybe if I ask if they have the specialty press, rather than if they will press it out alone-- Then I can just show up with the axle and negotiate in person (without getting to rape me on the entire axle replacement.) I would have had the entire job done in 2 hours but instead I've spent an extra hour on the phone cold calling auto/machine shops... and now its after 6pm-- now its a 2 day job...ohwell The BRAT is by far the easiest vehicle to work on I've ever owned. It's the simple things like keeping the socket sizes generally the same, etc... but having this knuckle pressed on and off kinda sucks imo :-\ Thanks for all the help so far...

Do you remember what chain carried the EMPI axles? I've just read so much bad stuff about the mcparts axles that I'm cautious.

Its almost totally undrivable now. She almost didn't make it back from the corner store this morning. Whatever is going bad, is getting worse fast. The grinding/screeching sounds got some good looks from pedestrians and other drivers:confused: The CVJ on that side is the one with the torn boot, so if its seizing I wouldn't be surprised, and it would explain a great many things. I need to get new axles methinks. Is there a big price difference between MWE and Subaru axles? Id call them but everyone is closed today. Does anyone have any words of wisdom for the axle removal/install? I have the HTKYSA book.

I replaced the tie-rod, and as I suspected the problem persists. The sound from the axle (more the passenger side, but also the driver) is more of a severe grinding sound than a simple click. and the steering is still affected to a certain degree. Can a outer CVJ really cause that much disorder? I've heard guys say they run on bad CVJs for thousands of miles, with only a clicking nuisance. I haven't taken it to highway speeds to check for the really scary wobble, but the low speed side-to-side shimmy on acceleratrion is still there. This condition developed from imperceptable to unacceptable in 200 miles. I cant believe its the balljoint. Do you really think that its not the CV or DOJs? The grinding sound seems like it must be somewhere in the axle...I know you cant hear the sound, but maybe I will attempt to make a recording and post a link. Thanks again for the responses! I did repack the CVJ with the torn boot, and it had no effect on the behavior.

Oh, dont worry...the BRAT suspension is now getting my full attention. When I pulled off the wheel and saw that tie rod I got an adrenaline rush, as if I had just cheated death. Hopefully the tie rods are the entire problem, and replacing them will fix the wobble...I'm skeptical though.

Well the BRAT (83 4spd d/r) made its first long distance trip this week, hooray! It turned in a respectable 26mpg over a 200mi distance. The problem is during the drive I noticed a slight wobble in the steering (not just the steering wheel) while accelerating. As the drive continued, the wobble became more and more pronounced and sometimes would get scary bad. I thought I had a blowout at one point because the vibrations and wobble was so bad, and the vehicle pulled badly to the right. I nursed her the rest of the way, although strangely enough it seemed more stable above 60mph. When I would hit any rough pavement, it would tend to bring on the wobble and pull to the right, although this was not repeatable every time. Now, when I make a tight parking lot turn, I hear clicking and car behaves like it is in 4wd (binds and lurches). This is my first car with FWD or 4WD, but I'm assuming the clicking is the CV joints...but this seems unlikely the culprit of all these problems alone. Also, the steering wheel pulls a good 10-15 degrees side to side while accelerating (more pronounced at low speeds), and almost gives a feeling of the drivetrain slipping, but only on one side. I pulled off the front wheels, and beside noticing the driver side outer tie rod is total junk and in need of replacing (pic below ) the axle boots are in remarkably good shape. Once again this is my first FWD experience so if I get some terms mixed up/wrong please correct me. There is fluid accumulated on the passenger side steering knuckle from a small tear in the boot (pic below from above the boot) With the car up on jackstands I put the car in 1st to see if anything was obviously wrong. I noticed the the passenger side wheel isn't turning. It was bumping forward slightly, and if I help it around it would turn a time or two then stop again. Is this normal? Could there be something in axle assembly that has gone bad and allowing just the passenger side to slip excessively? This might explain the wobble and the tendency for the pull to the right maybe. In my searches I read a lot of mention of the double offset joint being a culprit of subaru steering problems, could this be me? If so how hard is the doj to replace? Can it even be replaced independent of the axles? My fine haynes manual makes the removal of the axle from the steering knuckle an impossible task without a "special tool" (to me that almost always sounds like needlenose pliers, flathead screwdriver, and/or hammer). Anyhow sorry for the long post, but this is now my only transportation and I want to get it back on the road asap. Thanks in advance for any help! By heckler, shot with FinePix A340 at 2009-06-13 By heckler, shot with FinePix A340 at 2009-06-13

Still too lazy to take new pics, but here is one from the sale listing.

