ThosL

A question on this remedy for the O2 downstream anti-foul; the ones I got on Amazon are probably 1/4" opening, do these need to be larger, drilled out? Also does the upstream O2 sensor also need one of these.

With 267K plus miles, and burning some oil, I don't see a solution to O2 sensors detecting stuff that the catalytic converter cannot neutralize. So will probably have to live with the periodic loss of power for the duration.....

Also changed out the downstream O2 sensor earlier today, runs a lot better now, no sputtering! The old sensor was carboned up/black soot. New one does not have an opening that I can see.

The mechanic who put it in originally replaced the faulty wheel bearing and ball joint with new parts today; would not take any money for it beyond the parts. That's an impressive honor code. Carquest was over $40 on upper front ball joint wholesale, $65 retail. No wonder Rock Auto is so popular.

Put in an Amazon MAP sensor earlier in the year, could have failed; just google symptoms on these failing. I changed it out again, no big difference; will try the spark plug extender so the p420 code is addressed.

The local junk yard wants $125 for a spindle; I probably got the one that failed from them, so no dice on that.

I assume the Durago unit on Amazon is not a great choice, people complain about it not including seals, etc.. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LFL8JDI?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title Junk yard will be my choice, will check Rock Auto

2002 Forester; I found the source of the metal grinding noise; I changed out the brake pads and the driver's wheel was very wobbly. Replaced it with a used hub/knuckle a year and a half or so ago. Probably will look for another as my experience with pressing in new bearings has not been good.

Pulled the plugs, that are in very good shape. I got the PO420 code, catalyst system efficiency, which leads me to believe the catalytic converter after nearly 3 years is clogged up so will use some cat. converter cleaners. This is the end of the 02 sensor.

Thanks, I'm thinking that the rings/oil burning issue is affecting sensors. A friend thinks it may be a sensor connected to when the car warms up as the issue doesn't develop until then and is sporadic. I've changed fuel filter a year ago, plug wires, pvc unit, 02 sensor, etc.. I'll pull the plugs when it's not raining.

No problem starting; will check plugs, but never saw issues with them in the past.

I changed out the upstream oxygen sensor under the engine, Denso unit. Very tough to get out; less than 3 years old. I showed it to a different mechanic today, it is covered with soot, he says that it is probably running too rich. Is there any remedy for that? The p130 code has not come back up yet, as it usually takes a while. Still getting the performance issue, stuttering occasionally when it's warmed up. Thanks as usual for advice.

So, the O2 sensor (front one) replacement is not indicated? It would not cause the sputtering/stuttering? Updated; changed out the PCV, no real difference. Car is fine until it warms up, then the sputtering, so probably heat related or sensor.

I will ask them, what is customary? The machine shop charged $250 for the half of the engine they worked on. I was getting the following codes before I erased them: p130, 447,452,171, 107. Some of those could have been the result of the loose battery cable. Now just evap. system and 130. I just ordered a PCV, will see if it makes any difference. I pulled the rubber hose off and it seemed as if there was a fair amount of oil below the rubber hose intake.

Oil consumption is not bad, I'd agree the side that was not redone may be the issue.

I have this 2002 Forester with 265K miles that has been stuttering/sputtering in the last month or two. When the timing pulley failed, we had the machine shop do the half of the engine showing the low compression. I'm not getting other codes connected to performance, evaporative cannister, etc., just the p130, which is the front oxygen sensor. I'm getting some oil burning puffs, say when I'm going downhill on the uphill acceleration, burns oil then which I assume is valves. I've changed out the plug wires and ignition coil; I pulled a couple plugs which are ok, the plugs have always been fine. Any thoughts would be appreciated. I'm thinking the p130 may be indicative of excess exhaust possibly a threat to the cat. converter.

I ordered 5 quarts of high mileage synthetic Valvoline oil on Amazon and an oil filter. They did not mix up the oil, but the filter was the wrong one. What's with their vehicle matching algorithm for auto parts? You click on brand of vehicle and model and year and the matches fail. So I ended up biking down to Auto Zone because I was in the middle of the oil change with oil and filter out; they actually had an OE Subaru oil filter for about $12!

I was stopped by a cop yesterday after dark as he noticed the front beams out; though I usually have the secondary lights on. 2002 Forester. It's hard to know often whether they are on as they are not particularly strong when they are. Is this a known problem? One of the high beams work. I'm thinking replacing the bulb on the one where the high beam is not working is probably the first step. I didn't see fuses burned.

When I finally got a mechanic to check out the Forester today, the P122 stood out, and he said that until that was addressed, transmission diagnosis and work would be ineffective. I remember that I had pulled the sensor off the throttle body and put it back without examining alignment thinking that that was automatic. The mechanic saw the mark on the throttle body and mentioned that. After readjusting the sensor and aligning it properly, the Forester ran like a top.

An emissions shop sent me to the "National Transmissions" shop; said they'd diagnose it for fifty bucks, leave it for the day until they get to it. I spoke to a couple Hispanic shops, they don't have a lot of experience with transmissions and don't like to get into that type of work. Croce Transmissions charges $180 for a thorough diagnosis, I avoided stopping at Aamco, has some problem reviews, "free" diagnosis. The car is driveable but should it be driven in rough shape? I did the trip on bicycle yesterday. This is a good video on replacing solenoids: I'm went through the trouble shooting procedure, just two flashes a second so no special codes, just 731 and 122.

I saw that series of shift tests elsewhere, will try it tomorrow. I spoke to several different transmission shops and garages yesterday; unfortunately once you commit to having a transmission shop checking out or working on your car it gets quite expensive quickly. From what I've seen they often will not do limited work, ie one transmission solenoid, but want to do the whole valve body. No there is no damage to the transmission, dents, burned fluid etc..

The engine is running fine. 260k or so miles. Shifting very rough; tranny fluids are fine. Must be solenoids from all I see online.

I had this go on when I was working on the mass air pressure sensor, after disconnecting the plug. After reconnecting it it went away but is now on constantly. I've gone over possible loose wires or hoses on top of the engine for my 2002 Forester and don't see anything loose. I replaced the mass air pressure sensor. I'm thinking I may have triggered a short in the system. The Forester is now almost undriveable. Lots of jerks, losses of power when going down the street. Prior to this it was just running with lack of power at higher speeds. Thanks in advance for any trouble shooting help. I'm getting the p122 and 731 codes.

Completely reckless driver, should have the book thrown at them! There are reasons to pass slow vehicles but this broke all the rules and all reason.

Fuel pressure was 36 or more, I assume that is normal from what I've seen online. I ordered three MAP sensors on Amazon, two were wrong and the third I get tomorrow. It was a mystery to me where the sensor was, so I disconnected other ones to see if any of them looked like the right one and settled on the one to the right of the coil pack. I may have messed up the connector as I couldn't get it to snap into place. Oil pressure gauge was flashing when driving but power came back. Will hopefully get it fixed tomorrow.