mjcee

Ah yes. You've hit on two funny issues. The previous owner that I bought the car from cut the wires to the radio (I wish he wouldn't have cut them). He put an amp under the driver's seat, look under there, you'll see the wiring. Then look in the center console, you see the hole in the corner. There was an audio cable with an 1/8" plug on the the other end running straight from the amp into the center console...why you ask? so you could connect your ipod/iphone, etc. I took the audio cable and amp with me when she died because I could and I didn't know what her fate would be. You can hook one up and those sweet blaupunkts up front and in the doors will jam. If you don't have one, I can send you the amp with the title. The dome light is indeed grouchy.

You speak the truth dood...That's (sadly) what got this car into it's current state of deadness.

Looks like I came on at the right time... She's alive!!! Keep up the good work man!!

1986 GL-10 Wagon I've done some searching through the forums and though there are a lot of problems with digi dashes. I haven't found one like this. The whole dash flickers and sometimes turns off when I hit a bump. It will usually turn back on after hitting another bump or if i hit the top of the dash with my hand. This ONLY happens when the headlights (and/or parking lights) are on. This never happens when the headlights are off. ???? The bumping leads me to believe it's a loose ground but why would it only happen when the headlights are on? Also, the temp. gauge doesn't seem to work correctly. What should I check? Where are the grounds? How difficult are they to get to? Thanks everyone.

Hey everyone, My soob sat at a park and ride for 6 days and when I got back in to drive away, a weird thing started happening. A weird grinding/jingling noise is coming from the shifter, especially pronounced when I shift. The noise goes away when accelerating and comes back when decelerating. Seems like something is dragging at first. Then I realize that I can move the shifter up and down (vertically) about 2 inches like a VW, but not). Hmm... something definitely broke/came loose in the the shifter. I did some searching on the forums and it sounds like it could be bushings or a spring (or both)?? I am going to pull off the console cover and shifter boot but I'm not really familiar make the parts underneath. Anybody have any suggestions on what the prob. might be and what to look for? Is there a reason this would have happened so suddenly? It's an EA82T with a 5 speed manual trans. Thanks in advance!

nice! thanks.

I saw you talking about EPMI axles in a previous thread. And I think I read that the turbo and non turbo axles were a bit different. I found this place that carries EPMI's. http://www.car-stuff.com/store/?N=11749+4294963403+1719+11921+5637 I need fronts (both sides). Can you point me to the right ones? It's an 86 Turbo, Fuel Injected, Manual Trans (if that matters). I want to make sure I don't f up and order the wrong ones. Thanks.

Good to know. Thanks. I've only had the car for a couple months now and trying to get to know it inside and out.

I'm thinking gasket? Maybe I'm afraid to know the truth. Why is it squishing out? The first photo is to give context. Thanks for any insight.

Thanks for the warm welcome and tips everyone. I'm gonna take your advice on rust prevention. I love her so far. Some little problems here and there I've (with a lot of help from USMB'ers) been trying to work out. Thanks again and congrats to you too AR Design.

Is there a gasket under the idle air controller that I should replace in the process?

Sorry guys. It's a 4WD turbo.

hey everybody, car: '86 GL-10 Wagon/5 speed/fuel injected. problem: The car is idling really high when cold. it has been up to 2300rpm. i know a high idle when cold isn't really uncommon but this seems crazy. Also, a few times, when sitting at a light in neutral, the car will rev up and down as high as 2500rpm down to around 1000rpm. And it won't stop until I put it into first and drive. I've done some searching on the forum and mostly found vac leaks or the coolant temperature sensor is going. I'm going to have some time to work on this on wednesday so I was wondering if anybody has any other thoughts? The only thing I've done to the car recently is an oil change and I put in a new fuel filter. Any input is greatly appreciated. Thanks.

hey everyone, Just bought my first subby about a month ago, an 86 GL-10 wagon. She only has 100000 miles on her and she lived most of her life in new mexico so virtually no rust! Having some funny problems though so i'll be hitting you guys up a lot for help. Thanks

alright, here's what i did tonight. tried coasting back and forth 10-20 feet while disengaging like i had read elsewhere-didn't work. i tried to dump the clutch while revving in reverse-didn't work. i jacked up the rear of the car and tried to disengage-didn't work. lifted the whole car and put it into gear (forward and reverse) while disengaging-still didn't work. what did finally work? while the car was up on jack stands, i was able to get underneath and locate the manual override lever and after putting some force on was able to budge it and, "sweet, it worked" were my words, i believe. so now, i'm thinking that perhaps there is a vacuum leak somewhere that is not allowing the button to function correctly but will wait for some daylight to investigate. thanks again for the input everyone!

thanks fellas, gonna try to get the rear up tonight and look for vacuum leaks. i'll let you guys know what happens.

hey everybody, My genius friend borrowed my subbie the other day and decided it woud be fun to put it into 4WD no where near snow, or mud, etc. Now it's stuck in 4WD and the steering is binding. How can I get it out? It's an '86 DL Wagon Turbo with the push 4WD button on the stick. Any help is much appreciated before any damage is done. Thanks.