Mr Whiskey

Thanks 3eyedwagon, a friend of mine that used to own one just told me the same thing. Gonna check that next. Any idea what the voltage and resistance readings should be? How much should one cost? Thanks again, peace.

Thank you all! I will check the fuel pressure regulator and voltage to injectors. I don't really know how to check codes on this car, might have to have someone else look into that. The more I think about it I guess I need to listen to see if injectors are cycling with key off. We were parked for about an hour and when we tried to start it it only turned about 1 time, then stopped hard, like cylinders were already full of fuel. I'm thinking like 91Loyale said, it feed residual fuel line preasure into cylinders while it sat in parking lot. Any idea what might cause it to do that, on all 4 cylinders? 91Loyale never diagnosed his. Opionions, suggestions, best guesses greatly appreciated! Thanks, peace.

What sensor or component would allow all 4 cylinders to be full of fuel. When I say full, I mean swimming! Seems to me one of two things happened. Intectors stayed open when we shut it off (bled line preasure into cyls), or injectors went wide open as soon as we hit the key. I have no idea what would cause this and hope someone here might be kind enough to point me in the right direction. This is my sons car. So we drive it to church Sun. night and it runs perfect, but when we come out it wont turn over. Thought starter of course, wasn't. Long story short, pulled all 4 plugs (had too, motor would not turn over) and hand cranked engine with ratchet and socket. Raw fuel pours out of all 4 plug holes as you turn motor. (Motor turns free now that all that liquid has somewhere to escape.) You could see it pooled up in the cylinders before I turned motor. It is deffinatly gas, not water or oil. I know once we solve the problem I'll have to do an oil change and replace the plugs. Some back ground; 85 gl 10 wagon, original 61k miles, ea82 mpfi (it is mpfi, one year only on fwd models) non turbo, automatic. The fine folks here at USMB have already helped me be the "hero" for my Son once before and I'd sure appreciate it if ya could lend your expertise again. Thanks to any and all in advance, and thanks for a fine site to come and seek help, peace.

Plannin to pull both heads when we can afford it. I did enough motor work back in the day to know better than just do one. You'd end up right back in there sooner or later. She's gotta have a valve job so might as well do it right. Thanks again to all the good folks here, and happy holidays. Peace from DG and Kody.

Dragging this post back to say thank you, and happy holidays to all! My Son and I couldn't have accomplished as much as we did without the wonderful help and support of the good people on this site. As promised, here was the final diagnosis: Stuck exhaust valve, right front cyl. We did a leak down test as suggested by Subyleone and the pressure was comimg out the exhaust. Then pulled the valve cover and inspected visually, confirmed, exhaust valve not moving. Shame too, less than 62k mi's., it's in time, (matter of fact it's actually got new timing belts) but I guess it sat too long. This is unfortunatly more of a job than I am willing to attempt in the driveway with hand tools, so we're gonna find a shop that works on Subies and pony up the scratch to get her fixed. I'm still sure it will make an excellent car for my boy once the repairs are completed, and I'm also sure we will have more questions down the road. I'd also like to send a special shout out to GeneralDisorder and Hatchsub who, in there crosstalk, helped greatly with the identification of this particularly unusual incarnation of a great old Subie, (mechanics kept trying to tell us we didn't know what we were talkin about) and we'll watch those injectors. Thanks to all and we'll be seein ya, peace.

Thank you all, I believe we're closing in on it with your help and advice! Here's what I now think, tell me if my head's in the right place. Right side timing belt broke or stripped. I'm figuring if the right side cam isn't turning at all then maybe the front cyl is sitting with a valve open, and the rear is sitting on comp stroke, (valves closed, hence 120 psi reading). We lost the light before this idea came to us so we'll pull timing cover tommorrow to confirm. Sound to y'all like I'm headed in the right direction? Probability of this is high in my opinion, car sat for 3 yrs or more, I'm sure these belts were brittle. Son just got car, haven't had it a week. I'm expect these are the original belts. Was running on 4 cyl fine first couple of days then developed intermittant issues, (would drop what I thought was 1 cyl). Car is now running on left side 2 only, I'm positive. Pulling both right side plug wires doesn't affect it at all. This is a non turbo. It says mpfi on top but, Hatchsub is right, the injectors are in the intake, not the head. So it's an spfi? Is that correct? No water in oil, (or vice-versa), no overheating, no coolant loss, etc. I'm almost sure this wagon is factory original, never been opened up or had any "deep" service in it's life, (like timing belts). I know if I can solve this problem for my Son then these motors run forever and would make an excellent car for my boy. Here's the trick ? When these motors drop a timing belt, are they known to bend valves? I've driven the car running on 4, it was solid, ran great. I've also had it running on 2 more than once now. What would you say my risk factor might be concerning valves if that cam has stopped turning. Bless you all and this fantastic site, we're learning, thanks, peace.

Please forgive me, I expect I'm not doing this right, but as we get further into the diagnosis of this vehical I'm finding it necessary to start new post, as what I thought I knew changes. Please don't hold it against us, my Son and I, we're new to this. We appreciate all the valuable experiance here and are truly thankful for all who are tring to help. We hope you might read our newest post "No compression right front cyl/120 psi right rear " and continue to provide your insites and expertise. Thanks to all, peace.

