Benfolio

I'm not sure how legal it is, but everyone and their mother goes here in Cedarburg: http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=five+corners+cedarburg+wi&aq=&sll=37.0625,-95.677068&sspn=40.59616,79.013672&ie=UTF8&hq=five+corners&hnear=Cedarburg,+Ozaukee,+Wisconsin&ll=43.321338,-88.0117&spn=0.002283,0.006866&t=h&z=18 The entrance is marked by a cone off HWY60 just west of 5-Corners. My neighbor's always taking his Jeep there, and I think most of it is suited to big redneck trucks and not Subarus. I've heard of at least one stock WRX getting stuck in there. LIFTED Subarus might do okay though....

Odd, it worked last night. Here's the direct link to the alldata image: http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/847476

With air suspension:

Here's a semi-decent picture of where the points are, or SHOULD be on any EJ series engine.

Thanks! I'm following the build this guy did: http://sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=17684 Minus the sexy bumper (for now) and rear '99 Forester springs.... until i see how it sits. I'm trying to do it the cheapest and easiest and so far the way he did it seems like the way to go.... no lift blocks or spacers needed. Just struts. Ordered up some strut assemblies and different wheels (Forester full size spares FTW!) today. Tires will be next. 215/65R16 Yoko AT/S's. Should be fun. Hopefully the wife won't kill me, and I can make back what I spend lifting it on selling the WRX struts and lowering springs. And maybe the snowflakes.

Sorry I didn't see this thread earlier (I need to come 'round here more), just thought its funny I also went from a Crown Vic into a Subaru wagon. Sold my nice but horrible in the winter 2001 CVPI (it even had carpet and a power seat!) with just over 130k on her and got a somewhat abused and rough '97 2.5GT sedan. Later found my clean L wagon on CL for cheap and swapped my good 2.5GT parts into her. I won't EVER go back! Saw TheLoyale at the Subaru City show (thanks for making me want to lift my L.... Ordered Outback struts today!), and ALMOST went to the Don Miller show, but my buddy (who won Best Subaru with his '05 STi at the Subaru City show) didn't want to drive all the way out there. Hell, I should have entered in both. Only Legacy period at Subaru City, and one of only two Wagons at Don Miller.

Not worried about my speedo. I'll just track it by GPS and see how far its off at 60-70 where I usually cruise at. Funny thing is, it was off with my stock L wheels/tires, but is spot on now with my GT wheels/tires. I am pretty set on Forester struts, just need to figure out if the XT was lower/stiffer or what. Seems like the struts are the same, but the springs are not. I'm set on those because it's easier to find a cheap set with low miles versus a cheap high mile OB setup, or $$$$$$$$$ for new OB stuff. Did some more searching last night and this morning and I think I'll be calling Subaru on Monday to get the front crossmember spacers from an OB, and the rear trailing arm brackets, so the driveline angles are good.

Just started with an idea after seeing TheLoyale's lifted Loyale wagon at a recent car show, and seeing how I'm moving out of the city, and into the "country", it makes sense. Having a lowered Legacy wagon is nice and all ('05 WRX struts with Hotchkis springs), but a lot less practical than a lifted one, especially come winter. I've done a little research and will be going the cheap route with used '04+ Forester struts. Not sure yet what wheels (Forester steelies?) and tires I will run. Looking for any help anyone can throw my way, like links and whatnot. Here's what I'm starting with: Thanks in advance!

You need to remove some stuff. Off the top of my head, there's the cupholder (pull it all the way out and there's a tab on the back to push down to remove) held in by two screws that also hold in the tabs for the radio surround and HVAC surround. Then the ashtray. Then you need to take off the shift knob and remove the two center console covers (e-brake and shift lever, two screws under the center console lid/armrest then they just pop off), then you'll get access to the underside of the radio surround where there are two screws holding up the ashtray track. After all that stuff is out you can take off the radio surround. Be careful with the cig lighter, you MAY be able to keep it plugged in and just move the radio surround out of the way, otherwise you can unplug it and take the whole thing out. The radio itself is held in by 4 screws buried along the sides of the radio. Keep a magnet handy, you're gonna drop some. After that the radio will slide out, and everything goes back in the opposite way it came out. Did I miss anything?

Good points, everyone. When I take the next step I'll be sure to heed your advice(s). It's back running on 50/50 coolant now. Just got back from a drive and it seems okay. We'll see how long this lasts........

I've done all the flushing and bleeding. And I'll take my chances with this fix. I've already settled that I need head gaskets, and will NOT cheap out on eBay crap. Cometic here I come..... But first I had to try this. I don't have the time to pull this motor. Again. I did let it idle for 10, then drove it for 10, then let it idle again. Saw bubbles in the overflow so I know I beat it enough to cause the leak to pop up. Even if this DOES work, I'm buying a JDM EJ25D (40k on it) and swapping that in and rebuilding my motor. That way I don't have to be without a car for too long, and if it gets all gunked up with the head gasket fix-in-a-bottle, so what?. It's only a spare after the JDM goes in.

Hrm, a head gasket fix in a bottle for my EJ25D? I know, I know, I KNOW it needs head gaskets, but I'm on a budget and just wanted to try this first. I've heard mixed reviews, and mixed answers about the proper procedure for using it (some say follow the directions, others modify them and still get good results, such as DRIVING the car with the mixture in it, instead of just idling), but wanted some info from actual SUBARU people. Has it been used? How? Has it worked? How long? Engine is a stock 1997 Phase I EJ25D, 164,000 miles, not sure if the HG's have been done..... It was pushing coolant out of the radiator into the overflow slightly, usually it would go back down as the car cooled, and maybe it'd go a week or three before it got too high and would overheat, now it's doing it DAILY. Hell, every time I drive it. Funny thing is, I set it to idle at 3,000RPM for 20 minutes in the shop at work to simulate a drive home and it was fine. Didn't even get any combustion gasses in the radiator according to our fancy-schmancy tester here at work. But that makes a case for ignoring the instructions on the bottle, and driving it with the mixture in, if it didn't push any gasses into the coolant just sitting there running without a load. I mean, if it's not going to bubble out sitting in the shop like that, how is the K&W stuff going to fill the crack that's not leaking?