wildseamus

I did try sea foam just in the crankcase and didn't notice any change. Changed the oil and filter after about 300 miles after the sea foam; as the oil was pretty dirty. Not sure if the oil pan was removed when the HG was replace but I assume it was not unless it needs to come off to get the engine out. If the O-ring on tube is missing wouldn't the PCV valve and associated PCV hoses be oily?....They are clean. Not sure if I mentioned....the plugs were clean (not oily) when I pulled them for the compression test.

Engine not cooked from blow HG, caught it right away. Car does not smoke or at least it's not noticeable if it does...no burning oil smell either. It does have a bad catalytic converter; waiting to diagnose oil consumption problem before I change the cat. My best guess is bad oil control rings, too much oil consumption for bad valve seals. Any other ideas I'm all ears don't really want to spend $ for rebuilt engine.

Hard to tell how much oil it used before HG as I was losing oil as an external leak....but I would have to put in about 1 quart every 3000 miles or so. I did also change the PCV value, checked all the PCV related hoses and checked the air filter. Is there anything else I can check as far as the PCV system? I had a clean air filter so I was assuming I was not losing oil (as blow-by) thru the PCV system.

My Compression test table did not transfer over well. Cylinder 1 Dry: 160 Wet: 175 Cylinder 2 Dry: 165 Wet: 180 Cylinder 3 Dry: 160 Wet 180 Cylinder 4 Dry: 160 Wet 170

Hi 2002 2.5L Forester, SOHC w/ 187k. Just had new head gasket and timing belt 3k ago. Using 1 quart oil/ 300 miles. Noticed immediately after head gasket and timing belt change. No external leaks, no oil into coolant. No noticeable smoking or burning oil smell. Engine performance seems normal; MPGs about normal 26 on hwy and seems to have power climbing. I do have a bad catalytic converter but upstream O2 sensor is new and no codes for it but do have a code for the downstream one. Did not have problem before head gasket replacement. Added Seafoam into crankcase and changed oil and filter after 200 miles. Did compression test Cylinder 1 Dry: 160;Wet: 175 Cylinder 2 Dry: 165;Wet: 180 Cylinder 3 Dry: 160;Wet: 180 Cylinder 4 Dry: 160;Wet: 170 Also did a vacuum test and was within normal range on the low end. Any ideas on to where and how I'm losing the oil? Any suggestions if changing to a different weight oil would help....using conventional 10w-40?

Burped coolant system and installed modified t-stat. I ended up drilling a couple 1/16" holes and a couple 1/8" holes in the t-stat to allow exhaust gas bypass. So far so good...after driving it for over 30 miles last night no overheating...it use to overheat in just 6-8 miles. When it would overheat the bottom hose off rad was rock hard. With modified t-stat both top and bottom hoses hot and soft and heater blows hot.Temp stayed in the normal to ever sightly below normal range, air temps in the 20s. Once I get the newer car I plan on pulling the engine and replacing gaskets and seals....as an educational experiment as my current car is a 02 Forester. I gave this car to my wife a few years ago and would like to keep it alive and learn from it. It only has 180K, not bad for a 91.

Thanks for all the advise, I'm going to try a few things tonight and see what happens. I took the original OE t-stat and drilled 2 1/16" holes through it to help the gas bypass which I'll reinstall. I'll reburp the system and try leaving the vent plug a little loose. The only real thing I haven't completely ruled out is the rad itself. I pulled it out and ran water through it and it seemed to flow alright but I don't really have anything to compare it to. Any tests I can do with in to rule out the rad....they're pretty inexpensive but don't want to buy one if I don't have to. My radiator has 2 small outlets on the driver side (top and bottom) that don't connect to anything.....just capped off with rubber stoppers....the stoppers are cracked...so I just duct taped them up. Any idea what these are for? I have a manual tranny, thought maybe they would somehow be used for an AT as it appears the radiator will fit an AT 90-94 legacy as well. Buying a newer car in late March from relatives so trying to make it last a few more months....I've had her for 14 yrs:(

Non oem t-stat, I just tested the original subaru one and it tested out fine. I had the problem with that one it too....so I don't thinks it's t-stat.

Have 91 2.2 L legacy. Overheating problem that I beleive is HGs. Top hose hot bottom hose cold, new t-stat, fan turns on, new rad cap, system has been burped....sometimes blows hot air sometimes cold air. Coolant bubbles in rad while engine heats ups, water vapor in exhaust. It overheats after about 6-8 miles of highway driving w/ air temps in 30s, coolant spills into overflow tank which overflows and spills coolant on the ground or even pops the reservoir cap, the coolant in the overflow is usually cool. Don't want to spend $ on a HG job as car's days are numbered. Will I benefit from removing the t-stat all together or drilling small holes in it? Do they make a rad cap that bleeds air? Trying to buy a little time as we're picking up a newer car from friends in a few months and it only needs to drive 7 miles to and from work 4 days/week until then.

Cleaned the crap out of IAC and throttle body and replaced the coolant temp sensor as it was a bit questionable when I did a resistance (ohms) test. Replaced coolant hoses to IAC as they were a bit swollen....and I actually cut the old one off to facilitate removal of IAC. Now she runs smooth, no rough idle. Only driven her about 20 miles since repairs but so far so good. Started easy on a 15 degree morning. Started cleaning IAC with rubbing alcohol and Q-tips....finished it off by soaking it in gas (removed electrical sensor) for a 1/2 hour and rinsed with alcohol to clean off the gas. Dried it off with a blow-dryer......came out really clean. Was a bugger getting the new coolant hoses reattached, other than that it wasn't too bad of a job. Cleaned throttle body with carb cleaner and Q-tips while the IAC was removed. I believe the major problem was a dirty IAC. I tested the resistance between my new and old temp sensor and pretty much had the same results in the freezer and in boiling water.

Switch was bad, replaced and bingo have lights!

Have 1991 2.2L legacy wagon. Fuse and bulbs good; brake/turn/running lights good. No back-up lights when in reverse. Manual tranny...what type of mechanism for lack of better terminology "engages" the back-up lights to turn on. I would assume that there is some type of mechanical switch that is engaged when the transmission is in reverse or some switch under the center console panel by the stick shift? Ryan

Thanks I'll look into both of those tomorrow and post what I find out. Ryan

Have a 91 2.2L legacy L Wagon that has a rough idle when cold. The RPMs will surge from about 300 to 1800 erratically until I warm up the car by holding the accelerator down and keeping it a 2000 for a minute or so. Problem only happens when it's cold and car will run and idle normally after warming up or starting when the temps are about 40 or so. It will die if I do not keep the RPMs up when it's cold. I've look all over for a EGR valve, either is does not have one or I just can't find it. All vacuum hoses look good as well as air filter and fuel filter is only a few months old, pcv valve also checks outs. Help, Ryan