Dodge Aries K

The LE and ES models (as well as the Town and Country models and Expresso) have adjustable head rests.

All right... I'll head up to the dealer tomorrow and place an order for the knock sensor for you.

Hahaha way to keep my thread going Sideshields! We'll get that figured out some more once it's not freezing cold outside. If you want to order a new knock sensor I can get a discount at the dealer on one.

Oh wow, that's great news to hear all around then. I was halfway tempted to just give up on the car and say screw it (lots of unpleasant situations around here with my house and other things) but that makes me want to try to fight for it a bit more.

Okay, I have a 1986 GL-10 wagon that I'm trying to have some fun with. This means that I'll reach the limits of it's EA82 turbo engine pretty quick because from what I see they pretty much suck. I tried searching for it but I couldn't find anything that shows if you can keep the air conditioning if you swap to the EJ engine in these older cars. If not, I will have to keep the EA82 alive as long as I have the thing as heat + me = heat stroke.

Figured I'd update this. GL-10 is safely stored inside for the crummy winter. Learned more about the car too... turns out it has... well... had... some weird vacuum controlled idle system. It didn't work so it was taken off. The solenoid thing I THOUGH was for idle is actually for the air conditioning idle up so I need to rehook that to the car's wiring harness but it also works well for bumping up the idle for cold starting so manual control it is for that. Still need to pull the radio out and figure out the wiring to add in a regular cd player instead of the ghetto rigged amp thing that used to be in there. It still also runs like crap because I still haven't gotten a knock sensor for it or the other tune up junk it needs but... it's cold outside and I haven't had much enthusiasm for screwing with it. Oh yeah, it needs a new clutch too. I've looked online but haven't seen too much about a better than stock clutch for the thing. The one in it is pretty bad... it even sticks sometimes and won't release. Bungee cord as a temporary measure to help move it around but... yeah... that's ghetto and sucks. Anyway, that's it for updates on this bugger for now. I should be able to get some things fixed on it during the winter and hopefully in the spring I will be able to drive it a bit.

Decided to have some fun tonight and cut the catalytic converters off the car. So now it's currently running open downpipe. Alot quieter than I thought it would be and, as I suspected, both cats completely trashed. Fine by me though, race cars don't like those things. Took it for a quick spin and holy jesus did it gain some serious power. Couldn't get on it too hard because the lack of the knock sensor (even though I did once before I remembered it wasn't there) and since it's raining out it spun the heck out of the tires on a roll in 2nd gear. They're new tires even! So now that I know that experiment was a success I'll need to get some pipe welded up for it and replace some parts. Knock sensor, wires, cap, rotor, coil, pcv valve, and then it should be golden. Oh, also need to remove the disfunctional egr valve and make a blockoff plate for that darn thing. Anybody have a 85-86 two wire knock sensor they'd part with?

Definitely interested in that tail lamp for sure. It's for the driver's side of the car. Even if you don't have one if you want that tape deck thing you can have it. I just have no idea if it works. As for the external gauges... you bet. Temp, Oil PSI, air/fuel, and boost. Eventually.

I think the dash was one of those changed that made my life miserable installing the engine... aka the 85-86 to 87-89 or something type of wiring crud that makes my head hurt. Odd on the stereo thing... I too wonder why someone would do something like that. I have a kit here for mounting a cd player while keeping the awesome travel computer so I'll have to rewire the whole speaker setup it seems. Ugh.

Hahaha hell yeah man! It does run again. I've been meaning to ask you, did you have issues with the radio not working and the dome light being tempramental? Sometimes the dome light works, sometimes it doesn't. As for the radio, i don't care as much since it'll get a proper unit instead of that cruddy tape deck. Oh yeah, mods... I put this under new gen by accident. Please relocate for me?

