[Drying time of anaerobic sealant? Permatex brand]

What is the drying time of permatex anaerobic sealant? It does not say anywhere.

After how long should I make the final tightening of the bolts and when can I start the engine. I'm figuring at least 12 hours. Its for the oil pump.

[Engine is clacking clacking and clacikin]

Stuck lifters are going to make a clicking sound. The sound you described sounds like you are off a tooth. With the engine running and the timing cover removed can you see if the timing belt is bouncing around. When you put the tensioner back in did you use a flat head screw driver to push it to the left before tightening down and pulling the pin?

 

Just got back after driving forever to find a oil pump O-ring.

 

Yes I did put it back to the left w/ flat head. I'm sure the timing is dead on.

 

I did find the culprit. A piece of RTV gasket in the rocker arm shaft oil feed line. Now I'm going to bleed the HLA's in oil and get the air out. I did not buy new o-rings for the HLAs. THey were ungodly expensive. IS there any advice out there on when doing this bleeding?

 

If there is more debris in the cylinder head passage way is it best to blow into the the cylinder head and with what type of cleaner should I use?

 

Would brake cleaner be ok?

 

I was planning on changing the oil right afterward.

[Engine is clacking clacking and clacikin]

you know for sure the noise is coming from the valve trains/valve cover area - is this true? sorry, it's hard not being able to see it and talk to you in a normal fashion. want to make sure we're chasing the right rabbit.

 

timing tensioners can appear and feel fine but make noise under load when the engine is running ,so want to make sure it's not that, that is far more common than HLAs.

 

if it is an HLA it should pump up within 20 miles of driving. this happens all the time when an engine is rebuilt or when removing the heads. the HLA's are very noisy, sounds like something is terribly wrong with the engine, but the HLA's just need to pump up.

 

if that is your problem then just drive it 20 miles and it should go away. but still odd, they typically don't just bleed down for no reason.

 

if the HLA appears stuck - run some MMO in the oil. i've even used ATF in the past to free up noisy HLA's.

 

Gary, I'm pretty sure the tensioners etc.. are ok. the noise actually appeared suddendly Tuesday morning after about 5 minutes of driving. THe noise does sound like it is coming from the right side of the motor and that is the side with the lash. ( i could move them with my hands).

 

ALso, I used the wrong type of sealer on the oil pump. I used a non anaerobic type of ATV. A piece may have come off and obstructed the passages.

[Engine is clacking clacking and clacikin]

I got the rocker assembly off. WHat is the best way to clean/check for obstructions in the oil passages? I do not want to push the obstruction the wrong way Id like to pull it out right??

[Engine is clacking clacking and clacikin]

 

You'll want to remove the rocker shaft and find/remove the obstruction in the oil passage. Do you have a service manual for the car?

 

I do have a manual. Could air just gotten trapped in the HLA? or is it that the air got trapped by lack of oil??

[Engine is clacking clacking and clacikin]

have you pulled the belt and made sure it's not the tensioner or belt slapping around somewhere?

 

I have only pulled off the right and left covers to check the sprockets for looseness and there was none. I do remember triple checking the idlers and tensioner for tightness. It was the sprockets I was unsure of.

 

Well, I did pull the valve covers off. Plenty of oil in the cover and rocker area, althouhg there was a bit more on the left bank.( noise is coming from the right bank)

 

One think I noticed was a good amount of slop ( you could move the rockers with your hand) in the right bank. This was in the valve closed position. In contrast the left bank did not have any slop whatsoever. I tried this in different rotations of the engine. Is there supposed to be any slop in the rockers? I would not think so. And if not what is the next step to alleviate this problem.

 

Thanks.

[Engine is clacking clacking and clacikin]

Ok the factory service manual states upon finishing the t belt install

 

" after properly installing timing belt, remove rocker cover and ensure that the valve lash adjuster contains no air"

It ends with that doesn't say how or what to do "if".

 

What would this imply if air was in the system?