Eleuthera, Bahamas. Where I am for the summer The Brat is in Austin, TX...a little far from Iowa unfortunately. I will have to see what the muffler shop can jig up.

My recently acquired 83 brat 4sp d/r is missing the exhaust after the cat. The PO says it "fell off." Regardless of the reason, it needs a new pipe/muffler. Whats the best route? Just have some custom bent and clamped on? or is there an aftermarket producer? The engine is surprisingly quiet for muffler-less operation:)

hehe, I will take some next week when Im back in town... shes not that pretty I will warn you! I sprayed it down at the local car wash and I swear it doesn't look ANY cleaner, despite the mudflow the wash produced. I will say though, these are the first t-tops I've ever seen that don't leak profusely. +1

Thanks for the replies! Edrach- I will definitely get the book you suggested. I had a feeling that the weber (I've owned weber carbs) would be be better than Hitachi (My VCR manufacturer). But the Hitachi carb was just rebuilt and it looks like they did what ihscout54 suggested as far as making it work w/o the ECU. It really does run remarkably well. Maybe it was running way rich up in the mountains /shrug Twitch- Its a 4sp d/r (thanks for getting me going on the pro lingo ) ihscout54- I too would rather have the EGR functioning properly, but I'm unlikely to spend money to get fixed, particularly if I don't run into any complications from it being disconnected. The PO looks like they did just what you described and pulled and plugged everything when they rebuilt the carb. I don't think he rebuilt it himself, thank god, judging from some of his other "repairs." He was also a cheeto, corn nut, and MRE peanut butter fan, as well as a messy eater. State inspections wont be a problem. Out of curiosity, how did the feedback system control the afr? I understand the sensors, and inputs, but I still dont understand how it attempted to change the afr. Was it constricting/increasing airflow? Or did it have control over fuel? All of my carbd vehicles in the past were pre-emissions tech.

Hello all, I'm new to Subaru's but now have an 83 BRAT 4WD. It was pretty neglected and needed have the front suspension repaired among other things-the top strut mounts separated and the struts fell into the wheel wells (I think the PO drove like this for a while since they were pretty well hammered!) The parts were pretty hard to find :-\ But, the engine ran well and the rust wasn't *too* bad, so I picked it up for cheap and I LOVE it ! Anyhow I have a few questions. As far as I can tell from the o-so-helpful haynes manual, I have the 1800 E-81 engine with the Hitachi 2bbl. It appears (although I'm not sure) that all were the 'feedback' type carb with an ECU under the dash controlling the afr via some means I'm still a little unclear on. I was a little surprised to see that it would offer a limited array of trouble codes and it piqued my interest. So I pulled the panel where the ECU should be, and its GONE! I can see clearly where the PO cut a little window to easily see the light through the panel, so I'm confident there was one there. Under the hood it looks like the EGR, canister purge, air injection, heat riser and a host of other things have been disconnected. So the question is: is this common? detrimental? easily repaired (or worth reparing) I know with some other vehicles I owned a disconnected EGR could lead to some other problems. I'm aware of the legality/patchouli issues, so no need to mention that The car was at ~5k ft altitude, and is now at sea level. I was surprised at how well it ran at both altitudes and since I cant see any way to adjust the mixture I assumed the ECU made some pro adjustments. Now that I know its not doing anything (since its just an empty bracket now) is there a way to manually adjust the carb? The e-81 looks like a fun engine and reminds me of my general aviation days. Any other suggestions for a newbie about the BRAT are appreciated! Thanks in advance!