jettaman8691

Thank you for the suggestion. This motor has a throttle body, not a carburator. As the vast amount of my experience is with a VW 1.6L diesel engine, I am not sure what you mean by a leaky injector or IAC, nor where to find them, so any guidance at all is appreciated. Thanks again.

The car is a 1988 GL 1.8 non-turbo 5spd. Rides real nice. Starts nice when cold and drives well. The problem happens when we shut it off, and then try to start a short time later. We have to floor the gas pedal and get it revving up high before it will run, and then it will die when we go from 1st to 2nd. Seems to be backfiring through the intake. Exhaust smells plasticy. Has a good throttle body, not touched. New pcv and O2 sensor. Plugged cat? Running rich? (old O2 was carboned bad). MAF shot? Help!

It turned out that the plug for the tps was shot. The female parts (4 prongs) were so corroded and weak, plus the small wire holder for the plug was missing, that the connections could not be maintained. For a while we could wiggle the plug while the car was running and cause the motor to rise and drop in rpm's. Finally it just would not start, and that was when I got lucky and found the newly arrived Loyale in the wrecking yard to get the whole throttle body and wiring loom.

Much appreciative for all the help recently. Was able to pinpoint and correct a TPS issue. It was the plug. Found a throttle body with attached tps and wiring bundle. Took it all, replaced the old, worked with it a bit until the brain figured it out that a new one was in place, and away it went! Beauty. Thanks again.

When ya take the TPS off the throttle body, should ya be able to rotate the internal part? By that I mean the female part that to butterfly valve fits into. I have the sinking feeling that I should not be able to turn that part completly around in the sensor body. Thanks.

Amazing. Thank you very much.

Thanks to this forum for all the great help. The overhaul of the E82 went great. Have a question of the TPS. Often, when I am driving down the road and come to a stop sign, the rpm's do not drop below about 2200. If I shut off the car and then start right back up, the idle is where it should be, around 1000 or so. Is this a TPS issue or a throttle body issue? Should I run some cleaner through the air system? I already took off and cleaned the clean air intake (the small attachment on the front of the throttle body. Thanks.

Thanks all. I did get it running, but had to go to a wrecking yard to check out a motor there first. I had the belts just right, lined up the mark on the distributor shaft with the bump on the distributor shell and installed it pointing to what I understood to be the #1 wire. No go. On looking at the motor in the wrecking yard, I found that the #1 cylinder was across the motor from the one I was using as #1. Mistake #1. And the distributor was installed with the mark opposite what I understood it was to be. When I set my motor up the same, it started right up. Confusing, but she runs, so okay.

Thanks. I do think this forum is better than others, given the helpful links at the bottom. Great idea.

I know this subject has received a lot of print here, but for us newbies, it is important that we understand clearly. The manuals do not really give good guidance on this subject. If I have not explained my question properly, just let me know. This is a great forum, and I can understand how your patience gets tested with repeat questions, but it is important. Thanks.

Nice old car, real nice. And I agree with nocashrider; that picture definitely reminds me of Western Washington. Beauty.

I am close on starting my E82; just have to fine tune. I have installed the two belts 180 degrees to each other. As I had removed the distributor, getting it back right is the issue. Have read here that after getting the belts on, I need to back off the flywheel to the 20 degree mark and install the disty, pointing at the #1 plug. Is this how it is to be done?

I am working on a 1.8L engine from a 1988 GL, non-turbo, no air, overhead cam. Am inspecting the slack adjusters; the book says to immerse them in oil, "pump up the hydraulics" (does that mean just push down on the plunger several times?), and then set the adjuster upright on the table. Push down on the adjuster plunger, and if it moves more than .5mm, replace. Just how critical is this measurement? All of the slack adjuster plungers move 1-2mm. Should I just replace all eight? Thanks.

Howdy all. Looking for a good site for engine parts. Am driving a 1988 GL, non-turbo, no air conditioning. Doing the head gaskets, but may need more. Thanks.