RonZilla

Hi all- thanks for the replies so far! I went to a couple auto parts stores today, one didn't carry the O2 sensor- part Bosch #15726, and the other (Murray's) had it listed as an UPSTREAM. The counter guy at Murray's THINKS that maybe there ISN'T a DOWNSTREAM O2 sensor on this car. There isn't one showing up in their database. When the check engine light came on, and I got it scanned, the mechanic told me it was the DOWNSTREAM sensor. The check engine light has not come back on, about 1000 miles later. The gas mileage has stayed between 25 and 29 MPG, I've checked every fillup. So should I just not worry about this right now? I looked for, and couldn't find a downstream O2 sensor on the car, but that doesn't mean it's not there, somewhere!! Can anyone set me straight on this, please? For reference- it's a 1997 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport, 2.2l. Thanks! RonZilla

I agree, great pics, thanks for posting! That helps explain things. Is taking this apart and sanding or filing the grooves out a big ordeal? As I posted before, I have a friend that is a Master mechanic for Chrysler, I'm not sure he has worked on something like this before. I guess I can ask. If I don't file or sand the grooves down, will it cause damage? The binding is minimal normally, but seems worse in reverse. Also, if anyone has an answer about the AT oil light blinking on startup still, I'd appreciate it. I read somewhere that it takes 40 drive cycles to reset that, and I'm probably close to that now. So, what is the recommended rear O2 sensor for a '97 Impreza Outback Sport? I've looked online, and most seem to be upstream sensors, and some don't even list whether they're up or downstream sensors. I just don't want to waste my money or buy the wrong one. Thanks for the help- I really like my new car, and want it running smoothly so I can expect to keep it for a long time. RonZilla

Thanks for the reply! I myself am no mechanic. I don't own any tools, and don't even change my own oil. Ok, that being said, Do you think a trans flush would help and is order? Anything else I could do? I DO have a friend that is a Master mechanic for Chrysler, so I don't know how much of that translates to Subaru. Probably not a lot for the trans. I just ordered an A/C condenser and he's going to install it for me next week- I'd like to have the O2 sensor and have him do both. Something I should mention- sorry I forgot last post- It seems to bind most in reverse, like in parking lots backing into spaces. It was raining the other day, and the binding was substantial. I've tried driving it in 1st, and no prob. After I bought new tires, I went to a parking lot, and did some circles, and the binding went away. Maybe I should also do this in reverse? That may be funny to you guys, but it shows I really have no idea how this binding happens and all. From what I read, there's a pressure buildup somewhere? Don't know if this helps, or just proves what you already said. Thanks again, and for the quick reply! RonZilla

Hi all! I'm new to the board, and just bought my first Subaru. I live in Michigan, and we had a rough winter last year, lots of snow. I was happy to find that Subaru has such a great reputation with their AWD. So, I looked for a used Subaru, and found a nice white '97 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport, 2.2l, automatic, 165,000 miles. My first issue was some binding driving slow around corners. I did some research on here (thanks!, probably saved me some money!) and found that one tire was 1 inch bigger than the others, even though they were all Pirelli's 195, 60, 15's, but one was a different model or something. I bought new tires, and 95% of the binding went away immediately. Now, I don't know when the last trans flush or diff. oil has been done, but the trans oil looks clean. I wanted to ask if I should do it, and add the GM Limited Slip Differential additive to the transmission after the change. What would the pro's do?? Also, the AT oil light flashes 16 times on startup, and I expected that to stop after the tires were changed, and the binding mostly stopped. Does that take some time to go away, or do I have another problem? Ok, and lastly, I was on a 500 mile trip, and the check engine light came on. I stopped at a local car repair shop, and they scanned my computer, and it showed the rear (downstream) O2 sensor had power cutting in and out on it. He suggested I change it out, and he reset the warning light, and it hasn't come back on. I've been looking online for a sensor, and would like some advice on which one I should buy. I would rather not have to cut and splice wiring, if possible. Thanks in advance for all the help, I'm looking forward to any replies. RonZilla