Subydooder

Can you please post a link? Or the name?

I have a 83 gL wagon. I just replaced the front section from JC whitney. It is only available for a brat. It is the same floorpan and tunnel or it sure fits like it is. The rear sections I color matched locally for 11 bucks a yard. I have the rear section done and I just need to finish the seam under the rear seat where the foot well meets the seat. It is all new and looks great. I just got busy and need to finish that last detail. I'm just having to much fun driving it. Here is a shot after getting most of it in. I put new padding in after I coated the entire lower body with a noise canceling product. The previous owner won't recognize it. The fronts side by side. You think your carpet was gross. LOL...

Thanks. I will give that a try. At 300K I should do bearings too I suppose. 90 bucks a side... ouch. The rears are quiet but the fronts I can hear. I was just talking with someone about replacing several sets of wheel bearings on a car long before the life span was up. The owner lived next to some train tracks and the passing trains made enough vibration to destroy the bearings prematurely. That took a while to figure out. I don't like hammering on components with bearings. Anyways.. thank you.

That depends on the passenger...

Hands down! :grin:

I can't post in the repair section so I'll try here. I even did a search. I have been reworking a 1982 GL E81 powered wagon. I need new axles all the way around and the rear drivers side is stuck at the splines on the wheel end. I removed my pins and the diff side was quick with no issues. The splines on the wheel end have a firm grip. I used a big brass drift and got no movement. I have been soaking it with PB blaster. I had to put it back together and drive it (rattle rattle:rolleyes:) I then realized I need new suspension bushings and some chassis black put in the right places. I have plans to remove the suspension arm, take apart the axle and press it out with my 20 ton press. I am hoping this can be done. I know I need new wheel bearings after my hammer and drift work. That's hard on them. I bought napa cv axles and now regret it after reading up here some. I will throw those in and buy some quality front's when I get to that end. In the mean time is there a way to get the two apart without me uncontrollably rebuilding the entire assembly in a foreign language. I really need too in the long run? Can I throw this in? I would like to find a suspension bushing source. My regular shop only does SAE truck stuff. My rear diff is missing the whole upper half. I just hit 300K and I am really starting to like this car.

BTW, I ended up using new carpet for a brat from JC whitney. It fit great and the remaining interior carpet I color matched locally and cut to fit. I did find a place online that sold the drivers side rubber foot well pads for making new carpet for your car. The JC whitney stuff was simple cut and sew seams and bulk carpet could be made into a very good looking new carpet job in a short amount if time. Has anyone found any other sources for the GL cars?

Well lets see. The IC chip I bought from a local electronics supply place. I build a lot of custom stuff so this place is one of my favorites. It is in Beaverton Oregon They are called NORVAK ELECTRONICS. 503-644-1025 or 1-800-938-1025 My receipt says part number NTE 55 @ $4.80 Get some desoldering wick also as it's quick to use part number 1822-10F @ $2.40 When I put the chip in the board I test ran the fuel pump. The new chip got hot so I knew I either had possible faulty diodes or other components on the board. Or the fuel pump was working the relay to hard. Since I wanted to build out the car for reliability and replace the high wear parts so I put a new NAPA 3-5 PSI rotary vane fuel pump in and presto! The IC chip stayed cool and it was running great till the head gasket let go. I'll have the new or reworked motor installed in a couple hours. Vroom vroom... no wait, wrong brand:) The 303 protectant is absolutely amazing stuff. I restore old cars and am a custom car builder by trade (layed off right now transitioning to self employment) the protectant is equal to 40 SPF for UV exposure. The neat thing about it is it's ability to rehydrate old gaskets and rubber trim pieces. I tinker with old military trucks and civi jeeps and some of the rubber pieces are trashed and no longer able to be found even surplus. My MV trucks buds and I have found that soaking these parts in 303 for about 30 days will bring the part back to it's original shape and restore it's pliability. I have used several gallons of the stuff. Vinyl car and jeep tops love this stuff. Here is the bottle. As for my interior. It was faded in some spots. The dash vents were falling apart. I replaced them with a junk yard car replacement. Before I installed the better vents I sprayed 303 on them for a couple weeks till it was dripping. I just kept doing it. They look way better and hopefully will stay together longer than the ones I removed. Every door panel was soaked for a month. I would follow with a very damp rag keeping it wet with 303. The change is great. Be sure to wear gloves. The console and all arm rests were treated the same. A couple of hot days with the windows up seemed to help it penetrate. I wiped it all out and have been enjoying it since. I looked for a separate tech forum. Is this the place to ask a question? My question is can you swap flywheels from E81 to E81 and not have balance issues? Are they indexed? I did not look long but the bolts all looked spaced evenly. I need a drivers seat. Some mice had a few late nights in my foam.

Absolutely, I am not far out of PDX at all. I have seen a couple here that are pretty hogged out. It looks like fun. After messing with Jeeps for 30 years it's kind of refreshing to find a new rig to tinker with. I should have bought a Subaru years ago. I was hoping to put the second motor in today. I had the wrong throw out bearing for the clutch. This motor was far from ready to run. Helicoil kits are expensive. Somebody was very hard on this motor. I also had a casting flaw in the block. It was weird. It penetrated into the water jacket. I made it round and pinned it with a tapered steel pin bedded with high temp epoxy. I faced it and threw it together. Fingers crossed.:-\ I hope it works or I'm tearing in to the original 300 K motor. The more I work on this car the more I like it. Thanks for the welcome.

Greetings, I have purchsed a 1983 Subaru GL wagon and have been going through the car to make it a daily driver. I bought it with 300 K on it. 700 bucks and an extra 1800 engine. The car was pretty trashed inside. In the two months I have owned it I have .... Treated the floorpans for rust. Coated soundproofing on the floors. Resealed floors and truck bed liner on the rockers. New carpet and padding Rebuilt the instrument cluster and polished the face. Rebuilt the fuel system with new pump filter, IC chip in the relay etc. Repaired numerous bad electrical connections. Restored the interior panels with 303. Rebuilt every door, locks, latches, window guides. Replacing the rear hatch and lift cylinders. Sealed all door bottoms inside with POR 15 Added 60 watt strobes in each corner light. Hazards on steroids. LOL. Blew a head gasket and am now replacing the motor after going through the extra. It was also blown with many issues. I have a ton of pictures. I am really appreciating the Subaru. They were designed to be worked on. I am a long time jeeper. I have military trucks and a couple rare civilian jeeps. I belong to Oregons oldest 4x4 club the BrushBusters. I enjoy the outdoors a lot. I thought it would be a good idea to get online on a suby forum so I could learn more. There are a couple local subies that have massive lifts and one even has 33"s:eek:. I plan on original for now. Famous last words. I look forward to lots of reading (when the motors done) and learning. I'll post up a couple pictures. Off to the shop. Glad to be on board.