Max Power

When pulling ABS trouble codes from a 97 OB, code 46 comes up (as well as 22 & 42). I have been unable to locate any info for code 46. In addition, none of the codes can be cleared when following procedure outlined here. Anyone familiar with ABS trouble code 46? Thanks! mp

Thanks. I was afraid of that. -mp

Will SVX rims fit a 97 OB? There's a complete SVX at the local boneyard, so I am considering picking up the rims for snow tires. Obviously, I don't want the tires rubbing on anything. Thanks in advance. -mp

Sweet trick with the hood prop, JPX! I just checked my 97 OB, and I, too, have the alternate mounting hole. Leaving the hood on will save me a little bit of work, plus I won't need to bother my wife for another set of hands. Jutboy, if you have ever followed a Haynes manual (as I do), you will know why I asked the question. Overall, the manual is good and accurate. I just couldn't see removing the intake manifold for what I need to do now, despite the instructions in the manual. I will certainly post notes from my journey under the hood. From what I read in throughout the forum, the trickiest part is probably removing the 4 bolts that connect the torque converter to the drive plate. If the bolts happen to be 12mm or 14mm, I should be able to get them from the top with the one metric offset wrench I own. Otherwise, I will probably get at them from underneath with a socket and u-joint or two. mp

Legacy777, thanks for the info and the link. I forgot to mention I was going to reseal the oil pan as well, and your pictures answered a couple of questions about that task before I had the chance to ask. :-) fstwgn286, the vehicle is a 97 2.5l OB w/AT. Sorry for leaving that out. As for the power steering pump, I would prefer to tie it off somewhere and leave it in if possible. As for dropping the tranny, I thought about going that route. As I mentioned to Legacy777, I neglected to mention that I am also resealing the oil pan. I already know that the rear pan bolts are in bad shape and may cause me some grief, espicially if I'm lying on my back. JPX, thanks for the info and link. I'm jealous of your project, it looked like a worthy challenge. Between your pictures and Legacy777's pictures, I think I could do this with my eyes closed. Maybe some other other weekend... To all: Quick follow-up regarding the rear main seal...if the seal isn't obviously leaking or deteriorated, would you recommend replacement anyhow? The engine has 144,000 miles on the original seal. If the original isn't leaking, I'm tempted not to touch it. Arguments could be made for replacing an aging seal while I have the opportunity as well. Best case scenario; the seal is clearly faulty. Thanks again, everyone. mp

I need to pull the engine from my 97 OB to replace the oil plate separator. In the past 18 months, I have replaced all of the usual goodies (timing belt, cam seals, oil pump, water pump, head gaskets, etc.) so I don’t have a bona fide desire to take apart the front or top of the engine. Of course, I also don't want to make the engine removal process more difficult by leaving too much of the engine assembled. Other than disconnecting the required mounting bolts, fuel line, throttle cables, misc. hoses, electrical connections, and tying off the AC, can the engine otherwise be left intact? If so, where do I find the lift points? Taking out the radiator & fans would make sense since the engine will be drained and the additional space would be useful. In addition, I was thinking about replacing the rear main seal while the engine is out. Does the front of the engine (timing belt, etc) need to be taken apart to facilitate replacing the rear main seal? Thanks in advance, mp

I'm not sure, and you may have considered this already, but wouldn't your mileage go down since you now have more 'dead weight' in your drivetrain? That rear drive shaft ain't gonna turn itself... mp

I am preparing to replace the head gaskets in my 97 OB 2.5. The Haynes manual states that the cam shafts should be removed prior to removing the cylinder heads. I have been looking at diagrams of the engine for days and I can't figure out why the cam shafts would need to be removed at any point during head gasket replacement. Do the cam shafts really need to be removed during head gasket replacement? I know a lot of you have replaced the head gasket, and I would really appreciate your input. I intend on doing a complete seal and gasket replacement in a couple months, but right now I have just enough time to do the head gasket job and nothing more. Thanks in advance, drw

I have some knowledge of these units, but I don't have any intimate knowledge about compatability issues. I believe Monster is doing everything they can make their unit compatible with as many manufacturers as possible. Keep an eye on iPodiCruze.com. You will notice that Subs aren't listed yet, but they are adding manufacturers quite frequently. Also, since you are in the Chicago area (go Cats!) call The Little Guys at 708-754-8844. They are quite familiar with the iCruze and it's features. They will probably tell you it's the coolest accessory for the iPod ever, and I would tend to agree. Cheers. Max

I'm not sure this will helps your situation, but.... Monster Cable will be introducing the ICruze, which is an IPod controller that plugs into stock radios accomodating either 6 or 10 cd changers. The Ipod will then be controlled by your stock radio/cd controller. There is a separate 'face plate' that you will want as well, which will allow you to see what you normally see on your Ipod. Monster may have info on their web-site. I believe this item will be out in March. Good luck. Max

I’m getting ready to pull the 2.5 out of my 97 OB to do some work, and have a number of questions I’d like to toss out there before I get started. 1) Valve clearance – I will be changing the timing belt, head gasket and adjusting the valves while I have the engine out. Should I measure & adjust the valves before or after doing the other work? 2) Valve shims – Are these things proprietary and available only from Subaru? 3) Valve tool – Keeping in mind that I am pulling the engine, will I be able to complete the valve job without the special tool? Do I really want to do the job without the tool? I have read that the tool’s main existence is due to the tight clearances under the hood. 4) Removing the intake – My manual says to pull the intake before pulling the engine out of the car. I have read a few posts on here and have seen numerous pics of Subaru 2.5 engines that were pulled with the intake on. Anything I should be cautious of when pulling the engine with the intake still on? 5) Seal remover tool – I will be replacing the cam seals and as well as the crank seals. Is a special tool needed for either task? Most of this stuff maty have been addressed at one time or another on this board, so I apollogize in advance if missed the answers somewhere else.

AVK - Thanks for the info. I noticed the name Nippon on the relays. I wonder if Nippon makes the relays for Bosch.

I have a bad ABS relay in my 97 OB. Diagnosing the problem was the easy part, and now I am determined to find a replacement relay without going to the dealer. Has anyone found a source for ABS relays used in Soobs other than the dealer? How about other vehicles that use the same relay? The bone yards in my area rarely have Soobs, but I doubt the relay is specific to Subaru vehicles. If the dealership is my only option I will do it, but this board has always had terrific resources so I thought I should check here first. Thanks in advance, Max