gruhfy

Thank you for the reply. I am hoping that the dealer checked the speed sensors while they were poking around for 3 hours. My interpretation is that the computer is satisfied that the conditions have been met and is trying to lock the converter, but it is just not hapening inside the trans. I found a few pages of the manual on the internet which shows what bolts go where, and which valves operate the different shifts. (Illustrated as upper, middle and lower valve body) I work as a machine builder for a manufacturing company and feel comfortable using a micrometer and calipers and taking anything apart. I would really like to remove the lockup valve, check the spring free length and ensure it is working correctly. Only problem is that I don't have a benchmark of what is "correct". I assume that it would be sticking or show signs of a worn seal if it were bad. Any advice if this is a good idea or a really BAD idea for someone who has never been inside a trans. Worst that can happen: I need to buy a rebuilt trans and the problem would be fixed (This is the last resort, least desired result.) THanks again. vb.bmp

I am working on a '98 Legacy Outback with a check engine light: code P0740. The dealer has $250 of mine and only told me that everything checked out OK outside of the trans (Brake relay, wiring harness etc). After code set, I only noticed the TCC lock once, that evening, and not since (3 weeks later). The dealer said I can either drive the car or pay to have them dissasemble the trans. I would like to remove the valve body and root around myself. Any tips on valve body removal for the advanced DIY person who has never been inside a trans? Is a valve body rebuild kit available? I found a diagram from the shop manual posted on the web, but I have no idea what to expect in the way of special tools required. Please help. Thank you.