jermany755

From what I've read, the legacy gt's vf40 turbo is only slightly smaller than the sti's vf39. So yes a wrx td04 would be a downgrade. Although to be honest I have no idea what turbo they were using on wrx's in 2000. Where'd you get that thing? I would worry about how many miles are on it.

True. Also be careful torquing these bolts as I've heard stories of people breaking them off.

The spark plug seals under the valve covers need to be replaced periodically, but it seems unlikely that both of them would go bad on the same side at the same time. It seals against the valve cover though, so maybe it's not seated just right? I would take off the valve cover and see what's going on under there. Easy first thing to check. Does the engine turn over by hand without issue? ninja edit: Also is there oil all the way up on the inside of the spark plug boot thingy? Or just on the cylinder side of the spark plug?

13271AA071 for a MY01 Forester. Seems like a part that would be universal, but maybe wait on somebody that knows for sure. http://www.scoobymods.com/valve_cover_gasket-t5811.html -J

Niiiiice. I'm not sure if you've covered this already... but I assume you've looked into the local laws for putting in an engine that's older than the chassis? I remember reading about some issue of legality there but obviously I don't know the specifics. Good luck with your swap! -J

Oops nevermind. That video was of a turbo tranny. Turns out my install is right. I'm out of ideas. edit: Also I found that my car does roll on flat ground when in gear with the clutch pedal depressed. So I'm definitely not getting full disengagement. edit #2: Fairtax I get what you're saying about breaking the clutch in and earlier engagement and all that, but I can barely get shifted into ANY gear. It's not manageable until it gets broken in and I think something is wrong. BTW just to be clear I should be turning that rod clockwise so that it pushes the rod-end towards the rear of the car correct? I tried both ways and didn't have much luck with either.

Tried the rod adjustment and no joy. I also watched this video on how to properly install a clutch. At 2:10 it shows how to put in the throwout bearing and I know I did it wrong. Backwards, in fact. *Sigh* I hope it's not effed. I'm off to pull the engine forward...

@ bheinen: Thank you for your extremely helpful input. @ Fairtax4me: I'll try that tonight and post up my results tomorrow.

I'm as sure as I can be. Ordered the parts from Oakos for my car. I admit I didn't bounce part numbers or anything when I took the parts out of the box. I assumed they were right... I'll definately pull the clutch fork seal thingy off when I get home and take a look down there to see if anything looks messed up. It was getting too late last night to do any real troubleshooting. Ok I'll try that after checking my install. I have a sneaky suspicion it's something like this though. It's just disconcerting how right and awesome the clutch engagement feels once it's in gear so I really don't believe I biffed the install. <--- Famous last words eh?

Scavenging one of your other doorpins will certainly work, but this should be a super-easy fix if you are so inclined. The wiring for your driver doorpin will be easy to find after the kick panel is removed (especially if it still has half a doorpin attached ) and as long as you have ground trigger doorpins (which I believe you do) any plunger style switch of the right diameter would work. These can be had for very cheap. Good luck!

Hey guys. A little background: I recently pulled my motor for a bunch of high-mileage maintenance (instigated by a leaky headgasket) and while it was out I put on an ACT flywheel, pressure plate, and street disc. I also installed new OEM throwout and pilot bearings. I did not mess with the clutch hydraulics at all and everything worked fine before the enigine pull, sans a slipping OEM clutch. My car is a 2001 2.5 rs with 120,000+ miles. My problem is now I cannot shift into first. I can grind it into any other forward drive gear and reverse but even they are pretty hairy. I moved the car back and forth a few feet in the garage to test and engagement in second and reverse feel completely normal once I have it in gear. I haven't gotten a chance to see how it behaves on the road yet as I'm still flushing the coolant and doing other post engine install things... Please tell me this is something I can adjust so I don't have to pull the motor again! I'm going to be extremely upset with myself if I messed something up on the clutch install. Thanks!

Oh wow cool. It will be much easier to find a random 2.5L engine. Plus, like you said, it would be cheaper buying a compressor and seeing if it fits two or three times considering what they're selling new and remanufactured units for. Thanks again!

Lol oops. Ya I was definately remembering wrong for that reason. My mind holds onto things like a caulender.

Hey guys my girlfriend's mom just had her a/c compressor go out and I was going to find her a replacement. She has a 2003 Outback H6. I assume Subaru re-designed much of the engine and associated parts for the 3.0L H6. If I raid the junkyard, can I only grab an a/c compressor from a H6 subie? Thanks for your help!

Ya that seems to be the consensus on all the forums I read. Odd since the service manual spec is about twice that gap. Mine are at 0.006 and 0.008 cause that's what Delta Cams told me I should use for my re-grinds.

I know I don't explain things very well, but it's all there. Just squint your eyes a little bit when you read my posts and it will all become clear.

