sea#3
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Posts posted by sea#3
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Replace the Front A/F sensor (02 sensor) it will fix your problem
It is a very common problem with the symptons you are describing
SEA#3
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but I can't seem to find the info I am looking for regarding the 2002 wrx tranny.
it's been a long time since i've been on this board and i've tried using the search funtion but i've had no success.
i'm a subaru fan, but i'm only familiar with EA-82's.
My girlfriend is looking at possibly buying a 2002 wrx, 35K miles on it, 5spd manual transmission. It's owned by it's original owner, my 45 year old neighbor, it's never been abused, etc. And I'm pretty sure it has a couple months left on the original 3 year warrentee.
I've heard of a lot of problems regarding the 2002 trannies, but the people who seem to be complaining about them are the ones who modify the cars. I've even resorted to searching NASIOC (yes, I know, laaast resort
) and all I can seem to find is a bunch of 16 year olds crying about blowing their '02's when running 435346546 lbs of boost.What exactly is the design flaw with the 2002 transmission? My understanding is it's something with the syncros? If she gets the car, it won't be modified, not even an exaust, and will always be driven conservatively (neither one of us are into accelerating/driving hard).
So, is the tranny so much of an egg that normal driving habits will kill it? It seriously will never be driven hard or abused; i just don't want her to invest a considerable amount of money into a car that's going to fail and cost me many sleepless nights repairing it.
Any info offered is greatly appreciated; I'm a pretty knowledgeable guy so you can go into detail about the car and I'll understand it; any website with detailed documentation on the transmission and it's problems would be great.
Oh, the guy wants what he owes on it, $15K dollars. He used to be a loan officer for a Subaru dealer in the Pittsburg area. I've checked with my bank and ran it's VIN by them and they told me it's worth $18,100. I've also test driven the car once, driving it about 10 miles on small streets and on the highway up to 65 mph, and everything felt top shape, including shifting. Once I have more tranny info, if it's worth buying, I'm gonna pull it into the garage and do a detailed inspection.
The tranies on the WRX are just fine if you drive it like a human ...
The warranty on the trany is 5 year or 60 k miles (powertrain)
SEA#3
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'02 Forester with 65k miles.
Got a CEL and the dealer says replace catalytic converter under warranty. I'm a little bit suspicious because of this particular dealer's reputation, but why wouldn't I let him give me a free cat if that's what the codes indicate?
Well, the car now idles rougher and has a tendency to stall out immediately after being started.
Sounds possibly like oxygen sensor problem -- could that be related to the catalytic converter work? No new CEL and I'm not sure if the start-then-stall could be related to the sensor or something else.
But, I really don't want to just go back and put myself at the dealer's mercy. I want to be armed with some info, if there's any likelihood that they damaged the sensor during the cat install.
Thoughts?
Yes they might have "Desturbed " something in the Front A/F sensor when they swapped the cat and you probably need a new one now
Hard call ... was it on the way out? possibly . It's about the age and mileage they tend to go
I would suggest they meet you half way , you pay for the part and they install for free ?
Odds are if you leave it , it will eventually code up for a PO170 fuel trim code or the stalling and hesitation will get worse
SEA#3
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The rad cap is malfunctioning , If you take off the rad cap and examine the centre piece ( metal disc in the centre ) it will be stuck closed . You should be able to move it with you finger nail . you can usually free them up by gently prying on the disc and rinsing it under water , If you can't free it up , time for a new cap
Hope this helps
SEA#3
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So I had a input shaft seal go out on me in a 96 OBW with 2.2 and manual transmission. Needed a clutch and timing belt so I tore a bunch of stuff out of my car all at once. Had lots of bonding time too
Anyhow I'm putting the tranny back together and I'm not liking how the shift rod is sitting in the shift forks. It just doesn't feel quit right. I have the center dif house on the trans axle. Its just kind of sitting there with 2 bolts in it. I'm just not liking how it feels. Of course you can't really get a shift lever on it. It feels as if its not locking the shift rod into the apporpriate gear once you put the transmission into gear. Like it has potential to get in 2 gears at once. So my question is what is the stantard procedure for putting the center dif housing on the transaxle and getting every thing lined up so it works right. Any help will be appreciated.A couple of questions
1) can you shift into all the gears?(1st through to 5th and reverse) if you can you may have one of the shift forks on the syncronizer hubs is misaligned or out of the proper grove
2)does the shifter get blocked in one particular gear ? If so you have knocked one of the gates for the shifter forks forward /back and it's going into two gears
Hope this helps
SEA#3
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They might have supplied you with the wrong PCV valve . The location is accually on the block for the PCV, there is a fitting on the manifold that looks like te PCV , but if you follow that hose down to the block you will find the PCV valve
Hope this helps
SEA#3
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Yeah my mechanic cleaned my throttle body to fix hesitation and low idle. Hesitation is fixed but low idle was not. CEL came on while driving home from him cleaning TB. Since then it has come on 4 times. Code was p1507 idle control malfunction (fail safe). I fixed the low idle by finding the adjustment on the IACV. CEL still comes on goes off comes on goes off comes on pisses me off. I have tried 4867395 things to fix it. Including cleaning the EGR, mass air flow sensor, and IACV. I an now thinking it has to be related the cleaning of the throttle body. Anyone have any past problems or advice? Thanks
What year and model??
