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Doesn't sound like a heat shield. More like a tightly packed can of change shaking. I'm going to make a fair offer and hopefully tow it home this weekend. I'll be searching the forum and picking yr brains I'm sure. Dave I'll be in touch. I'm in Columbia County NY not far from western CT or any part of CT for that matter. Thanks

Price isn't right for that kinda work. I'm a bit of a grease monkey, fine with timing belts and most normal repairs but haven't replaced a tranny in anything before. The wagons in prime shape with low miles. Shifts fine and engine feels good just that grinding noise is making me real hesitant. Son is selling it for his deceased father, he doesn't know much about its history or cars in general it seems. I'm in upstate NY older subbies aren't to common. Any ideas on how much a tranny plus shipping might cost? I doubt my local yard is going to have one. I do have a friend who could help me work on replacing the tranny. I was hoping this was a more common issue with some simpler fixes to examine first. Obviously it's nearly impossible to diagnose problem from my description of it. Thanks

I'm thinking about purchasing a 86 GL Wagon from a CL ad. Took it for a spin today and most everything seemed fine except for when I took my foot off gas pedal there was a metallic grinding noise. It went away as soon as accelerated again. 5 speed tranny. Am I getting myself into some major repairs or is this a relatively common issue. I know in newer wrx and sti subbies this issue sometimes happens when non oem flywheels are installed. Only other problem with the rig is brakes don't work and the owner passed away and his son has no paperwork or idea on maintenance. I plan on replacing brakes and doing timing belts if I purchase it, not really looking into replacing transmission if that's where my problems coming from. Thanks

The car was running fine, minus the terrible whine upon starting, when I changed the belt. Also like I said the belt I took off was the smaller of the two and around the alt. pulley. I don't think the car would have running for to long sans that belt. Extremely odd and hard to believe but true.....That was what all my confusion was stemming from.....Oh well she's back too tearing across the ice and snow again just fine....

Mine has the regular Hitachi A/C pump. I went back to AutoGeneric store and told them what was going on a the guy gave the longer of the two belts (last time I just went in with the shorter belt I had taken off and asked for a repacement), the proper one for the the Crankshaft Pulley to Alternator with power steering, water pump, and AC along the way. It fits properly. What I am still confused about his how I only took off one belt, it's the same size belt that goes around the idler pulley and not the alternator but when I took it off it was around the alternator. The car has been running with out any problems except for the belt slipping when it's really cold out. About a year ago I was far from home and the pulleys on my timing belt seized. Got towed to a local shop where I had to convince them that the engine was fine just replace the timing and all that goes along with it. Long story (really long story involving much mechanic idiocy and an ATTEMPT to charge me nearly $2000) in doing work I didn't ask them to do they replaced the drive belts as well. Could that drive belt actually have been turned by the friction on its back side alone for nearly 15,000 miles?? Thanks for reading responding. Lesson relearned pay more attention, take pictures. Also thanks for the links to those manuals those are a great resource to have access too.....

The belt I took off was around the alternator but it is the shorter of the two belt sizes. Is it possible that the car could have been running without a belt around the crankshaft pulley? Possibly the crankshaft pulley still could have been driving the belt but only from friction on the backside of the belt where it was wedged (improperly) between the C/P and the water pump? In looking closely at the belt the back side is quite glazed and smooth. Obviously if I had taken better notice in disassembling this wouldn't be a question and regardless I have to put the two belts on properly.

Yes pictures, I know...... Thanks for those links to the manuals, that is a great thing to have acess too. It seems like I need to have two belts on there, but somehow I've only took one belt off........This is whats causing my confusion.

I second this motion. Just via searching alone I've gotten myself unstuck a couple times. Also have learned quite a bit, saved myself some big headaches, and saved quite a bit of money on repairs.........Thanks this place is great.....

In looking at the Chilton Guide it shows a few different set-ups for the pulleys/belts. I only took one belt off but from the looks of the manual I need two belts to cover all the pulleys. That would make sense as than I wouldn't have this problem of squeezing that belt into place where it doesn't feel right. But I'm still not sure of what's right..... I know this is totally ridiculous but I do need help........I'm no mechanic (obviously) but I've been doing maintenance and minor repairs on cars and tractors for years and I'm having a big brain-fart on this here simple belt replacement.......

