john40iowa
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Posts posted by john40iowa
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Filter technology and new insights into engineering and common oil change "wisdom" has brought about a revolution in oil filters.
Smaller filters work better for several reasons.
1. The filter medium is generally rated in microns - that is how small of a particulate size the filter will trap with about 99.99% efficiency. The filter media is porus with many different sized openings and multi-layered so as to trap small particulate and large particulate with high efficiency. Research into how filters "clog" shows that as they age they actually get better at filtering smaller particulate for a time, plateau at a specific flow rate and particulate size, and then drop off when they get too clogged up. The length of time that the filter stays at that high-efficiency plateau range and how quickly it reaches that range are both dependent on the size of the filter. Too large and it never filters small particulate with high efficiency before being changed out and too small is no good either because the plateau may not last long enough before being changed.
2. The "conventional wisdom" in America of changing your oil "EVERY 3,000 MILES" is extremely pervasive. The oil companies want you to buy oil and the chain parts stores and chain oil change establishments want you to come in more often so they can up-sell you on additives and services you don't want or need. It's sad but true. Any way the oil filter has to be able to reach it's best state and filter for 3k to 5k and then be pitched. The small Subaru filters do this well.
3. One should also consider that the Subaru engineers probably knew what they were doing. There are hundreds of thousands of Subaru's on the road with these filters - many of them 300+ HP STi's. No one anywhere is complaining about insufficient filtration, flow, or performance. Why do you suppose that is?
4. The Subaru filter has a trapped (crimped) seal. This will not bunch up and is much less likely to leak. It also ABSOLUTELY has the right bypass valve setting inside it. No guesswork as to which filter on the market has the right settings.
So in summary - larger is not better in this case. There is much more to the story than is evident from looking at filter sizes and making assumptions. As usual - assumptions are dangerous and those who are changing oil should very likely not be telling the engineers who build these things how it should be done.
GD
Just for reference I did not make "Assumptions." nor did I disparage engineers. I have in my hand a feather light filter from Subaru a fraction of the size to which has always been on the car and this came with no explanation whatsoever. I spent much time going through many specific credible web sites and there is Very compelling information which says just the contrary. We have a saying in the Midwest- "To each their own."
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Many people use fram and get away with it. If you search YouTube for fram you will see what I am talking about. Good filters cost a little more than fram but I rather spend extra dollar or two to protect my investment. This is two dollars vs thousands. You decide...
Sam
Thanks for all the opinions. I don't Like Fram in any way. The only reason I mentioned it is my walmart sell something like five different brands of filters but only has a legend for the Fram.
I just can't bring myself to take off the normal size filter and put this easter egg on my car. I know everyone here is probably right:burnout:
John
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I stopped at Walmart and of course the only information for Deciphering
the oil filters was the Fram books; though they have Bosch and a couple of others. The Fram looked about the same size as this one Subaru.
Here is a photo of what Subaru sent me.
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Well I am getting ready for tune up on the Forester for Winter. Anyhow I ordered from Walker a bunch of things including a new oil filter. When I pulled it out it look so small I can only assume it was mistake. I ordered for my specific car including VIN #. It measures 2 inches straight wide and about 2 3/4 deep. Seriously it looks more like a lawn mower filter than anything I ever seen on a car. Or am wrong? Would anyone here put this on their car. Personally I think I will head to Autozone for bigger one.
Thanks for any input.
John
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That is good advice; Also I also install a new radiator cap on our Forester about every three years. Cheap insurance to me.
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My Forester did the same thing at 165K. The front CV axles had no cracks in the boots but my shop discovered there was "Shake" from them. New (oem rebuilds) and poof, nice and smooth performance again. Best money I ever spent on the car.
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My '99 SOHC did the same thing after being rebuilt. This was '04 and I can't really remember all the specifics, but I had rebuilt due to the dreaded "Rod knock." My head gaskets were still fine with 135K, replaced anyhow. The warranty for the rebuild covered yet another rebuild and with a lot arguing of course. The solution for mine as determined by the shop was to have the cylinders slightly over bored and with larger Pistons to compensate. This did solve my engines problem and so far eight years and tens of thousands of miles later it still runs super strong with no major problems.
Don't know if any of this applies to yours, and I know ccr recommends against boring a Subaru. Mine was minimal and has caused no problems whatsoever.
