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sea#3

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Posts posted by sea#3

  1. The dealer said the head gasket was leaking and wanted the radiator sent out to get flushed and replace the gasket for $2000. 

     

    I would send the rad out first and flushed then give it a try for the overheat , You may not be getting enough flow through the rad causing the 3/4 temp reading . The SOHC head gasket don't usually cause the overheat situation like the DOHC head gaskets do . I'm assuming that the dealer is saying that you have an external coolant leak and not a blown head gasket

    SEA#3

  2. You won't bend valves just turning the cams with the engine off. I have built 30+ EJ dohc engines, trust me you can spin them 360 degrees.

     

    Then you've been lucky , there is a caution in the manual as to which way to rotate the cam gear for alignment so that valve damage does not occur

    It is mentioned in the article below

     

    http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/2.5Timing.pdf

     

    SEA#3

  3. yohy ,,I should have been more clear ..

    yes you should still go through the flow chart and if everything checks out ok then i would suspect the neutral switch on the side of the trany . If you can find a scan tool that will give you live data on the switch you can put the transmission in gear and watch the on/ off signal while you gentle move the shifter in gear . If not you could try hooking up to the switch with an analog ohm meter and watch the needle for fluctuations while gently moving the shifter in gear . There should be continuity when in gear , open in neutral

     

    SEA#3

  4. Asuming it is a manual trany , you would need to replace the neutral switch on the side of the transmission ,

    What is hapening is the ECM doesn't know if you are in gear or not , so if you down shift and the revs go up it thinks the IAC is not doing it's job of adjusting the idle and sets the code

     

    It probably won't be covered under the drive train warranty but it 's not that expensive to fix

     

    SEA#3

    • Like 1
  5. quote=steve22l]and if brake lights ARE working?.....then what?

     

     

    There still could be a fault with the brake light switch .If it has cruise control it is a 4 pole switch, 2 poles for the brake lights, 2 poles for the shift lock . you will have to check for continuity,

     

    if it doesn't have cruise .Then you will have to take a look at the neutral safety switch on the side of the trany, it may have an open circuit

     

    SEA#3

  6. There may be debris floating around the rocker shaft oil delivery passage (see attached , red arrow) blocking off the oil to the HLA's

    You have to pull the rocker tower assembly to see if it is plugged

    Just like grossgary says you need to pin down which side it is.

    Endwrench has an article on the HLA's http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/Valve07MayEW.pdf

     

     

     

    Hope that helps

     

    SEA#3

    oil passage - rocker.doc

  7. As far as I can tell, yes they are. I tried to find the vacuum leak with a bottle of carb cleaner but no luck. I also just tested and reset the TPS to .48v (spec is .48-.52v) NGK Iridium IX. They come pre gapped.

    On the TPS it isn't the base voltage you have worry about it's the sweep voltage as you accelerate , the best way to check it is with a lab scope and do a sweep of the TPS . That said if you don't have one , swapping a known good one is the easiest thing to do

     

    On the plugs , don't always assume that the plug gap is correct "out of the box" they are some times set for different models . They also can be dropped and the gap gets ‘adjusted ‘

    I know it's a PIA but i would recheck them (0.039 -0.043 in)

     

    Hope this helps

     

    SEA#3

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