Hey sorry I didn't get the diagrams up yesterday. I was busy doing my own valve adjustment. =p I was a bit off on the procedure though. When the arrow on the driver's side cam is pointed straight up it's TDC for cylinder 1. Make your adjustment on cylinder one now. Turn it 90 degrees clockwise and it's TDC for cylinder 3. Make your adjustment. Straight down is cylinder 2, and pointing left is cylinder 4. So basically if you start with the arrow pointing up, you'll adjust both passenger side cylinders first and then both drivers side. The layout is as such: front of car ---- 2 1 4 3 ---- back of car You take the measurement directly under the adjustment screw and I'll try and get the diagram up tonight. Peace! Edit: Oh ya and I did my adjustment with the engine out of the car so I didn't have to deal with this, but apparently you need to take the exhaust valve measurements from under the car to get the feeler gauge at the correct angle. Just something to look forward to.

The wiring harness you're looking for is Metra part # 70-8901. I'm not sure that you need a dash kit. I believe there's a universal pocket that works, but a lot of subarus have a seperate radio unit and cd drive type unit, both single din. If that's the case then you can just replace the radio unit with your new head unit and leave the non-functioning cd drive there below it. Save you about $20 on a dash kit. edit: Also the Metra wire harness will plug into the Subaru plug that comes out of your factory radio. It will just be a bunch of wires sticking out. Your new radio will also come with a harness that plugs into the new radio and also ends in assorted wires. Coincedentally the colors on these two harnesses go together. Here's the layout in case you're curious: 12v + yellow Acc + red Ground - black Power antenna + blue Amp turn-on + blue/white Illumination +/- orange or orange/white or orange/black LF speaker + white LF speaker - white/black RF speaker + gray RF speaker - gray/black LR speaker + green LR speaker - green/black RR speaker + purple RR speaker - purple/black If you don't have a power antenna or aftermarket amplifier, don't connect the blue wires and tape them off. I would avoid using the illumination wire unless you know what you're doing as some cars use a 12v+ illumination circuit and others use a ground circuit. Good way to fry your new head unit if you mess it up. All that said... there are many good entry level head units from Pioneer, JVC, Alpine, Panasonic, etc. from under $100. Almost all come with a 3.5 mm audio input jack. Good luck!

What they said about the O2 sensors is true but even if your cat is shot $1800 is steep. A new OEM catpipe casts $1000-$1200 and is super easy to change out yourself. Do the sensors first though.

You take the measurement under the adjustment screw somewhere. I believe you have to have the driver's side cam gear at TDC when you take the measurements for cylinder 1, turn it 90 degrees for cylinder 2, etc. My memory is fuzzy on the exact procedure so don't take my word for it. I have the service manual at home for my '01 rs which should be the same as it's also SOHC 2.5L. I'll post up diagrams and instructions when I get off work. Probably about 5:00 pst.

Wow nice! What did you use to clean your parts with?

Hey guys, I'm getting ready to rip the engine out of my '01 impreza rs (120,000 mi). I've had an external coolant (headgasket) leak for about a year now and have just been adding coolant as necessary. Well... now I'm losing oil as well and I'm pretty sure it's getting into my coolant as it's looking distinctly muddy lately. Although it is hard to get a good look down the reservoir. So anyways I figure now is as good a time as any to do a bunch of high-mileage maintenance. I'm planning on taking the heads off to replace the headgaskets as well as changing the water pump, oil pump, timing belt, v-belts, clutch, all fluids, and any other seals or gaskets I can get my hands on. I'd like to keep the heads and shortblock intact because I'm not comfortable taking them apart myself and am on a pretty tight budget. I would, however, like to send my heads to a machine shop to make sure they are within spec as far as warping and all that. Will a shop still be able to test for that stuff with assembled heads? Here's my shopping list so far, although I'll update it later as I'm listing this from memory: Overhaul Gasket Set - $218.60 Oil Pump - (already have) Water Pump - $71.96 AC Belt - $10.04 Alternator and P/S Belt - $10.76 Radiator - (already have) Upper Radiator Hose - $10.04 Lower Radiator Hose - $10.04 (There are also left and right front hoses listed. Which should I be getting?) Thermostat - (already have) Clutch and Pressure Plate - (already have) Pilot Bearing - $8.81 Release Bearing - $30.52 Idler Pulley #1 - $53.96 Idler Pulley #2 - $30.13 (It looks like there are 3 different idler pulleys showing in the shop manual illustration. Anyone know how many of each of these I need?) Tensioner - $107.96 Timing Belt - $64.76 All prices are quoted from http://www.1stsubaruparts.com Some stuff I already had from when I was gathering parts for a turbo swap. (Aluminum radiator, ACT street clutch, Crucial thermostat, etc.) I know that the overhaul gasket set doesn't come with spark plug or head cover seals, but I just did those recently so I'll re-use them pending inspection. The spark plugs and wires as well. Anything obvious that you guys can see that I'm missing? Thanks. I'll be getting started this weekend as I have the next couple of weeks off.