colossal_monstrosity

Ok, well the motor still wouldn't turn over today after sitting with Marvel in it since Monday, but most of that leaked out anyways - 2 exhaust valves were open, and I guess the other 2 cylinders didn't seal so great. So I pulled it out this afternoon, tried it again with it out of the car, still didn't work. I also looked for signs of clearance issues, but there definately weren't any. That engine fits to the ea82 tranny with the adapter plate better than the original engine did. So I guess I'm shopping for a new motor now. This one is going to go into the car nice and dirty. Thanks for the help.

Ok steve, I will try it your way. I was gonna take the radiator back out, undo the fuel lines & ps, drain all my fluids, remove the throttle cable and unhook all my wiring, AND do what you said, but your shortcut is an inspiration to me making mistakes everywhere....I just didn't want to do it like that since I always seem to break stuff when I cut corners. Also, about the dogbone...are you telling me there is a way to make the dogbone mount bolt on with the ej22 swap? I was wondering about that and just how far the engine was gonna move with the way I shift when that mount wasn't in place...was thinking of taking it to a shop and having them fab me something to replace it once the job was done...

I am racking my brain but I can't figure out what could possibly be in the way of the flywheel and still allow the transmission to bolt on without any problems. I'm not sure, but I may have turned over the engine by hand after I put the tranny on, but I can't remember. God I don't want to pull it out again tomorrow...

That thought has crossed my mind steveman, I just thought I was crazy since I can't imagine how that would happen in the first place. I'll try to find some time to do that today or tomorrow.

Ya if I can find one. The clutch probably wasn't slipping, since the front wheels insta-locked when I dropped it. I am just gonna have to wait a week and see. My buddy said he uses some other stuff in his motorcycle shop to do this, like Chromium or something like that...try that if Marvel doesn't work. It might work better if the marvel wasn't pouring out the exhaust valve in #3 (probably).

Ok I went and bought 2 quarts of Marvel. I poured about 1/2 quart in the no. 1 cylinder before it started leaking out, #3 took a whole quart and still didn't leak out, so I stopped, and I put 1/4 quart in 2 & 4. I guess I gotta go back and get more tomorrow...sigh...

Assuming this does work, the engine I'm swapping in had 209k on it. Well, the odometer in the car said that, but I head it run and revved it and everything first. Seemed pretty clean. What should I be afraid of breaking first if I get it to work again? Main bearings, head gasket, etc.? I was leaning towards main bearings, since most of my shifts in any car are upwards of 4 grand.

Ok, definately doing that. Should I put the spark plugs back in while it's sitting? Feel free to comment on the video too :-D

Roger that. Guess I better go get a new breaker bar. Do I need to completely fill the cylinders with oil or what? Also, do you REALLY think this will work, since popping the clutch @ 25 mph a couple of times didn't fix it?

Hmm, sounds like I should try that. I was actually thinking about what happened and it doesn't entirely make sense. I had the intake off and was cleaning the engine with degreaser and a hose and wire wheels on a drill. In the course of this, I filled the cylinders up to the intake ports with water a few times. When I was done, I turned over the motor with a wrench a few times to drain out the water. Then I sprayed some brakleen, followed by wd40 into the cylinders and turned it over some more. Then it sat for about 2 months. The other week I put the crank pulley back on and it cranked over a few times no problem. I then installed the intake and put it in the car, and here I am now. But NOW it won't turn over. That doesn't sounds like it's seized to me. Also, after I washed it, I changed the valve cover gaskets and oil pan gasket about 3 days later, didn't find any moisture/water/rust. Any thoughts with the new info? And for your enjoyment at the same time, my first wagon and some of the things we did with it. I have a bunch of film with it, gotta cut down the size of some of my other vids and post them too. Enjoy. http://www.ywave.com/~ieatz28/Tire_Sim_Short.wmv

