sea#3
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Posts posted by sea#3
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Assuming it's a new TPS and not defective, I would look at the wiring to the TPS and the connector between the TPS and the ECM. The one connector that often gives trouble is the one at the engine harness and the main harness from the firewall. It should be a gray connector
SEA#3
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There are 4 drain hoses , 2 at each front a-pillars and 2 at each rear d-pillars.
The best way to find it is drop the head liner and water test it . Not an easy job , you have to remove all the trim that contacts the head liner then drop it out the rear gate. One thing that makes it a little easier is that it a wagon
Some time the sealant at the right rear drain cracks and leaks , but most of the time there is debris in the hose
SEA#3
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Hey guys
I took my heads to a machine shop and dug thru my overhaul gasket set and gave them the valve seals
I noticed that the rubber on 8 were black and the rubber on the other were a medium green color
Obviosly they are color coded for a reason....which go where???
I want to tell the shop in case they don't know
thanks
MANUAL SAYS for 2.2 & 2.5 )
Intake = black
Exhaust= brown
They might have updated the brown to green
Hope this helps
SEA#3
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Passenger side foot well . Pull back the carpet and it under the metal sheild (2 bolts 1 nut 10mm )
Sea#3
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Yup the speed sensor #2 is in the speedo , it has probably coded up code 33 speed sensor #2 malfunction
Hook up the cable , clear the code and you should be good to go
SEA#3
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Oil Separator. On your engine it was plastic, replaced now by metal. Unfortunately you have to separate the engine / tranny to get to it. It's on the passenger side rear of the motor. Someone here may have a picture or engine drawing of it. This usually drips from the lower bell housing and is mistaken many times for a rear main seal, which also can be the culprit.
Inexpensive part.....expensive to replace.
Diagram #5
Sea#3
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The CEL is for the front bank no response.
What is the code ? There may be a recall on the ECM
Sea#3
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Go to code 24
Hope this helps
SEA#3
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'96 2.2 Legacy L automatic 108k
Ir's been binding since last spring. I get the 15 or whatever trans fluid light flashes at startup and the bind is noticable while parking in lots and in reverse. I tried the trans fluid additive, no luck. FWD fuse no effect.
My questions:
Does the flashing light evey time starting indicate that it is a failure OTHER than the clutch packs frozen up?
Could be , but more than likely it's your Duty c solenoid
Does anyone get constant torque bind without the trans light flashing?
Yes, it can happen when the valve body for the clutch pack sticks or if the extention housing the clutch pack sits in wears
I'm wondering if maybe I just need that big solenoid ( B? ) or just have a bad connection to it....
Duty C solenoid #7 on attachment You could checking for continuity on that circuit
I've been assumong I have that case casting problem I've heard of, i don't want to pull the tranny apart so I just drive it.
You dont have to pull the trany to fix the clutch assembly , you just have to pull the extension housing Aproxx 2hrs labuor
,It can be pricey for parts depending on what it needs
Local Subaru tells me I need a $5000 tranny replacement without even looking at it.
:-\
SEA#3
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This where it's at (see attached ) but doubt it's going to make noise
Does you speedo work?
Hope this helps
SEA#3
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This should help you find the resistor (#2 on page 4 and 5)
SEA#3
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Try this to pull codes
Hope this helps
SEA#3
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Try this to pull codes , Tell us what you get , it is most likely the Drop resistor, don't worry about the buzzing
hope this helps
SEA#3
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This may help you
SEA#3
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Check with the dealer there may be an oustanding recall on the front (A/F) sensor
Get your VIN # and phone it in and see
SEA#3
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One last thing that may or may not be related - when you first start this car up in the morning, everything is fine until you put it in gear and let the clutch out the first time - you have better be ready to push the clutch back in quickly, because the engine is going to self rev to about 3500 RPM. It does this for about 10 seconds, then settles down and is fine for the rest of the day. But every morning, first time you put it in gear and let the clutch out, it revs to 3500 RPM all on its own. If you don't get the clutch back in you'll take off like a bat out of ..........
Any ideas on that?
Tom
There is a ECM update for your last concern . It may fix the first concern
SEA#3
Thanks to all. Nice car but these two things are very annoying.
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I fired up the 2001 Forester this morning and found the check engine light shining brightly.
I stopped by Checker Auto and had them read the code. It was 0325 Knock Sensor Malfunction Bank 1.
Anyone familiar with this? I did a search and didn't find much.
Is this the dreaded gas cap loose code:banghead:?
I screwed the cap on tighter till it clicked at Checker and then went about my business.
The next time I fired up the Mighty Forester the CEL was gone?
.I'm confused, can anyone enlighten me?
Glenn,
82 SubaruHummer
84 GL Mad Max
01 Forester
Time for a Knock sensor.... They go open circuit with temperature change
You can find it just below the throttle body on the cable side ,Take out old one ,clean off block install new knock sensor and torque to 17 lbs/ft
Hope this helps
SEA#3
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Did you check the idlers before you installed the belt? #2 idler are known to wear , if the bearing on that idler is worn it will tip up and push the belt out
SEA#3
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I am still trying to figure out what is wrong with my CC on my 2000 OBW.
I do not hear any click of a relay when I move my steering column CC switch/Lever. Should I hear a relay?
I can hear the relay in the CC module click when the dash button is activated. I have verified the brake switch continuity.
If there is a relay for the column CC lever, where is it located? I cannot find a schematic showing me a location.
Thanks,
Jeff
This might help , you did not say if it was an auto or standard
SEA#3
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Try this attachment
SEA#3
D""m to big to send
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The whistle come in at 3000 to say 4500 under moderate to heavy load right?
It comes from the Muffler(rear) , now your saying it can't be it sounds further up.Try driving the car with the rear hatch open and you might have a different opinion . I usually get 2-3 complaint a year , mostly on Impreza's but some Legacy's
hope this helps
SEA#3
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What model and year??? It might fall under a recall
SEA#3
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Cool Stuff!! you guys Rock. I think it might be wiring so I'm going to check it out next weekend. It's most likely my fault. I took the engine out and replaced the head gaskets and when I put it back in I held up the trans with my jack, from the pan. Not a smart thing to do, but wasn't thinking at the time. Let you know how it pans out.
Got a feeling you might have crush the soleinoid !!!
Drop the pan and have a look, check the solenoid where the connector goes , if it is loose on the solenoid it is most likley done . You can also check for continuity it should be less than 1 ohm
SEA#3
Update, HELP NEEDED, O2 Sensor 3.8 volts???
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted
Ok this is only a theory
Since you have replaced the ECM and have the same out come, I would think you might have a back feed through the harness somewhere. The most likely place is the B19/E1 connector (see schematic). May be some corrosion or water in the connector. If not that, I would disconnect the C7 wire and the C20wire at the ECM then see what the scan tool says. If it says 3.8v it’s inside the ECM. If its 0 then get a voltmeter and measure the wires on the harness. Since the B19/E1 connector share the front and rear 02 sensors there may be a back feed through there
Hope this Helps
SEA#3