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We did ours a few weeks ago and went through the Throttle body as recommended by others. You get the benefit of it being cleaned as well the sensors; although, it does require a little more dis-assembly. Seafoam now sells it in spray form and this was super easy to regulate. Car runs great! My neighbor was so impressed we did his Honda a week later. Using the Seafoam through the intake also has the unrelated benefit of showing potential leaks within intake/exhaust system, which mine didn't have, but the Honda did.
Search my posts under Seafoam and listed will be the valuable opinions of others.
John
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Thanks! I will bookmark this site.
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Does anyone know the part number for brake booster hose? It is for a "99 Forester. I found one after market company that sells them but they are out.
Thanks
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Defiantly helps the brakes to gear down on the declines.
I look forward to get one someday.
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I used the spray one today. First got it for the IAC, jumpy idle. Went like 6 ounces through vacuum line off air duct into IAC, I figured I would go through brake booster to evenly distribute it. Idles better, no up and down. However I didn't think of this at the time, it came with a real long insert tube with a plastic 180 degree braket I belive so you can put into the throttle body and put the air duct on to keep in running, I could be wrong. I tell ya it's good stuff for finding exhaust leaks!!! Another thing on the list for me!!!!
Yep that how I did mine- right inside the throttle body, twelve o'clock position. The button is kinda hard to push for that length of time, but much easier than trying to meter out a liquid.
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Is this the same seafood stuff you buy at the auto store in the white cans?
I used it because I had some valve ticking a week after I got my impreza, then a week later, upon starting, the ticking got exceptionally loud (it got quieter as the engine warmed up), but the people at the store told me to use this stuff in the oil (which needed a change anyway), so I put half in the oil, half in the tank, drove it to park city (45 min uphill climb) and back, and when I changed the oil... Everything sounded, felt, rode, drove better.
Yes, we got the spray Seafoam and ran it through the intake. Will do the oil next change.
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Well we did the procedure yesterday. I must say there really was substantial improvement in terms of Smooth performance and a little kick of power as well. We now believers! It was a little embarrassing having people think something was major wrong with the Forester though.
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the conditioner only helps, and is only promoted for, external 'weeping' of coolant.
I don't think it will harm anything if used appropriately.
I have heard of people using other products for bad HGs - I'm just skeptical it works very often or for a long time. Combustion chamber pressures are much higher than cooling system pressures and I doubt any high-tech substance in the coolant can even be deposited where it needs to go.
I have used the Subaru conditioner for eight years and had no trouble whatsoever with the cooling system nor had any ill effects otherwise. Of course it does nothing for the oil weep which the head gaskets are also prone to.
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I feel your pain, had mine replaced last summer. What does not make sense to me, in a car designed for bad weather, why this problem is not addressed and remedied with new models.
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Have you considered giving the engine the Seafoam treatment. Looks to really work from the video.
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I am with you bratman18. My Forester did the same thing at 175K. New axles by shops recommendation, and poof the problem was gone.
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Vacuum check is a good idea. I changed mine- hoses on the Forester and couldn't believe the difference in performance and there was not one visible imperfection in the originals.
Just a question, I have been here for years and never of "front A/f ratio sensor" what part is this.
Thanks
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Your right, throttle body it is. I've lined up my gas pedal pusher and will use the the spray, I just hope the Farm center carries this new incarnation.
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Thank you Texan. That might be the way to go. I must say though, having done it before, removing the breather on my Forester is really kinda of a hassle.
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Thanks. I buy high quality gas and using the Seafoam every 6 months seems to work pretty well in the tank. Never have seen an improvement with gas mileage (yes replaced front o2, tune ups with OEM parts, the works). My real goal is to clean the intake, and top of top of the engine.
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I was thinking now at 200K to give the intake a seafoam treatment, which has never been done; though, I have manually cleaned the throttle body and pcv hole. The website gave me a double take on this- "Note that some newer induction systems, like those found on Vortec and Subaru “H” style engines, do not have any vacuum line that distribute evenly. Consequently, this process should only be attempted by technicians with a comprehensive understanding of the engine’s induction system or use Sea Foam Spray through the throttle body (discribed in a different section of this web site)." My plan was the brake booster line, but maybe not correct. Any pointers are greatly appreciated.
'99 ej253
cabin air filter question 2000
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted
Thanks for the photos. I have decided to live with mine sans a filter. My next Forester will have one!