Well, as requested by some nice people who helped me out with this project here's my "official" project log of my car. It's a 1986 Subaru GL-10 Turbo wagon that I picked up from a repair shop in Michigan. Destined to become scrap metal... Chrissy, myself, and Clover the Dog made a trip from the Rockford area to Jackson and THEN up somewhere else to get an engine for the car that was donated to the cause by Mechanical_misfit on here. After one VERY long day and night we got home and dumped the car in the driveway. Three trips around the block to test other functionality and into the garage it went. My brother and I halfway disassembled it to start pulling the engine and then just said screw it for now as there were/are alot of other things I should be doing. Well, times are not so great and I'll be needing to move soon. Relentlessly I stared at the car wishing it would move by itself to assist with the moving of junk and somehow the magic started to happen. 1986nate from the SVX board came out here two weeks ago and we went from complete to this... The old engine still ran but the heads are most likely screwed and the head gaskets are indeed junk. Look at the dead engine sitting there in a pile of it's own filth... well... and kitty litter... So then we started to attempt to figure out the new engine. Subaru was kind enough to change out their electronic systems so the "new" engine had to have it's wiring stripped of it and the old wiring installed. This led to issues. Knock sensor that I needed snapped in half so now I need to find one. Idle kicker solenoid thing was also incompatible with the new engine so the old one was left in and is now manually controlled the ghetto way for the moment. Had to change the distributor to the vacuum advanced unit. Took off some of the emissions stuff like the charcoal canister and the EGR solenoid. What a pain... but we got it figured out for the most part. Then we dropped that sucker into the car. Went pretty well! So after that mostly uneventful part of the project we started to attempt to figure out why this thing runs like crap. New plugs and air filter helped a little. The PCM won't control the idle solenoid so we just powered it off the battery which then allowed the car to idle on it's own when cold. Double checked the distributor gear timing and it's spot on. Ran seafoam through the engine via a vacuum port as well as in the fuel tank and it seemed to help. I'm 100% sure the cats are very clogged up as there's barely any pressure coming out of the muffler especially since when the old engine ran it would empty the radiator by burning coolant in the matter of minutes. I still need to set the ignition timing accurately but I'm waiting to get the cats and muffler removed and replaced with "test pipe." Don't worry, it's not an everyday driver. It drastically needs new plug wires too I think. With the knock sensor out of commission I hooked the turbo output right to the wastegate for a low 5 pounds of boost until I find another one. Subaru wants $146 for one! Ouch! That'll have to wait for a while. Man, I loooooooooooove this dashboard. More gauges are needed though but they'll probably get some sort of bracket made and get mounted next to the climate control things or something like that. No idea as of yet. What I'm hoping for is to get it scooting pretty good. I have a Mazda RX7 intercooler here that will happily take the place of the spare tire under the hood and am feeling a nice intercooled 12 PSI will keep it going "quick" without making it angry. From what I read it REALLY could use an oil cooling device but I have no idea if one exists or how to even put one on. I have weird goals for this car so I'm hoping I can get it to them without breaking the bank... or blowing the hell out of this engine. Once it runs good it'll be going to the body shop to get some small rust spots (and I mean SMALL) taken care of and the bumpers/rear area fixed from some previous owner(s) accident damage. Well, until then, comments and advice welcome! ITEMS NEEDED: Knock sensor from 1985-1986 EA82. Apparently the EFI and Turbo share this part Driver side sun visor in tan/brownish color Driver side tail lamp

Let's see... current inventory between my girlfriend, my buddy who lives here, and myself... 1983 Dodge Aries K 5 speed wagon - 109,600 miles on it and going to be restored 1986 Subaru GL-10 Turbo 5 speed wagon - 107,500 miles on it and on it's 2nd engine (I think)... still runs like garbage but it's a project car. Emissions delete and slight build up for racing will eventually occur 1992 Subaru SVX - 191,000 miles on it. Engine has 160K on it and was replaced before I bought the car since the original engine had a catastrophic failure at 185K. Probably has had like 25,000 transmissions in it though. 1995 Subaru Legacy L 5 speed wagon - 196,000 miles on it. Buddy bought it at 168K and it had all new seals and gaskets on the engine. Just put a new clutch in because the old one was making rattling noises. Rear diff is starting to get a bit noisy but it's been trouble free. 1996 Dodge Dakota V8 - 172,000 miles. Besides the fan flying off of the water pump and destroying the radiator it's been good the 8,000 miles I've driven it thus far... more than half of them pulling a car behind it. 1996 Subaru Outbacks with 2.2L's and 5 speeds - One has 151K, original everything, and runs awesome. One has 211K, original everything, and also runs awesome. One has 264K, is piss beaten/offroaded/abused, and still runs awesome besides some crappy synchros for 2nd and 3rd gears. The high miles winner of the group sure as hell could use some new struts as it's become too scary to drive on the highway. There, that about does it. Wheee!