JeffStu

So I looked into it and I'm certain my hillholder is crapping out. The cable is adjusted very loose yet it continues to stick. Any ideas how to defeat the system altogether? I know how to drive a MT and don't think I need hill-holding.

Interesting for sure. I've noticed that it stick particularly badly when I stop on an uphill slope. Does that sound crazy or not?

Can I please get some help locating the ABS fuse. I'm a total idiot and can't find it anywhere.

Thanks for the reply. Could you be more specific about which year and/or motor might use the elusive 2-bolt gasket? I need to find one before I have to get my car smogged.

So the squeal was from the accessory belt, The bolt on the alternator stripped out and I was getting no tension. Fixed that. Back to the heads: I'm thinking that the heads on my car are not original. Firstly, the valves bent when the belt broke. Also, there are three bolt holes on the exhaust manifold and only 2 holes in the heads. The wrong manifold gasket has led to a leak, which is probably causing my o2 sensor code. Any ideas on an easy fix? I'm about to go all Thelma & Louise with this car.

It is a refurbished caliper purchased from Kragen. Like new. It came with new pins/bolts and i used the grease provided. I'll look into it, especially considering the ABS advice also found in this thread. Thanks guys. Keep the sound advice coming =)

This is turning into a long project =( New thread started =)

My passenger rear brake is locking up sometimes when I come to a stop. Makes it very difficult to get going again. I can usually get it to release by pumping the brakes. I've bled the brakes clean a couple times and replaced the caliper, to no avail. My car has ABS and only 1 channel is locking. So I'm wondering if there is a sticky valve or some such thing in the ABS. If any of you have any ideas, I'm all ears. Thanks in advance.

So my rear brake is still locking up sometimes. Any ideas how to fix that? I've bled the hell out of it. Maybe a bad valve in the ABS. I'm at my wits end and money is very tight. Thanks in advance, Jeff

Shouldn't be a problem. I think the only parts he used from the '94 EJ22 were the valves. He's gonna look at the codes on Weds. Gratis.

p0441. wrote them down before clearing them, and they came back.

Congrats! The technical stuff, I don't know. To me, cars are like wine. I don't know how to make it, but I know what I like.

July. Model year 96. Just a few months ago you were able to purchase a 2010 model year car, even though it was manufactured in 2009. New cars are typically released late summer the year before model year. Same was true in 1995 and 1996.

It ran OK before. I hadn't put a lot of maintenance into it the last 2 years due to finances and school. Mostly just oil changes and new brakes. It burned a little oil and you could hear the lifters ticking almost all the time. And I've put 40k mile on it in less than 2 years. Mostly ride at Snow Summit and Bear Mtn. Once a year I go to Utah for pow sessions at Snowbasin and Powder Mtn. Also a big fan of Brighton.

I also picked up a cup holder, A/C controls, and E-brake handle from a 96 legacy wagon A/T at ecology auto wrecking. Finally have fully functioning climate control and firm cupholders. The e-brake handle, however, does not latch very easily. I think the spring that pushes the release button out, as well as ratchet to the teeth, is gunked up. It works after some jiggling. I couldn't figure out how to crack it open to clean it. Still, better than the old one with the broken button.

mfg date of 07/95 from the bottom of the B-pillar. Throwing codes p0135 and p0441. I don't believe in coincidence. Is it coincidence that I never had a CEL until after this recent work?

Yeah, that's a lot of valves. I'm seriously sleep deprived. All but 2 valves were reported to be bent. I didn't get hosed on the head job and my car is running well now, so I take their word now. At least it's done. VIN is 4s3bg4853t6370419 When I pulled the brake line off the caliper, something that looked like a mixture of rusty water and egg drop soup poured out ad the piston wouldn't budge. So I went ahead with bleeding the brakes and installing the new caliper. Gonna take the dog for a hike then pull engine codes again.

Update: Got my car back yesterday. My mechanic pulled my original heads and sent them to an engine builder. They said 30 of 32 valves were bent. Replaced those with valves off the EJ22 from ecology auto wrecking. New top end. New radiator. So now my brakes are locking up and it's throwing CEL codes. Replaced the passenger rear caliper that froze, now a front caliper is doing pretty much the same thing. Also, I bled the brakes. Still got a caliper to lock up on me this morning. One of the CEL's is for the pre-cat O2 sensor, p0135 i think. I'll post more info tomorrow when I'm home tinkering on my car. Other than the brakes, my car is running beautifully. Can the o2 sensor be cleaned, or does it need replacing? Anyhow, I'm closer to having my baby back in fine running form. Thanks for the input, fellas. Keep it coming.

I'm a big fan of using Lucas oil additive with my gear oil. And engine oil for that matter. I run 20% Lucas Additive in the engine and 50% in the 5sp tranny and differential. It's pricey but I've had good experiences in many different cars.

I think you guys were right. Maybe the motor was shot, maybe not. But I do need to find a new mechanic regardless. He's had my car for a week and the new (to me) motor since saturday and has done NOTHING. FML, Jeff

I'll post pictures andstories of my rebuild. and the VIN. I understand there were some differences in the early and late model year.

I stopped by the mechanic today and he was using the marks, not the arrows, to line up the timing belt. It's legit. It never did put off any engine codes either. Just pulled an EJ22 off a 1994 legacy sedan. Gonna put that in so I have wheels for a while. Meanwhile I'm going to do a proper rebuild on my original motor. This could shape up into an interesting project. If you guys have recommendations on performance upgrades, up to turbo, I wouldn't mind hearing about that.

Hypothetically, any compatibility issues using the engine out of a 1994 Legacy Sedan? It's from an AT car, which I would leave behind in favor of my current 5sp. Old computer or new? Thanks in advance.

Awesome feedback. Gives me much better questions to ask. Looks like the timing marks found in those pdf's are TDC. The mechanic says there is zero compression in a couple of cylinders. My brother was on the phone with him so I don't know which cylinders.

Update: New timing belt and it still won't start. Now I'm looking at a replacement motor in the $400-$700 range, and swapping in some recently purchased parts. Crap. :-\