Narcoleptic

Just got done with some required service to my '96 Outback with a 2.2L and 5-speed. New timing belt, seals, water pump, clutch, pilot bearing, and throwout bearing. I removed the engine and transmission for all of this, I had a leaky transmission from a bolt that was loose on the transmission. Had a local dealership seal it back up for me. My problem after getting it all back together is a vibration through the pedals when the car is in gear and the clutch is engaged. It is only felt through the clutch and brake pedals, the shifter, and faintly through the steering wheel. It is a high-frequency vibration and seems to peak around 2500RPM -- which happens to be when the engine is the loudest with its growl. Any ideas on this one? I thought it might be the driveshaft, as my marking on its orientation had disappeared, so I had to guess as to which way to bolt it back up. Only the vibration disappears with the transmission in neutral, and I can feel no vibrations in the rear or driveshaft tunnel of the car. My other thought was the harmonic balance/crankshaft pulley. I had to tap two of the holes on the pulley to get it off the crankshaft snout, it was welded on there. Perhaps the minute amount of material remove threw it off balance.

The tensioner was removed from the engine when I did this. I reinstalled it after getting the belt on. The only other thing I can think of is the water pump. I installed a new water pump, part number 21111AA007. Two or three of the parts I received from this particular dealership were for a 2.5L, even though they had my VIN and "checked" the parts against the VIN to make sure they were correct. Perhaps the water pump is the wrong one, but I have no way of looking up the part number.

I have a 96 Outback with the 2.2L that I'm replacing the timing belt on. After getting the correct belt (the dealer I ordered from sent me a 2.5L belt) I got it on, but not without difficulty. Even with removing the two lower idlers (one smooth, one cogged) the belt was strung very tight and it took quite some time before I could get the idler bolt holes to line up. The driver's side cam was in a position where if I moved the belt too much it would snap and spin the pulley, so I'd have to realign the pulley and start over again. Is this normal?

I'm trying to bypass the hill holder on my '96 Legacy Outback wagon. I'd like to get the parts together before I crack open the brake lines, so I'm trying to find out what size fittings and line Subaru used. It looks like 3/16 brake line, but there are two different (that I can tell) types of flares ("standard" and bubble) used. Does anybody know the size of the fittings, line, and type of flare used?

Recently purchased a '96 Outback with a manual that has a oil leak -- but only after you turn off the engine. At first I thought it was engine oil, but the thought crossed my mind it may be gear oil from the transmission. The reason being that the oil level hasn't dropped, but the transmission oil level has. I've been poking around some online parts vendors, and they use the same parts.com engine and they don't call out individual transmission parts, just the whole assembly. Has anybody here dived into the guts of a manual, and could give me an idea of what I'm looking at? I'm guessing that if it is the front seal of the transmission I'm probably looking at a bearing that needs to be replaced, too. Any help?

One more question that I'll ask in here as to avoid cluttering up the board, but the emissions calibration sticker on the underside of the hood states that it meets both California and US emissions standards. The car so far as I can tell came from Utah. Did all Subarus meet CA Tier 1 regulations that year, or is this a CA-only model? The reason I ask is I know on older cars it can be a pain to located CA-only emission parts.

Thank you. I'm assuming that the clutch needs replacement too since it is bathed in oil now. I've seen the reports of clutch changes done by sliding the engine forward (with the radiator removed) but I wasn't sure if you could get to the plate or rear main seal with that procedure. If I was to remove the transmission, does that require special (Subaru-specific) tools to remove the front half-shafts?

I have found a '96 Outback with a 2.2L and 5-speed for a excellent price, but there is a oil leak in the rear of the engine. From what I've been reading, the 2.2L has a (oil?) seperator plate that can leak, and I'm assuming that the rear main seal will have to be done at the same time. Are these two repairs possible with the engine in the car? Some repair manuals I've found state that the engine has to come out.