eVIL_NTT
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Posts posted by eVIL_NTT
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The entire time I have owned my '82 wagon it would sometimes "diesel" after I shut off the ignition, and nobody could ever figured out why it would happen. I recently replaced all of my bulbs with LED versions and the dieseling has stopped. One of the old bulbs had fused itself with the socket, not sure if that was the culprit or not but I am pleasantly surprised with the outcome.
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After 300,000+ miles the engine in my 1982 GL wagon is finally done. I am looking to replace it, does anyone know of a good rebuilder? I found this company www.rebuiltcrateengines.com which apparently has one for cheaper than what the shops locally will charge, and has a good warranty.
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I recently just replaced cap, rotor, wires, coil battery and negative battery cable on my '82 wagon. After sitting for a couple of years it started up on the second try and idled just fine. A week later after bleeding the brake lines I went to start it, had power for half a second and then nothing. No power to anything on the car. Fuses under dash all look good, and the fusable links look great. Anything I am failing to check? Maybe a bad ignition switch?
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I do plan on installing a bigger front bumper... where can I get a king spring?
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I am doing a front end rebuild on my '82 wagon, and had some difficulty finding parts due to the age of the vehicle. I managed to source everything but new strut springs for the front. I came across a chart in this thread http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/112243-coil-springs-rates/?hl=%2Bspring+%2Brate&do=findComment&comment=943506 and wanted to verify these are the numbers to use for my wagon. I want to have the springs tested to see if they are still in spec before installing them.
*EDIT* Looking at that chart again I see that it is for 3rd generation, mine is 2nd generation.
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I have seen a couple of different specs listed out there in the internet, does anyone have the factory recomendation available?
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Thanks so much!
I should venture out of my year and model more often on that website. -
^I know I am just teasing.
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^ I could not find them at rockauto, just the cylindars. Do you have a link by chance?
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Coolest Suzuki ever. Nice solar panel, by the way.
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Apart from rust penetrant or liquid wrench, any tips or methods to get a brake adjuster unstuck? I am hesitent to put too much force and have something snap off. I kinda would just like to replace them, but I am unsure if I could find good ones to do so.
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Sadly, no yards in California keep cars that old.
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I need to replace a splined hub on my wagon (the part that the lug studs are mounted to) and was sent one with a lip on the inside where the splines are. The ones that came off the car have splines nearly to the edge of the cylindar. I have a feeling they won't work, but thought a check here would do me some good (I attached a pic for reference.) Anyone?
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Put it in gear, set the ebrake, and let the clutch out and look to see what axle nut is spinning. That will be the stripped hub. The rear output is driven off of the front diff. Nearly impossibe to break and drive home in 4hi. I say stripped hub from improper torque also. Seen it more times than you count and people assume. Ithe worst. Maybe broken axle. I had one strip on me.
Spot on advice, thanks for the quick diagnostic method! Now begins the hunt for axel parts...
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That is worth a look, I will have to inspect them this weekend.
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Thanks, that's exactly what I was looking for!
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Both axels look good and are intact, they are rather new as well (under 6 months).
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My transmisson. I was driving home from work and out of no where the axels in the front stopped receiving power and got replaced with a very mild grindy noise. 4WD got me home. If I could find another transmission I would put it in, I am guessing having it rebuilt will be too expensive.
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I had that problem, and cleaning the cable really didn't work. Even the new cable I put in didn't work. I suspect in my case the actual speedo unit got damaged from the cable spinning too much for too long and, unexpectedly, the needle shot off with a loud pop after more than a year of no movement. I had to replace the whole gauge cluster and now no problems. If you can't fix it with the easy methods, you may want to yank out the cluster and look to see if the speedo is damaged.
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Thats kinda why I was asking here, I was hoping to find someone who has actually had experience dealing with swaping like transmissions between years.
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I am looking for a transmission for my wagon, and just going by year 1982 is a little too old for the used parts places. What other models did that transmission come in? Did Subaru put it something a litlle more recent? Any help would be appriciated.
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I was overthinking the issue, it turned out that a small bubble on the inside of one of the tires was causing the shudder, and after I inspected the axle nut/washer, the squeaking went away. Thanks again for the help everyone.
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I hope it is just a axle nut/washer issue, although this was a problem before new axels. I am going to inspect everything this weekend. Thanks so much for all the help, you guys rock!
Mystery "dieseling" cured with unlikely upgrade
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
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Subasaurus- I am still using sealed beams for headlights, although I put in some silverstars and they seem a bit brighter. The LED bulbs I bought were 90% Philips, mainly because they were on sale. I used Dorman for the blinkers as that's all I could find without spending too much for my budget. I also swapped my stock blinker relay for an adjustable electronic one that will work with LED bulbs, otherwise they would hyperflash so bad it looked like they were just on. The hazard lights relay works with the LED blinker bulbs just fine.
Jono- You are so passionate about incandescent bulbs! I choose to replace almost all the bulbs on the car with LED's, (save the super tiny ones on the instrument cluster that light up the door ajar, 4wd, etc.) because they are so much brighter than the stock ones, and draw a lot less power when on. I have a super big sub woofer speaker in the car and was experiencing light dimming power draw when the bass hit, now with the new bulbs that isn't happening. The shorter life span I can deal with, they are just bulbs. You are right though, a majority of the bulbs I pulled had kioto on them.