Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board

BillAileo

Members
  • Posts

    40
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by BillAileo

  1. Have you owned the car since it was new? Is there a possibility it was previously involved in an accident that may have somehow affected the control device that sets off the air bags? Have you ever had any dashboard warning lights come on regarding the SRS system? Knowing the answers to such questions would be helpful to you in determining the reasonableness of your various options.

     

     

    Bill

  2. Trouble Code P0120 is the code for a problem with the throttle position sensor. I believe that sensor on the '96 is located on the side of the throttle body. It's a fairly simple device to replace. I think you should be able to purchase one for about $60. Recommend you start by making sure its wiring harness has not come loose. If it's properly connected there is probably a good chance with that code that the sensor is bad and should be replaced. I believe a failed throttle sensor puts the car in "limp home mode" which would be consistent with the symptoms you are describing.

     

    Good luck.

    Bill

  3. I had the same connector problem with a '96 OB. My conclusion was that the last time I had replaced the bulb one of the prongs slid in adjacent to, but not into, the corresponding slot of the connector. This led to arcing and ultimately a fried socket. I went the junk yard route and got a "new" connector with about six inch leads which I soldered into place. Worked just fine.

     

     

    Bill

  4. Powederhound,

     

    I believe with a 98 legacy 2.2L you have mechanical linkage for your clutch. I think the best first step for you, after melting off any ice/snow restrictions,would be to confirm the clutch cable is properly adjusted. Slipping can easy occur, particularly in higher gears, when the cable is out of adjustment. Many dealers/repair shops ignore this possibility and immediately suggest replacing the clutch. You might bet many more miles out of your clutch if it only needs a cable adjustment.

     

    Bill

  5. Assuming the 2000 Outback clutch is similar to the '96 clutch I would recommend that you have the adjustment of the clutch cable checked before going to the expense of a new clutch if the only symptom is slipping. Two years ago my sister was told by a dealer that she needed a new clutch at about 125,000 miles because her's was slipping. An adjustment of the cable, however, ended the slipping and she's been driving it for these past two years on the original clutch with no problems.

     

    Bill

  6. c150l

    I don't know why the link isn't working for you. Maybe this will get you to the article:

     

    (1) Go to http://endwrench.com/main.php?smPID=HTML::home.html

     

    (2) Select Archives

     

    (3) When the Archives screen appears go to the System Search portion & scroll down to select "Engine Mechanical" and then click on "Show System(s)"

     

    (4) When the listing of articles appears scroll down to the Fall 2000 article entitle "2.5 Liter Twin Cam Timing Belt Replacement"

     

    Hope that works,

    Bill

  7. Do you have access to an ohm meter and feel comfortable using it? If so, there is an interesting article on diagnosing Subarus at http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ic/ic30332.htm

     

    That suggests checking out the knock sensor using an ohmeter as follows:

     

    The Knock Sensor will have a DTC of P0325. If the harness appears intact, test the sensor at its disconnected harness connector. Check resistance between terminal 2 and ground. The Knock Sensor should have at least 400 k/ohms of resistance.

     

    Bill

  8. In theory, additional undercoating may seem like a good thing, but I have grave reservations about adding it. Some of my reasons are:

     

    (1) Drainage is critical to rust avoidance, marginal application of aftermarket undercoating can plug drain holes.

     

    (2) Some apoplicators creat new holes to spray their products. Not sure that's a good idea

     

    (3) Unless the car is absolutely dry when new undercoating is added you can be sealing in mosture.

     

    FWIW: I also live in an area that uses a lot of salt. Rather than more undercoating, I try to occasionally high pressure wash the underbody of my cars in the winter period in an attempt to wash off salts.

     

    Bill

  9. Assuming the specification for the rotors on an '02 are the same as for an '03 the following are the rotor speficications:

     

    Front Rotor: Standard thickness .94 inch Minimum thickness .87 inch

     

    Rear Rotors: Standard thickness .39 inch Minimum thickness .335 inch

     

    If you've already had these turned twice, you may be approaching the minimum.

     

    Have you been replacing the pads after you have the rotors turned? I believe that is highly recommended. In addition, some after market pads, particularly those that claim less dust, can also generate more heat, which means, in my opinion, more trouble.

     

    Bill

×
×
  • Create New...