It's cold here, really cold. Since it's been so cold lately my 94 Loyale has been starting up with quite the squeal. I know I should change the drive belt, but it's cold, really cold, and the squeal goes away. Today the car starts but is making a real nasty squealing noise, worse than ever before, and than it dies when I take my foot off the clutch....Bummer because it is cold out, really cold. I take the belt off, it's pretty glazed, go get a new belt thinking this will be quick and easy but of course it's not and it's cold here, really cold. Being in a rush and also fairly dumb I didn't take notice of what pulleys the belt went over. I can't seem to find this info via the search function so I'm here for some Subbie 101, how to attach a drive belt. I'm confused because there are six pulleys but it seems like the belt only fits over four of them and this is the same exact sized belt that was on there. Further more the only way it seems to fit is by squeezing it between compression pulley and onto the fan. For clarification the way the belt seems to fit right now is around the Alternator, AC, Power Steering, and Fan. Not on the Idler or compression pulleys at all. This doesn't seem to be correct and if it is how do I sqeeze that belt between the compression and fan. I know I'm a moron for not taking a closer look at this when I took the belt off but feel free to tell me that again. Also it really cold here. Thanks

Fuel filter will be changed this weekend along with new plugs and wires. Hopefully that's it.... What would cause the timing to need to be adjusted? Belt got replaced under 20k ago along with pulleys......

Howdy....... New(est) problem with me 94 Loyale. Need some diagnosis help.... Background; 94 Loyale, 234k miles, just replaced axles, ball joints, calipers/pads.... Driving to NY from Alabama, subbie starts to give a stutter/heave/lurch from the engine when going over 3k RPM in 5th gear generally uphill. I could go 75 on a flat or downhill but on almost any incline I could hardly keep at 60 before the heave would happen. You could feel it start to stutter a bit before it would make its big lurch and if you really babied the gas pedal you could drive fine (slowly) and not make it happen. I'm home now, searching threads trying to find out what my problem may be. Help me out... At first I thought it felt like my clutch was slipping, it sort of feels like when some when else is driving my car and they ************ up shifting into 1st, that sort of lurch forward and shake, but my previous experience with clutches going is that ususally when you give it gas the RPMs rise but no engine doesn't respond. That's not what is happening here..... Could it be loose motor mounts? How could I tell if it was? The plugs are newish but the wires aren't, I'm going to replace those and see what happens after that.... Let me know what you guys think....

Moog a decent choice for a replacement? Partsgeek has them at a decent price... I want to use something that will last. GD recommended a MWE axle for me a while ago and that was a huge improvement of the BS I've gotten before.

Ya Sir....Sounds good to me......I guess I was being a bit overly paranoid. I took it in to get aligned and the tech told me before I got an alignment I needed to replace the ball joint and that I might as well do the whole knuckle while I was at it. Seems like just the ball joint is all I really need to do for now. Thanks guys....

Yeah the pickle fork is a good call, I'll be going out to buy one right this afternoon. As far as the knuckle goes, I suppose it's not imperative that I replace it. It just seems pretty worn and while I'm working there I'd like to replace it...As long as I get the ball joint replaced should be safe sailing home....

Given the circumstance and consequence of failure if I can not get a knuckle I'll replace just the ball joint before leaving. It would make me much happier if I could replace the entire knuckle, get an alignment, and drive 20 hours home. But given the choice between potentially have a major accident on the interstate or just replacing just the ball joint, I'll go ahead and replace the ball joint.

I made it from NY to Alabama holding my breath the entire time waiting for the front left ball joint to fail and all hell to break loose on I-81. Thankfully that didn't happen but I do need to drive back to NY soon and I don't know if I can hold my breath like that again. I have a 94 Loyale. No junkyards around here have one. The local parts store only have the ball joint itself. I'd like to replace the whole knuckle. Do any of you knuckleheads have one? In the holiday spirit if you send me an external harddrive along with the knuckle, I'll fill it up and mail it back to you with over 200 gigs of music. Everyting from Armstrong to Zappa........ Get back to me in this thread or shoot me an email at MJYund@gmail.com Cheers.........