Please forgive me, I expect I'm not doing this right, but as we get further into the diagnosis of this vehical I'm finding it necessary to start new post, as what I thought I knew changes. Please don't hold it against us, my Son and I, we're new to this. We appreciate all the valuable experiance here and are truly thankful for all who are tring to help. We hope you might read our newest post "No compression right front cyl/120 psi right rear " and continue to provide your insites and expertise. Thanks to all, peace.

Could this be a timing belt issue or does it have to be cam/valve, rings/piston related? If bad timing belt, wouldn't it loose comp on both these cyls? I don't have any experiance with these motors. In your opinion, what would be the most likely cause of 0 compression on the right front cyl.? I have other post here conserning this vehical, please forgive me if I'm going about asking questions the wrong way. I'm not only new to Subaru's, but new to message boards too. This is an 85 gl10 wagon, ea82, mpfi, auto, frt whl drive only, with just 60k mi.s. Thanks, peace.

Sorry, forgot that part, MPFI. We've pulled the plugs and cranked the car to check spark, looks yellow/orange, not good blue/white. Car will start on left 2 cyls, then pick up the right 2 as it gets warmer, then drop them back out just going 'round the block. Thanks, peace.

What would make both right side cyl's intermittant? Could electronic ign module or pick up cause this? Spark looks weak to me. Seems like something is gettin hot and breaking down. Has good compression, will run fine on 4, just keeps cutting the right 2 out at the same time. Injectors are spraying. Plugs and wires are good. Cap and rotor button look fine. Most of this is written up in my other post but it seems we're chasing more than one prob so I thought I'd try a new one. 85 gl10 waggon, ea82 auto, mpfi, front whl. only. Thanks to all in this community, my Son and I couldn't have gotten as far as we have without y'all, peace.

Well its rained all day ive not messed with it! but if it was the cam belt why would it have been cutting in and out(on two)? I've got fuel,fire,air, and comperssion!!!! The fire is the only thing i can find that changes(when it goes from four to two)! does anyone know if the pick up or the mudule under the distubor cap fires the motor one side at a time? im really thinking its something in that distubtor. its just too intermitting. if im just way off someone plz shout out!!!! THANKS FOR ANY AN ALL TIPS!

Okay, first off thanks again to all who are trying so hard to help us, we're learning (I think, haha). Here's the days new info and progress: TPS connection looked fine, cleaned and dressed it anyway just to be on the safe side. Decided not to "hard" ground the fuel pump because if it was a bad ground it wouldn't have run in the first place, and we've got good flow. Tried to start car a couple of times, sounded like it wanted to run. Finally just cranked the p*** out of it while pumping the accelorator hard and fast. Got car running, on what sounded like 3 cyl. After it ran for about 3 min's it cleared and ran fine. Idle perfect. All four cyl's solid, I'm sure of it. Drove to parts store, (pump still whineing, car trying to stall again) and put injector cleaner in tank. Ran same, no noticable diff. Got home and had Son keep car running, started pulling plug wires. Both right (passenger) side plugs make no diff. It's running on the left two only. You can start, and keep, car running on only the left two cyls. Did not do this long. Can not get all four again at this time, sounds just like it did this morn when we first got it running, before it mysteriously cleared. Pulled right side plugs and cranked car, got fire but looks yellow/orange not the good blue/white fire we had yesterday. Pulled right side injectors, reattached them to electrical and fuel rail with them out of the cylinders, cranked car, we're getting fuel. Changed right side plug wires, I had two jeep wires that worked, spark still looks weak to me. ? what would cause week spark on only the two right side plugs. I don't believe it's a timing issue cause it's been so intermittant. If it was trying to jump time then it wouldn't suddenly run fine on all four. I'm trying to borrow a compression gauge to make certain but I still believe compression is good. We're gaining on it! I'm sure the right side two are cuttin out, just don't know why. I hope one of you fine folks goes, "oh, that's easy, replace this" and tada!! Still thankful for technical info and best guesses all, peace.

I think you've got me confused with another post I saw on here Dude. I don't have any noise coming from the turn signals, it's comming directly from the fuel pump itself underneath the car. So loud you caint drown it out even with the radio. I am gonna check and see if signals or break lights have any effect on "pitch" of noise like that post was talkin about, (assuming we can ever get it running again). I'll let ya know later tonight, peace.

Thanks again Cougar! Yes I'm getting good fire to all 4 plugs. Checked all the fuses, they're all good. I think I can find the TPS now that you've told me where to look. We'll clean those electrical connections today. Would it hurt to straight ground the fuel pump, just temporary, to see if it solves the problem? (I had a motorcycle wreck once and it caught fire, I sure wouldn't wanna see that happen in my Son's car.) Could you describe the fuel pressure regulator, where to find it, any way to check it? Suggestions on cleaning injectors? It might help me get it running again but I don't think it's gonna solve my noisy fuel pump issue. Bless you Brother, cause this thing's drivin me bonkers, peace.