SEA#3
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More than likely it is a wheel bearing that is gone .the easiest way to diagnose the noise is to put it up on a hoist (or 4 stands) and run it up and listen with a stethoscope
If a wheel bearing is gone there is an updated bearing ,aswell as look at the seal surface on the outer cv . If it is rusted you should replace it . Water can get by the rust and seal and get into the new bearing and shorten the life of the bearing
SEA#3
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If the caps OK , then have a look at the carbon canister and make sure the canister hasn't been hit . They are in a bad place ( right hand rear just behind the right rear wheel ) and tend to get hit and cracked which can trip this code
SEA#3
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Replace the coil . More than likely the coil towers on 1 and 2 are cracked causing moisture to enter past the boot and corode the coil tower connections and the plug wires
A easy check to see if the coil towers are leaking is to take grounded wire and pass it over the coil when the engine is running
SEA#3
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My Dad has a 2001 Legacy Outback with the 2.5L Phase 2 engine. He recently had a dealer replace the timing belt and water pump. Two weeks later both the valve covers are spewing oil. He called the dealer without much reponse and the problem got worse quickly to the point the oil was causing ignition problems, stumbling and a CE light.
The other Subiw dealer in the city where he lives (Calgary) squeezed him in, changed the valve cover gaskets and installed new plugs and wires. Problems all solved.
However, it would seem to me that the dealer that did the timing belts screwed up. I've not done any work on the 2.5L boxer, but looking at our car, it seems to me that the vlave cover gaskets must be R&R'ed to change the belts. And what is the likelihood that BOTH the gaskets would begin leaking like crazy at the same time?
I told Dad he should raise a ruckus with the original dealer, but he's not sure.
NO they would not remove the valve covers to do the T- belt and water pump
The seals that leaked on the valve cover ,seal around the sparkplug tubes , they tend to go hard and don't seal and let the oil into the tube and fill it up with oil (like you said ) and cause a miss fire
Just one of the things that happen when seals and gasket "dry out"
SEA#3
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Hi All,
I tried resetting the ECU and it seemed to work for a day but the problems quickly returned.
In the mean time, the engine light turned on. I tried checking the code and it returned,
P0172 System too Rich (Bank 1)
I'm not sure how to fix this? An error for the oxygen sensor wasn't sense; however, could this still be the oxygen sensor?
Thanks in advance,
Peter.
Replace the Front A/F sensor( 02 sensor ) and it will fix your problem
SEA#3
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Yeah, I would have thought that both cars are the same. See if you can find out what the '01 Legacy uses, wondering if it also is a ball, meaning that they went to ball, away from tapered roller, which is a shame. The dimensions you list there, the Legacy numbers are probably converted back from metric, and are actually the same. Bearings are always full millimeter sizes, and are almost always metric. Anyone have any info on the tapered rollers failing?
Subaru has also authorized the
installation of a taper roller-type
bearing, part number
28016AA030, as the replacement
part on the applicable Impreza
and Forester models. This taper
bearing is the same bearing that
is applicable to 1999 model year
and prior Legacy models.
If you have diagnosed a failed
rear wheel bearing, repair it with
the new procedure and check the
condition of the remaining side.
