kilowatt

That sounds great but I still have the issue with the neutral switch. Can I just jumper the neutral switch so that the ecm thinks that it's always in gear? Or will that cause some other issue?

Oh, I just thought of another reason to go through the agony of changing the tranny to the correct one. The switches are different between the two trannies. The plugs are different, the locations are different, and the neutral switch length is different. So I get a check engine light because it never sees the neutral switch change.

As much as I HATE the thought of swapping the tranny again (I'm sore today, must be getting old) I don't really want to spend more money on this project. Also, this car is 99% commuter, so I don't need dual range. If I had low range, I'd just go wheel it and brake it. Besides, it is gutless enough without going to 3.70 gears. That would lower my rpm to mph, right? If I do strike out in getting the right tranny from this seller, who has a 3.70 rear diff and how much would it cost?

Yes, my rear diff is a 3.90. The used transmission that I got is a vacuum 4wd and it is marked as a carb. I told the seller that my car was SPFI. When the tranny got here, and I noticed it was marked "carb" I figured that it wouldn't matter carb of FI. But evidently it does, because a carb car would be older and therefor more likely to be 3.70....Right? How do I know for sure when I get the next one, if it's 3.90 or 3.70? Thank you very much for your expertise!

I have a 1993 Loyale 4wd 5 speed MT. The transmission went bad so I bought a used one with 45k miles. The new one seems to work great untill I engage the 4wd. It seems to have a different gear ratio to the rear end. I jacked-up one side of the car, engaged 4wd, put it in gear and the front and rear wheels turn at different speeds. Is it possible that the transmission and rear differential gear ratios need to be matched? Did Subaru use different ratios in the rear end that need to be matched with the transmission?