[4eat howling????? 96 Outback]

it is probably the drive shaft.

 

Yeah, It does feel notchy, I'm going to take it to get a second opinion on it cause I've never dealt no serviceable u-joints before.

 

thank you

[4eat howling????? 96 Outback]

Ok, I had kinda thought f it if it goes then I'll know what it is, so I've driven it a few thousand kms without it getting worse. But I want to make the 8hr drive to wcss so I'm back at diagnosing.

 

I pulled the rear section of the d-shaft and the noise is gone, So I'm assuming its the center diff and possibly realated to the torque bind.

[Duty C replacement]

Subaru dealer parts are pretty reasonable when it comes to pricing.

[4eat howling????? 96 Outback]

I'll have to try these, I have done the d-shaft removal thing on my ss for a few hundred k's because of bind before the 5mt swap so im familiar with how to do it.

 

No one has said Its likely internal trans bearings yet, so I'm happy about that.

 

Thank you for the input guy's

[4eat howling????? 96 Outback]

It consistantly does it in gear position 3 under decel, louder with more weight in the cargo area. I have tried to listen to it to pinpoint where its coming from, but I havent been able too.

 

The fwd fuse has been in for a month now, I just leave it in there, a few times randomly it will work(light comes on/bind goes away) but then it will go out and bind again, I have a working C solenoid to go in, but I want to test the wiring before I put it in. My schedule makes it hard to take the car apart that far. I also have a 3.9 4eat sitting there I can steal parts from, but I want to avoid failure.

 

I'm considering swapping 1 or more of my cv's with my other subaru just to see if it changes, but as far as checking them while installed, they seem ok:-\

 

Thanks

[4eat howling????? 96 Outback]

Car is a 96 Legacy Outback, 2.5l, 4eat auto, 180,000 miles

 

I have owned the car a couple months, since I bought it it has been making a howling noise under de-acceleration, mostly noticeable when the gear selector is in 3 (ei-harder decel) and a metalic clunk when I apply gas. It also makes a rattling clunk kinda noise in reverse when applying or releasing the gas.

 

I went from stock outback struts to 03 impreza in the rear and in the front stock legacy with 1-1.5 coils cut. I say this because when I have a good load in the hatch, the howling gets louder, then goes back to the way it was before when empty. The cv's have no torn boots or visual damage/wear, but they do look like the oem style and could be the originals.

 

Front and rear diffs have appropiate fluid levels as well as the tans and it shifts good, runs good . Car has also had torque bind as long as I owned it, it has worked a few random time tho.

 

Noise is starting to bug me and its one of the last kinks to work out, any advice???????

 

Thanks

[90 Legacy - What sensors are use in open loop mode]

My Outback did the same thing when the hose going from the idle valve to the intake popped off

[Front Oxygen sensor wiring]

On my Outback, it comes out of the sensor, under the cv and up to a holder for the wiring about 1/2 up the bellhousing, then the plug from the main harness comes down 1/3 down the bellhousing to meet it. Just changed it this evening.

[5mt parts frankensteinification]

Heres my tranny, one of the holes is allready there that the 00 rs slave mounts too, may be able to drill and tap the other hole, space it with washers, and brace it with another hole near it or something if the metal is too thin.

 

 

OO rs slave\/

 

[5mt parts frankensteinification]

Its not there on this trans unfortunatly, I'm hoping that I can drill and tap what metal is there and brace it with some flat stock to another unused hole near-by. This is just a beater trans setup and not my daily, so I can experiment, I just want to make sure the clutch will work with this tans and fork combo?

[5mt parts frankensteinification]

Ok, car is a 92 Legacy Turbo with a 91 Pull type hyrdraulic clutch.

 

I want to swap this out for a 90 n/a push type cable trans, I want to use the existing hydro pedal set/c-master, 00 RS slave/clutch/flywheel/fork and move the pivot ball to the other hole. The mounting holes for the slave are not on this trans, but I can fabricate mounting of some sort easy enough.

 

Anything here not gunna work? Suggestions?

 

Final drive ratios arent an issue. I'm wanting to go RWD without wrecking my Pull-type turbo 5mt.

[I think Wal-Mart Dexron VI fixed my power steering.]

Nice, a good flush can do wonders.

 

Had this happen on my Lego ss, flushed it and it worked good for a few months, but now its gotten worse then ever, not just annoying to drive worse, but scary will I make it home worse. I'm gunna try flushing it again tho

[Show off your roos Mileage!]

452,000KMs(280,8xx miles) on my Legacy Turbo Sedan ex-taxi.