nicolo69

Thank you all for the advice, Ross you were right I was wrong, the LM-1 does have the ability to simulate the O2 I check the manual a was there how to wire it. So yesterday put the sec O2 back in place remove the primary O2 and put the wideband. The car star feeling different and the A/F look more dynamic. The trims on the scanner are on a different range. I can feel the car needs less throttle to run the same speed. Check only the 30 mph load and was around 11.35 %. Maybe the behave of the car are the conjunction of things (age, tires too big, ************hi mexican gas). I am gonna keep trying different thing. First, after reading the LM-1 manual I can change the voltage output on the O2 meaning I can trick the ECU to see a more rich mixture and pull some gas. I wil keep you posted

Vac test was done long ago but can try again and give some results. Load readings maybe tomorrow on my way back home. Wheel aligment done Better fuel done, no difference. Knock sensor checked monts ago if I dissconected I get a check ligth. PCV new, clean TB, IAC, EGR all tested and working acording to the FSM Visibly inspected cats, all clean, backpressure test done all ok no more than a 1 PSI at high revs, leak at junction on pipes, none. I wil keep you posted on new data and test. My scanner does not have MPG calculator I know the more data you have the better, thanks for you patience

Non taken. The LM-1 does have a analog output but only to read voltage it does not simulate the O2. I am planning to install an extra bung next to the O2 sensor to check real A/F All the filter were change oil, air, gas. Fuel pressure checked, EGR, coil, wires, back-pressure, manifold vac, new plugs, different plugs, different MAF you named I can try it. About the deceleration cut it only occurs if the car goes above 40 miles and after stepping on the break or downsifth manually. Another observation, the shifts are controlled by a TECU and this work around the MAF, TPS and VSS among other sensor, Ok. If I am crisng on the cruise control and the car goes over a small bridge uphill the trans down************f more than needed and on rare ocations it does not return to te 4 overdrive, I need to dissengage the cruise control change vehicle speed and the trans return to normal, but I fell this more like a bug (or maybe the tire size) on the TECU than a problem. I am gonna keep trying on this car because I loved, like I mention before there is no SUBARU in Mexico until recently and I felt in love whit the Outback Wagon since I saw a TV commercial whit crocodile Dunde many years ago, so wen I saw this car around town I never hesitate to buy it. I already toked to the beach on camping a was a dream come true but with mosquitoes. Tanks

I know A/F it is not the same on all the powerband, but I really can tell you I does not feel right the car has some kind of problem. Actually wen I step on the gas the A/F goes way out of band (below 9.0) you can smell the tail pipe from inside the car, believeme it is not normal. I did not have the opportunity yet but I was thinking on borrow a APEXI SAFC and do some tweaks on the car to figure out thinks. Last weak I have a car that show similar problem and turnout to be the timing belt so took mine and check the timing belt it was ok. One thing is for sure the day I fix my car you gonna know why. Thanks

First i want to thank everyone for the advice. I want to make things a little more clear, I am a mechanic I have a small mechanic shop here in Mexico, thats one of the reason I buy this car because every part here is hard to find and I know the car is gona need some care after so many time whit no use. All the basic troubles has been check (tires, brakes, wiring, plugs, fuel pump, HG, O2 sensor, etc), I am able to drive the car whit the scanner plugged and check the behavior of the engine. The heater core it is already looped put a fresh new thermostat a few months ago, still the same, I am aware the tires are bigger but does not explain the A/F problem. I am confident if I change the tires my fuel consumption is gonna improve but again It does not explain the A/F ratio. The only important part I did not change yet because as mention before is hard to get are the spark plug wires, I am on the process of order a new ones among the brake pads, hopes this fix the issue on the A/F. Thanks again.

Yes it does, actually last week I have a check ligth becouse it rains and the spark plug wire get wet, was a misfire code.

Hello again: At this time I am not able to find the solution for my car i try a new few things but the car still the same. One intresting thing that i found today is, according to the service manual the rear O2 goes after the second cat and my car has it behind de first averything looks in place no mods to the catback or downpipe, anyway i dont think this a factor to my fuel consumption. But one thing I notice is, if I disconect the rear O2 there is no cel ligth and the scanner dont show any activity on the reading beside .300 mv so at this point Im start to think there is some trouble on my ECU. I aready check wiring, diferents rear O2 sensor and the result it is the same, no cel ligth even after many trips and the A/F ratio remain at 14.5 (rich) I really need some expert advice Thanks

So far I try almost anything, vacum test, back pressure test, diferent fuel, diferent spark plugs, new front O2 sensor, check brakes, diferent oil, check EGR, all check ok. I have a generic scantool, the only problem found was a bad switch selector, fixed and never return. Becouse of the climate it is common here to cancel the heather core and some mechanics took out the thermostat on the cars, check mine and did not have, so i put a new one. The hoses coming and goin to the heather core are canceled not looped. keep in mind at 7:00 am the outside temp are 25 degrees celcius and by 3:00 pm are 40 degrees celcius almos every day betwen march and november. WE DONT USE THE HEATHER ON THE CAR NEVER

The car was sitting for 2 years without starting the car, but wen I took the car to my garage the only problem besides the trans, was a bad fuel pump, put a new one, fresh battery and star at the second try. Anyway put new spark plugs, filters and oil. I forgot to mention, today I made a back pressure test and was ok, no back pressure PSI. And the 250 miles on my tank was highway miles. I took a small trip on April and top fill the tank.

Let me introduce me My name is Jorge and i live in Merida, Mexico a city close to Cancun the climate it is hot, we dont have winter just hot or really hot. In Mexico there ir not a subaru distributors. Last year I bought a Subaru 1996 2.5 DOHC Legacy Outback found in a mechanic backyard, the trans was blown, after many monts researching i was able to fix the transmision. The engine was running fine from the begining, after a few monts of driving the car I notice the head gasket was blown, order the head gasket at the Autozone and fixed. I also change the waterpump,PCV valve, front oxigen sensor and add a transmission cooler. I love this car, it has 131,000 miles and is in good condition. But the main problem is that I only get 10 MPG in city driving and last time I check a full tank it last me only 250 miles. So far i try almost anything, I have a LM-1 wide band a few week a go I put it on the tailpipe and found the A/F ratio it`s on the rich side, almost all time it`s on the 14.5 range, considering the sensor it`s on the tail pipe after the cats thats really rich but the car don`t show any trouble code, drive nice, idle ok, shift decent. I allready check the voltage on the maf, tps, map and its ok. On highway if I floor the pedal it goes about 10.0 A/F and you can smell the the tail pipe hard. Also to consider, becouse the car was sitting almost 2 year the tires were bad, the only tires I have was a 225/75/R15 a little big for the car but fitted nice. Any ideas why the car is gulping gas? My next guess is replacing the spark plug wires it looks old but allready check the resistance and its on specs Thanks in advance