RMVR53
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Posts posted by RMVR53
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ya know... one add'l - I thought. I wet test the wires for arcing and noticed something. The plug wires are Autolite. Think that could be an issue?
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ok - my bad -P341 is a RANGE problem and not a fail. So what am I looking for next? At least it wasn't a fail this time!!
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how about a screwy code reader. I picked up a cheap mini reader for the live readings. It gave me the last two codes. Reset it and just ran the 'test' again then read the code with my older INNOVA . Got a code...P341
Thats 3 after market CmPS and 2 Dealer Sensors. So either the reader is wrong or something is taking out or making the cam sensor fail under load.
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ok...finally had time to play with this this am. Installed the CmPS last week and got no codes but problem persisted so starting from there. I had read on an Outback forum that another poster had a similar issue and he swapped out the upstream O2 sensor and the problem went away. So I installed a Bosch upstream O2 sensor. Still doing the same thing so I kept driving it till it thru a code. P0203 and P0103 - MAF sensor high reading and same for #3 injection circuit. Well, as best I remember a 2000 Subie doesn't have a MAF. Thoughts?
hey....a least it didn't throw a CmPS sensor code!!!
BIll
oh...and this time I watched - the tach does "flinch" when it stunbles
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no flickering lights - normal opp. Heck, as best I remember the tach doesn't even flinch
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still have it and will put it back in tomorrow.
really appreciate your help Sir
Bill
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went out and plugged in the reader to verify - no code...yet. Also cleaned the gear to make sure there was no debris to mess up the magnet getting a read on the sprocket. Also to verify - its only under load and over 3000 rpm
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yes and no....it hasn't thrown a code yet but its doing the same thing. So I assume it will pop the code if I kept driving it
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next?....
just installed a dealer item cam sensor. Same issue although it did take it about 6 miles before it started missing going up a hill under load.
Bill
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checked to ground from the two leads in the plug?
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ordered the correct sensor from local Subi dealer today. Be in tomorrow. I will say that the lil sucker (non-factory replacement) was hot as a pistol even an hour after the engine was shut off.
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verifying the most recent question - is there anything that could take out the CmPS or make it act like one is failing? I read on another post that the bad/noisy alternator could trigger a failure.
Bill
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No they are not and I was beginning to think the same thing. Import Direct from O'Riliey's
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update. I've now replaced 4 Cam Position Sensors in 2 weeks. I finally got it to throw a code - P0341 (along with 0301-0304 - misfire). So replaced the CmPS. It lasted about 2 days and started the same crap again. Next one I installed Sunday and it didn't even start. Third one went in Monday but didn't have time for a test drive. I did that this evening. I made it 5 miles before it got so bad I wondered if I'd make it back home. Yeah it could be a bad batch of sensors, but is there anything else I should check that could be taking out the CmPS? Cold it starts/runs fine so I assume its either a heat or closed loop condition (or both).
Oh..and GD - voltage varied from .84 to .99 when hot on the downstream. I don't remember now what the front read, but it was the same as my Son-in-Laws 05 Legacy GT which we used to cross-reference readings.
thoughts?
thanks all
Bill
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will do - thank you Sir
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ok cool. Engine at op temp, cold or?
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GD thanks for the ideas. Not having any high-tech "stuff" to monitor trims and voltage, I may just opt for replacement...maybe one at a time because of $$. Fuel filter is about 40k old but will do it as well.
Tex, I would think the KS would set a code and we have none.
Bill
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Heres one for ya. I have a 2000 Outback 252 w/automatic. I had a miss that went away with new cam cover gaskets and oil seals. While there, I did plugs (NGK platinum) and coil. Now it runs like a scalded ape.
Almost
When under load, like going up a hill and on throttle, it starts to "buck" or" shudder" like a miss but its not setting a code. Also, this only happens over 3000 rpm. If you can go up that hill and keep it under 3 grand everything is fine. But by 3200 its starting to kick and buck.
ideas?
thanks
Bill
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Dealer stat is on the right. OTC "replacement" is on the left
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update -
thermostat. Changed it out to a factory spec unit (aka dealer) and problems went away. Amazing the difference in size from factory to "replacement" you get from a parts store. I'd be ashamed to call that a replacement part.
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89Ru - I'd agree but its been months since I topped the reservoir. To make sure it wasn't a failed cap or something, I topped up the radiator directly. It took less than half a quart for it to be running on the ground. About 6 months ago, I did find a leak in one of the small hoses on the back of the case to the intake. It would leak from a pin-hole right after you shut it off for about 6-10 seconds. It was such a small leak that it would evaporate as it hit the case. So I changed that and its cousin on the left side.
I did have someone tell me today that if I didn't use a factory thermostat then that could be my problem. My replacement about a year ago was a Stant which I thought were OEM units. I'm stopping by a Subie dealer tomorrow and checking on that angle.
Bill
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Hey all. Got a strange one. I've had the car for 4 years. Has 260,000 on it now. EVERY time you drive it, when you stop, there is the faint smell of hot antifreeze. I've replaced hoses, thermostat, and flushed the cooling system but its still there. It never overheats, just smells. Its never low on coolant. It overheats when you turn the air on. The aux fan is running when the air is on. It doesn't matter if your sitting still or driving at 50. After about 5 minutes you can just watch the gauge start climbing up till it hits the red and its blowing coolant into the reservoir.
Ideas?
thanks
Bill
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family member had a run-in with Lexus back bumper in his 05 STi Impreza wagon. Left front headlight is now sitting in front of the left front tire. Damage cuts at an angle across the front such that right front has minimal damage. I've not seen the car yet, just a pic. Assuming the front subframe is past tweeked (ok probably twisted like all crap), is the inner-fender/wall area a crumple zone? Is this repairable with pull or new sheet metal or both? I've straightened other cars with similar crunch, just curious on what else (besides obvious - core support, body panels, rad etc) I'm looking at
thanks all
Bill
its like a miss under load FIXED
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted · Edited by RMVR53
FIXED!!!
I found another post on the Outback forum from 5 years ago. Reading the post is was as if the guy was me working on my car. His final post is the same as this...
one tooth off....
Both cams were on time, but the crank was 1 tooth retarded (or you could say the crank was on and both cams were one tooth advanced). Its my fault as I put a new belt on when I did the water pump 6 months ago. Why it took 5-600 miles to trigger I don't really care right now. In any case, its fixed that and WOW...runs great, no miss and I've replaced a lot of parts that I probably needed to anyway so I'm happy. Thanks to all ya'll for direction, guidance and encouragement.
Bill