Sooo....Caliper wasn't retracting properly, heated up enough to seperate the pad from its backing.....I replaced the caliper today and discovered the ball joint is in need of some love......Supposed to be leaving for a 1,000+ mile drive tomorrow..........hmmmmm.....to chance or not to chance.......To drive old Subbie with a bust ball joint or the 97 Jetta that started screaming my CV joint is F'D about a week ago??? also next time i replace pads I will make sure to remove all fluid from the caliper and do a better overall job of cleaning it.

94 Loyale Just finished changing front right axle, front brake pads, and put snow tires on. It's after mid-night and I took a 20 minute cruise to see how she felt, test the brakes, drive through some snow at night etc.... Everything seemed fine while driving, but for some odd reason I reached down and touched the newly installed axle nut and that thing was pretty f'n hot. I checked the other axle nuts and they were warm but the new was would burn my hand if I left it there for 10 seconds. The hub behind the nut was also hot. I find this odd and I'm not sure what it is a sign of. Any ideas????? I'm driving from New York to Alabama this weekend and this concerns me a bit. Could over torquing that nut cause a problem? (the torque wrench in our shop was busted so I winged it, I know not the greatest idea) I need to get an alignment done for the snowtires. Could the alignment being off somehow be causing this to happen? Could it be something to do with the new brake pads? Why only one side.... It's past one A.M. and I have to work early so I'm going to sleep. My brain is a bit fried and I'm not sure what to think of this situation. Throw some ideas my way, I won't be able to do anything about till after work, maybe it will be something obvious when I look at it tomorrow. Right now though I'm quite puzzled, a bit worried, and hoping someone out there has some idea of what might be my problem.............Thanks....

I've got the piston most of the way in with much damage to both the piston head and my knuckles. I'm wondering if I can hook up my air compressor to the caliper to see if that piston will come back out. Is there any other way to test this out besides just hooking everything up and seeing if the brakes work or sieze up??

The caliper kit did not come with a new ring and it seemed like the old ring was in fine shape so I was reusing it. It seemed to fit back in fine. I'm thinking that possibly I need to take the piston all the way out again and sand it down. I didn't notice any rust on it but I am replacing the boot because the boot was torn so some layer of gunk could have accumulated. It feels like I could really force that sucker back in there but I'm worried that is just going to create more of a problem in the future. I'm leaning towards a new caliper or a new caliper piston but thought someone here may have some suggestion or idea I hadn't thought of. Really what I'm wondering is if I can force that mother back on there does that mean it can some out again under normal use or could it be that I'm just jamming it on there under such force that it will stay stuck. I understand noone can say for sure I'm just looking for thoughts and exeperience.....Thanks....

There is no fluid in there at all but I'll give that a try. If exerted an extreme amount of effort and patience and was willing to bloody all my knuckles in several places I believe I could get that piston back in there. My concern is that if it is that hard to get back in will it come back out. I've done this before without such problems. As far the are brakes important question it was mostly just an attention grabber not meant to be too serious of an inquiry but if anyone has any intersting stories regarding brakes, opinions on them, theories, ideas for stopping without traditional brakes, feel free to let those thoughts be known.......

94 Loyale is the car....... First question are brakes important? Discuss. Secondly and on more serious note I rebooted one of my calipers and now am having quite the struggle in reseating the piston. I was able to get one of them back in with some pliers and a vice but no luck with the other. I went out and got an attachment for a rachet that is supposed to help turn the piston back in but about all it has done is tear up chip and strip the inner groove on the piston. My questions are... Is there a better tool for this job? Can I tear up the piston groove to a point where it becomes unsafe to use? If the first piston went in fairly easy and this one is a serious struggle to turn 1/16th of a rotation should I just be replacing the whole caliper or maybe just the piston or maybe I need to clean the piston somehow? I've done some searching here and can't seem to find quite the answers I'm looking for.......Sorry for the essay/thanks for reading.....

MMMM brakes, brake fluid hasn't been changed for sometime. Thanks for the suggestion; something else to inspect closely I hadn't thought of. I just passed N.Y. inspection where they take the wheels off to look at the brakes so they can't be in too bad of shape or I'm sure the shop would have tried to shake me down for a few hundred......Spare alternator is something I had been thinking about. I might as well have it, if I don't it will die and I'll need one sometime anyways.....