[Engine is clacking clacking and clacikin]

Ok, so it is not a loose cam sprocket for sure. The noise is coming from the passenger side rocker "area".

 

Is there a chance the adjuster came loose on a rocker? (forgive me I know very little about these engines and I know they are not called rockers in this app but I can't remember the right term) It almost sounds like a loose rocker arm.

 

And what would the sound difference be between a loose rocker and a oil passage block causing oil starvation?

[Engine is clacking clacking and clacikin]

WHere can I get some anaerobic sealer? What brand and type?

 

Thanks.

[Engine is clacking clacking and clacikin]

Did you use RTV sealer on the oil pump? That stuff has been known to cause trouble by plugging up the incredibly tiny oil holes in the rocker shaft. The ones that feed the lifters.

 

I actually did. The high temp stuff. I still think it may be the cam sprocket being loose. I'll try that and hope for the best. If it is a plugged oil hole. What is the best way to flush it out?

[Engine is clacking clacking and clacikin]

Maybe a bad idler??

 

Try and listen with a screw driver in each head. It's a 2.2l so it has HLA's.

 

Idler's are brand new as is the idler tensioner. I did reuse the Tensioner because it was within spec.

 

I'll do the screwdriver thing tonight. I'm sorry, what are HLA'S?

 

I did tighten up the backplate screws on the oil pump along with a new o-ring.

 

I'm wondering if one of the cam sprockets has come loose and is making noise. I had a hard time getting one of them tight.

[Engine is clacking clacking and clacikin]

RUnning fine. I did the job myself.

[Engine is clacking clacking and clacikin]

This morning I decided to head to work early. THe car started out fine. I was driving all was good then all of the SUDDEN the engine, when taking off from a stoop light it started clacking pretty bad increasing as the rpms go up. so I Pulled over checked the oil, it was fine. The car is running fine. No misfire. Drives fine its just loud clacking. To my ears it sounds valve train related, not so much a deep knock, but I don't know subarus that well.

 

Car is a 2.2 1995 Legacy. I just replaced the timing belt, cam and crank seals. I drove it about 100 miles since without a flaw till about 20 minutes ago. Could something have come loose? Like an idler? But it sounds more internal and repetative like.

Could the valve lash have mysteriously just went out all of the sudden while driving??

Any suggestions?? :eek:

[Scratched inside surface of cam support where the end cam journal rides]

While trying to remove a hardened cam seal I slipped and scratched the inside surface where the cam journal rides. ( i know i know the right tool for the right job)

 

The cam support is off the car. HOw can I clean this scratch up. Is there an easy solution?

 

thanks in advance.

[Easiest way to remove cam sprockets 2.2]

you'll need ultra grey for the oil pump

 

Will high temp permatex work as a substitute?

 

If not, where can I find Ultra grey and what brand is it?

[Easiest way to remove cam sprockets 2.2]

IIR crank and cam seals from the Dealer are maybe 10 bucks each (really I think about 8 bucks).

 

 

And this is a case where I always go OEM. I also like the OEM WP gasket,

 

I just do it all - like Gary says.

 

Infact since you have a 95 occasionally I'll use the cheap belt that comes with the internet kits. Often the kit is cheaper with the belt than buying the idlers seperate. I have a collection of the MitsubOshi belts since I'll only install them on the 95 2.2's just in case. A new Dayco is like 35.00 IIR. I just do it all, oil pump Oring, the 2 Big thin Orings, WP, the whole deal. It's not much more time at all and then it's all done.

 

Only thing to stuill worry about is the baffle plate leak. Valve Covers are easy enough if they leak. I usually do new NGK plugs and evaluate the wires while I'm at it.

 

If you pull the rad I just do new coolant.

 

If you're planning on having the car a while I'd just do it all.

 

And if you're thinking of selling it in the future most folks can't seem to quantify what major maintenance like this will cost so it's an easier sell if it's been done.