Replace only if needed.
The new genuine Subaru rear
wheel bearings are not to be
packed with grease of any kind.
The bearing is ready to install
out of the box.
quote from endwrench
SEA#3
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There is an update for the wheel bearings and couple of precoutions , info at endwrench http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/WheelBearing.pdf
The one thing they dont mention is the seal surface area on the outer c/v , if it is rusted at the seal surface , this can cause water to get into the wheel bearing and cause a failure
hope that helps
SEA#3
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Check the engine connector on the right hand side of the engine , the one that goes to the right shock tower , Check it for any corrosion ,also check the
terminals
Hope that helps
SEA#3
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Sorry, it's a 95 Legacy 2.2L. Like I said, the wires have all been changed, as well as cylinder 1. But I was having problems with the plug in Cylinder 3 getting tighter as I loosened, so I just retightened and left the rest of them. Should I just use force to get it out? Also, the engine was hot, so maybe that had something to do with it - maybe I should just wait for a weekend before I use the car when it's hot to do the changes?
Try this on a cold engine .. Back off the ofending plug just enough to unseat it , then get some penetrating oil and fill the plug hole with oil just to the base of the plug .Let it sit for about an hour , SLOWLY try and move the plug in and out to work the oil in then GENTLY try and remove the plug
NOTE: Crank the engine over with the plugs out so that you don't hydraulic the engine with the penetrating oil
Hope this helps
SEA#3
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I was doing a plug and wire change when I hit a snag today. The with the first wire I pulled, the clip that attaches to the plug came off, so I had to pull that off before I could continue. I got the new plug in and the new wire was fine. The next one I did, the wire came off with no problem, but as I tried to take the plug out, it seemed to get tighter as opposed to looser. I turned maybe a full turn and it got real tight, so I tightened it back and tried to loosen it again. The same thing happened, so I just left it an replaced the wire with a new one. Now I was thoroughly spooked and decided just to replace the wires on the drivers side. It may have been okay, but I was now fearful that the remaining 2 plugs would have the same problem?
So, now cylinder 1 has a new plug, and the rest are old but all the wires are new. Should I force the plug out? I took the car out for a test drive and didn't encounter any problems.
Any thoughts? I'd love to change the rest.
Thanx,
Pete
You haven't said what type of engine it is 2.2 or 2.5 and what year
SEA#3
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Came home last night and got off the freeway, clutch stuck to the floor for a minute, i had to pry it up with my foot. After that it would not let me shift into gears, I had to force it into the gears to get home the last few miles. I'm pretty sure the clutch went out, but dont want to replace the entire thing if it's just part of the clutch, any suggestions? Anyone in the Vancouver/Portland area that can help me? Where to go for repairs? Thanks-David
Try this link http://endwrench.com/main.php?smPID=PHP::article_detail.php&&RECID=327
It's a technical service bulletin
SEA#3
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You should have 12v with the igntion ON at one terminal (possible yellow wire) and the other should have a ON /OFFground signal (possible blue/white wire) with engine running
The (yellow )power wire comes from the ECM and splits off in 4 direction just under the intake manifold in the wiring harness , if you have power in the other 3 you may want to back probe the #3 wire further back up the harness and see if you have a break in the wire
Hope that helps
SEA#3
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i need help with my door locks , they keep locking even with the doors open . what do i do ? how can i stop them from doing that ?
What year and model are we talking about??
SEA#3
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Maybe the exhaust valve is open on #1 when you are doing the leak down test on #3 ??? So the air bypassing the #3 exhaust valve ( probably burnt) is going down the exhaust pipe and back into the #1 cylinder through the open exhaust valve
Sea#3
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Welcome to the board !!!
You have knocked off the hose from the air filter tube to the IAC valve ,
you will have to look underneath the tube that run between the air flow meter and the throttle body and reinstall it
SEA#3
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You just can't just put it on and not set it up or you'll get what you got
Try this web site and try the set up procedure on the 2000 Legacy
Although the pin out at the ECM will not be the same ,you can try back probing at the TPS to get the voltage
http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/
SEA#3
Issues when COLD.
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted
Start the car up after its been sitting over night (cold) , open the hood and feel the top rad hose . If the stat is stuck open it should start to feel warm to the touch with in a few minutes of running
SEA#3