This is the tale of my EJ22 swap in my 92 Loyale, and how it has turned into a disaster. Ok, so I get a good EJ22 and all the wiring in the junkyard back in like, march, and put it all together (the wiring). I finally got around to actually sticking the motor in my car last month after taking all summer to do the wiring and a thing or two here and there, along with replacing my heater core, and switching to manual seatbelts from automatic, tracking down misc parts in the junkyard, and playing hooky with clutchmasters to finally get them to send me the right clutch. Stuff I bought for my swap: -EJ22 + wiring= $350 approx from junkyard -EJ-EA adapter plate=$200 -New EA82 clutch kit/clutchmaster= $190 -Machine work to install thermoswitch, turn flywheel, redrill bolt holes=$60 -Cryotreat flywheel & ship it back and forth=$120 -New front brakes= $100 -20mm sway bars=$20 -Seat belt swap parts=$50 -Fluids=$60 -Intake, exhaust, valve cover, thermostat gaskets= $100 -Exhaust downpipe w/cat & o2=$50 -14" fan that is way too damn big & relays=$170 -Small cutting torch, goggles and o2 to cut up front of the car to install said fan $100 -Hacking the EJ wiring into my car- 4 bruises to my skull & arms - $60 short ram intake - $60 MAF adapter for short ram intake & k&n filter - $30 silicone coupler to attach MAF to said intake -$20,000 Mazda3 S Hatchback because I was tired of driving my moms car Started this project in May...just got it to the point I could turn it over last night...But noooo....there is no power to the starter solenoid. I jumped it manually but it wouldn't turn over the motor, so I figured I had a bad starter. Today I tried to at least get the wire to give the starter power before I replaced it, but had no luck, so I just ran a fresh wire straight from the key. Ok, that's fixed. Tested the starter: it works fine. Decided to see if I could turn over the motor by hand...nope Added a 3 ft breaker bar; snapped my breaker bar off in my socket (Craftsman) This is the part where I started freaking out. I hopped in my mom's Outback, hooked up a tow strap to my car, and put it in 1st gear to try to roll it along and make the motor turn over, but I'm pretty sure at this point that I'm f***ed. So I start towing...er, dragging it along. The front tires won't turn at all, even in first gear...I just merrily dragged my Loyale down the driveway. Then I hopped in the loyale, and had a buddy tow me down the street up to about 25 mph a couple times while I dumped the clutch. Still no dice, but at least it stopped pretty quick. So I towed it back and parked it in the driveway and am feeling pretty shi**y at this point, so I give the windsheild a fairly mild punch. ...and manage to create a spider crack across my entire windshield. Now I feel like crying, since I not only need a $300 exhaust still built, but now a $250 windshield, and who knows how much for another EJ22, plus I still have to find one and put it in. Now everyone is wondering why it is seized. I would guess because I washed it. Let that be a hard lesson for me. Someone sell me an EJ22, or an old toyota tercel hatchback, preferrably one of the funny ones that revs to 8500 rpm.

Thanks AVK. You nailed that one. I think I'm just going to tap a hole and put it in that. Let's hope I don't end up with a hole I can't fill. Thanks for the help.

#1 is definately NOT my crank angle sensor, I know which one is my crank sensor. It is definately some kind of coolant sensor. So, can I even just "plug in" this new thermoswitch in place of the stock one? It seems everyone says the stock one does more than just turn on the fan, so would it be better if I just tapped a hole somewhere and used that?

Ok, so I'm working on an EJ22 swap in my Loyale. The EJ22 came out of a 93 legacy, 5 speed, awd. The problem is that the repair manual is no help when it comes to identifying which switch is the stock thermoswitch, so I was wondering if anyone could help me identify, so I can pull it out and install the one for my aftermarket electric fan. The choices: 1. One wire male spade connector pointing up (towards the hood) directly above the crank, on the very front of the motor. 2. 2 wire plug on the coolant distribution thingy that bolts to the top of the engine (that the upper radiator hose plugs into). It's the larger of the two. 3. Right next to choice number 2, there is a much smaller one, with only one wire and a male spade connection. Can anyone help me identify these? My best guesses: 1. coolant temp sender (temp gauge) 2. fan #1 coolant thermoswitch OR coolant level light? 3. fan #2 coolant thermoswitch OR coolant level light? Please don't guess - I guessed. I need to know for sure. I don't want to do it twice, especially if I tap the threads. Thanks for the help guys.

Thanks for all the info guys. BTW, my question was about the stock Ypipe for the EJ22, not the EA82. But everyone seems to agree on that. Not everyone seems to agree on the PS lines though. I threw a quick glace at them, and they sure don't look like they would work. I was thinking something along the lines of I'd cut the rubber part of the stock ea lines, and then cut the ej22 lines in the same place, and take them to the parts store and have them fit them together with their...whatever they use to press hydraulic hoses. But if they just work, then that's great. New question: is it safe to hook up the stock alternator charge wire to the alternator on the ej22? Or is it too much? I was just going to hook the stock charge wires from *BOTH* engine harnesses to the battery, and hardwire a charge wire. Any comments on that?