 

Thanks for the good word. The left bank camshaft has an o-ring inside where it bolts to the head. I noticed some around the outside of the area. Probably from the valve cover gasket. Should I replace that o ring?.

 

I really should have got the kit. Now that I have it apart. I have noticed the idlers and idler tensioner are far from new and should be replaced. The previous mechanic 20k miles ago did not replace them ( just the belt).

 

ANd what do you mean by the "baffle plate leak"? The valve cover gaskets??

[Easiest way to remove cam sprockets 2.2]

I believe the idlers and tensioner were also replaced at 60k(when the belt was replaced). I'll go ahead and replace the cam seals too.

[Easiest way to remove cam sprockets 2.2]

n

[Easiest way to remove cam sprockets 2.2]

Yeah I guess I could do the cam seals at the next interval. It's at 80k now so that would put the next t-belt replacement at 140k. Are these cam seals good for 140k? I'm sure they are the originals. Would hate to see them start leaking at like 100k. And how much harder are these cam seals to replace than the crank seal?

 

Also, I plan on just changing the belt but still using the old idlers and tensioner. The reason being the belt was changed at 60k so I figure they should be good. I'll go ahead and check the tensioner's resistance and make sure it's within spec.

[Easiest way to remove cam sprockets 2.2]

D side valve cover is seeping. I'll replace it too. I'm pretty sure it's the crank seal. There should not be oil inside the T belt cover.

 

While it's not uncommon for cam seals to begin leaking (after all, it IS a Subaru),

So you are basically telling me that I should replace both cam seals??

 

I also think my rack is leaking but thats another project.

[Easiest way to remove cam sprockets 2.2]

So just to fill everyone in on whats going on a 1995 2.2 legacy I purchased not long ago.... and I have questions...

 

I have an oil leak that seems to be coming from the crank seal. Oil is burning on the exhaust. From the below you can see oil on the t-stat housing, oil pan, bottom of t-belt cover. I have the cover off and you can see some oil inside the bottom lip of the center cover piece. Also, some traces of oil on the front of the oil pump.

 

Before jumping off the deep end let me get a things straight. I read that an old pcv can cause access pressure and make seals leak. WIth that in mind, should I stop what I'm doing put it back together and just replace the pcv valve? Or is that just a band aid on damage thats already done and may not stop the leak but just lessen it??

 

Also, the cam seals do not seem to be leaking at all. Should I leave them alone or go ahead and replace them as preventative maintenance. THe car is at 80,xxx miles.

 

One last thing: When pulling the crank and cam seals is it possible to do it with a flat head or somthing like that? On my Mercedes I was able to use conventional tools when pulling the crank seal and had no problem. But I keep reading about using a special tool when doing this job on a SUbaru>

 

Thanks and Happy holidays.

[Easiest way to remove cam sprockets 2.2]

Today I'm going to replace the cam seal(s) and I do not have the factory sprocket wrench. Does anyone have any good ideas to keep the sprocket from moving. What type of tool or modified tool has anyone tried with success.

[Oil pump question]

Is there a gasket availble for the oil pump? Or do have to go the liquid gasket route?

[cannot undo the control arm. any advice?]

After replacing the front passenger cv joint there is a slight shuddering mainly in 2nd gear (a little in 1st) under load and under 3000 rpm's upon acceleration I goes away after 3000 rpms and does not do it in higher gears. Alignment seems good, no pulling, no engine misfire, wheel vibration etc... The car is otherwise smooth but for just that small section in the rev range and in that gear. What gives? Could it be a worn motor mount? Could replacing the cv axle tightened things up thus showing other weaknesses? What should I be looking for?

 

By the way the driver's side was replaced fairly recently before I bought the car.

[cannot undo the control arm. any advice?]

Finally got it all done!!

 

Had to take the axle in the hub to pep boys where they had a press. I just could not get it to come out on my own. As for the control arm I took it off and pounded the frozen ball joint out.